Aurora James says Sephora is the first major brand to sign her pledge asking retailers to commit 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses
- On May 29, fashion designer Aurora James started a pledge asking major retailers to commit 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses.
- James initially called out Target, Whole Foods, Net-a-Porter, Home Depot, Sephora, Barnes & Nobles, and Saks Fifth Avenue.
- James told Insider that out of all the major brands she initially called out, Sephora is the only one that has announced it's taking the pledge.
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Many retailers have shown their support for the Black Lives Matter movement through donations and messages of solidarity shared on social media, but to Aurora James, the founder of Brother Vellies, that is simply not enough.
Seeing those posts on social media is exactly what sparked James to start the 15% Pledge, which asks major retailers like Target, Whole Foods, Net-a-Porter, Home Depot, Sephora, Barnes & Nobles, and Saks Fifth Avenue to commit 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses.
"I saw so many brands posting solidarity messages, but what does that even mean?" James told Insider via email. "How are they supporting the Black community? This is why we are asking them to support in a real way that puts money back into the community for economic equality."
James first announced the 15% Pledge on social media
"So many of your businesses are built on Black spending power," she wrote in an Instagram post shared on May 29. "So many of your stores are set up in Black communities. So many of your sponsored posts are seen on Black feeds. This is the least you can do for us. We represent 15% of the population and we need to represent 15% of your shelf space."
Speaking to Insider, James said she is asking these companies to invest in the future of the Black community, as many of them count on that same community of people to spend money at their stores.
"If they value our money, then value us as well and show us that we are represented," she said. "We're hoping they will all take the pledge."
James says Sephora is the first major retailer to take the 15% Pledge
James called out multiple large brands when she announced the pledge, but so far she's only heard from one: Sephora.
"Silence is deafening," James said. "We have heard from one, which is very very telling."
It was announced on Wednesday that the makeup retailer will stock 15% of its shelves with products from Black-owned businesses.
"We were inspired to take the 15% Pledge because we believe it's the right thing to do, for our clients, our industry, and for our community," Artemis Patrick, executive vice president and chief merchandising officer of Sephora, said in a statement shared with Insider.
Patrick added: "Ultimately, this commitment is about more than the prestige products on our shelves, it starts with a long-term plan diversifying our supply chain and building a system that creates a better platform for Black-owned brands to grow while ensuring Black voices help shape our industry. We recognize we can do better and this pledge builds on our ongoing work to use our resources to drive meaningful and long-term change for Sephora and our industry."
Although she's hasn't heard from all of the big retailers she called out, James said other brands have reached out to take the pledge
The skin-care service brand, HeyDay, and the clothing rental service, Rent the Runway, have both committed to the pledge. Clothing and jewelry brands like Rebecca Minkoff, Lizzie Fortunato, and Lingua Franca have also signed a petition asking retailers to step up and fill 15% of their shelves with products from Black-owned businesses.
"It also goes back to long-term accountability, which is why we are inviting these bigger companies to get in touch so that we can work on what an accountability structure looks like, as well as use this as discovery to figure out in what way makes the most sense for them to take the pledge," James said. "15% is a great metric that they can use as a minimum of compliance."
James offered a 3-step plan for how retailers can approach changing the landscape of their stores
Step one is to "take stock of the percentage of businesses, shelf-space, and contracts given to black-owned businesses and suppliers at present."
Step two, according to a post shared to the 15% Pledge Instagram account, is to "take ownership of your findings, thoroughly interrogating how existing blind spots and biases within your company and society at large have led to the disparities—and what concrete steps you can take to address them."
"Publish your findings internally and externally, and use them to inform a brand new vision for 'business as usual,'" the post says.
And finally, step three is to take action.
To do so, brands should "define and publish a plan for growing the share of Black businesses you empower to at least 15%, alongside a concrete strategy by which you plan to stay accountable to and transparent around your commitment."
In addition to sharing her plan, James wants to see more people get involved by actively calling out brands on social media that need to change. The designer is asking her followers to count how many Black-owned brands retailers are currently selling.
"We would love them to share the information we post and tag the retailers they are looking to put pressure on," she said.
The struggle of trying to get your brand out there, especially as a Black entrepreneur, is one that James knows all too well
In 2013, James founded Brother Vellies with $3,500 in her pocket and has since sold millions of dollars worth of products in seven years.
Starting the 15% Pledge is something that is deeply personal to her because it could change the landscape of the retail world.
"The response from supporters has been overwhelming," James said. "We would love it if every individual who supports the Pledge could help to spread the message within their networks as well."
Representatives for Target, Whole Foods, Net-a-Porter, Home Depot, Sephora, Barnes & Nobles, and Saks Fifth Avenue did not immediately respond to Insider's request for comment.
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