At BobDog Wines, a hands-on experience

"Normally, we would be knee high in bright green ground cover and mustard," said co-owner and winemaker Tim Ward, as he hiked with a visitor up a steep path through the vines. A self-titled cellar rat and dirt farmer (according to his business card), he's seen - and survived - a lot since he and his wife, Kandy Ward, purchased the 40-acre estate in 1989 and established it to Bordeaux varieties. Skins and seeds are composted and recycled into the ground for nutrition, grape stems are scattered to help control erosion, wastewater is cleaned and used for irrigation, and Cabernet the winery dog keeps the wild turkeys at bay. During harvest, guests can also pick grapes, watch the crush and test sugar levels by squishing grapes in baggies and gauging the liquid in a refractometer. After the tour, guests gather in the small tasting room that also does duty as a barrel room, office, storage space and tiny gift shop, to taste with Kandy at a plank table. With just 700 cases produced each year, bottlings are only sold at the winery. Since the Wards sell most of their grapes to high-end local wineries, they try not to market themselves too seriously with their own brand.