Expanded Outerlands’ next wave more mature, but a bit muddled

Just as the restaurant was closing for the expansion came the word that chef Brett Cooper, who was integral in putting this Outer Sunset establishment in the culinary spotlight, was leaving.

There’s a generosity and boldness on the plate that’s befitting the restaurant’s nearly always cool, foggy environment where stocking caps and dock jackets are appropriate 12 months of the year.

The new chefs have created one of the most memorable dishes in recent memory: clam stew ($25).

At the edge of the shallow bowl is fry bread made from the same levain that helped the restaurant gain its fame.

A close second is the mushroom soup ($9) with lentils, squash and kale, which is equally good at chasing the chill.

Driftwood planks cover the walls, the back of the banquettes and the gently scalloped ceiling, butting up to a white cutout over the kitchen that resembles surf reaching sand.

Two wooden chandeliers hang from the ceiling; a driftwood stick sculpture at the rear of the open stainless-steel kitchen looks like a vortex.

Patrons who can nab a reservation or score one of the non-reserved seats can also taste the freshness and care in each item, starting with the whipped butter with house-made bread ($5).

The toasted bread is served with her Tomme and Nocturne cheeses ($15) along with lavender honey and house-made Hachiya persimmon jam.

On another visit, the kitchen produced a memorable carrot Bolognese ($16) where the sweet vegetables played against black garlic, basil, rye bread crumbs and a generous dusting of Parmesan.

A similar robust style also emerges on the Point Reyes Miyagi oysters ($14) bathed in citrus with a hit of turmeric and rings of pickled peppers.

The chefs feature four main courses, including the clam stew that was on the menu on all visits with slight variations.

Lamb breast ($26) also speaks of winter, the square of rich meat enhanced with coffee, celery root, apple, rutabaga, almonds and chicory.

Pork loin ($26) includes cabbage, coriander and the surprise additions of sunflower seeds and watercress pesto, which bring a needed contrast to the other ingredients.

An excellent appetizer of legumes on cannellini bean puree ($8) was replaced by what looked like gruel — grain salad ($11) with sprouted wheat berries, quinoa, beets and cucumbers, reminiscent of a warm tabbouleh salad.

Previous visits’ pork loin was dropped this night in favor of a large square of pork belly ($26) that was tough and stringy, set in the center of a plate cluttered with curly endive, potatoes, bagna cauda, carrots and mandarins.

The coffee trick used on the lamb breast here added heft to a rustic duck leg ($24) with savoy cabbage and citrus.