Contemporary classic Arguello

For one thing, it’s nonsense that having a certain ethnic heritage makes you inherently better at producing the cuisine.

[...] Des Jardins’ mother and grandparents are Mexican, and she grew up with the cuisine.

If the food is good, it’s not just because of ethnic background; it’s because the chef has the passion, reverence and integrity to make it, regardless of the style.

Arguello offers classic preparations with a modern sensibility — an uncharacteristically short menu for this style of cuisine, for example, with only eight appetizers and four main plates.

There’s a rustic elegance in the wood-beamed ceiling, the tile floor and the circular iron chandeliers that speaks to the building’s history.

The 56-seat dining room is separated from the lounge and open kitchen by a shoulder-high partition.

The menu includes an excellent guacamole ($6.50) with warm, salty chips that shatter in layers with each bite, and spicy pumpkin seeds ($2) that go with the extensive Tequila and cocktail list.

The smaller plates include an excellent albondigas soup ($9) with meatballs, potato, crunchy tortilla strips and an intense chicken broth with a touch of heat, unleashed in layers.

Crisp chicken taquitos ($11) look similar to those found in grocers’ freezers, but the chicken filling is fresh, as is the avocado and tomatillo salsa and the bed of shredded iceberg lettuce.

Ingredients are noticeably pristine, as shown in the salad with cold crunchy escarole ($13) with roasted squash, queso fresco and a cumin-pumpkin seed vinaigrette.

There’s also a salad of Little Gems ($9) with radishes, cilantro and cotija cheese; and a stellar reinvention of a classic combination: jicama sticks with citrus and avocado in a nicely piquant dressing ($13).

The quality also shows on the mushroom quesadilla ($10.50) with a pleasing medicinal touch from epazote and a tender golden crust.

A stack of thick triangles of seared meat are complemented by chayote, slightly crunchy pickled vegetables and sauce estofada, a complex mole with tomato, capers, olives and a hint of sweetness.

The four larger plates include a vegetarian option with roasted squash, poblanos and patties of queso fresco boldly enhanced with epazote, cilantro and onions ($12).

Two desserts ($4) offer a soothing respite: a creamy, palate-coating caramel flan, and rice pudding with just the right amount of sweetness, pierced with rum-soaked raisins.

On one visit, we arrived a few minutes before our third dining companion, and even though only a few tables were occupied, the host had a somewhat haughty attitude and refused to seat us until everyone was there.

[...] the bar is welcoming and the bartenders stir up a good margarita ($10) with Pueblo Viejo Blanco Tequila, fresh lime and agave; and El Presidio ($11) with Partida Blanco Tequila, grapefruit, angostura bitters and soda water.