Al’s Place puts vegetables front and center
Talk to any environmentalist or health expert and they’ll agree that vegetables should move to the center of the plate.
Sides also include a poached egg ($3) and fish mullet with preserved lime and garlic dip ($6).
Even on the regular menu — four to six “snackles” ($6), four cold dishes and four hot offerings — meat or fish are accents.
Rainbow trout chile verde ($16) is dominated by mild peppers with a scattering of minced seafood on top.
On one visit, the only other dish with eyes, if you don’t count potatoes, was lightly cured trout ($16) with the thin slices draped over three mounds of crispy potatoes arranged around a sudachi, or citrus, mousse.
Eyes or not, one of the highlights is the french fries ($6) with smoked apple sauce standing in for ketchup.
The chef makes his own vadouvan spices that coat the almonds ($6) in the snack section.
On one visit he offered chickpeas with a classic romesco sauce; another time quince stood in for the peppers.
London is also not afraid to present pristine vegetables in the raw, such as a pile of Blue Dane radishes ($6) with their green leaves still attached.
In many cases he takes vegetables to a new level of excitement; the protein, while integral, is often secondary.
Thin slices of cod with black lime and chunks of grapefruit ($17) become an island of contrasting textures when the waiter pours on roasted sunchoke curry.
Many dishes are just on the edge of being too acidic, yet he reins them in by pairing them with creamy textures, making them more interesting.
Grits ($16) became the platform for quenelles of soft goat milk curd, his version of salsa negra and whatever vegetable is in season: fennel on one visit, peas and hedgehog mushrooms on another.
London works in an open kitchen in back surrounded by a dining counter, but he often delivers the food, and it’s clear he oversees the entire operation.
White subway tile wainscoting is separated from the white scarred walls by a strip of light wood; the plastic and metal chairs add a modern touch as do the plywood tables.
The ceiling is outfitted with fabric panels to help squelch the noise — finally restaurant owners are beginning to think about sound levels — and lights and sconces with black metal shades lend a uniform feel.