Training your dog to be comfortable inside a crate has all kinds of benefits. Crating a puppy or adolescent dog provides a level of behavior management that a simple baby gate can't. Because dogs don't like to lie in their own accidents, a crate that is only large enough for them to comfortably lie down, turn around, and stand up can help to move your house-training along smoothly.
Crates can also prevent your dog from playing out their destructive fantasies and chomping on tasty forbidden items like shoes and garbage cans. For puppies and older dogs, alike, crates and pet carriers are valuable for safe travel on the ground, in the air, and in dangerous emergency situations.
As a certified professional dog trainer with almost a decade of experience, here's how I crate train a dog:
How to select the right crate
Chewy
If you're introducing your dog to a crate for housebreaking or to curb destructive puppy behaviors, the ideal crate is one with an adjustable panel that can be shifted as your dog grows, like the MidWest Life Stages Crate. If you want a crate that blends in with your home decor, there are more attractive options, like the Casual Home Wooden Dog Crate.
Even though the term "crate" suggests a hard-shelled box, soft-sided carriers count as crates, too. If you expect to fly with your pup and they're small enough to fit under the seat, these flexible crates work best. Ideally, you want something like Mr. Peanut's Airline Approved Soft-Sided Pet Carrier, a TSA-approved carrier that has some mesh paneling for your pup to see out of, but not so much that the crate won't feel like a dark, cozy den.
If your dog is over 20 pounds, you will need a plastic crate like the Petmate Compass Plastic Kennel, which has been approved for use in the cargo hold. Both versions can be used in the car (secured with a tether or seatbelt in the backseat or rear) and in emergency situations.
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How to set up a dog crate
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When you first introduce your dog to a crate, you want them to feel that, despite being inside a confinement space, they remain part of the family. This means finding a spot inside the home where they'll have a good view without being in the way. Think of the interior of the crate as your dog's private bedroom and fill it with soft bedding, toys, and other essentials. The more inviting, the more likely your dog will want to spend time inside.
Place the crate in a high-traffic area like the kitchen or living room where family is regularly hanging out.
Some dogs take to a crate instantly. Others are suspicious or even downright scared.
At mealtimes, place the food bowl inside of the crate with the door open.
Between meals, regularly place a bully stick, pig's ear, marrow bone, or filled Kong inside the crate with the door open.
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How to move on to closing the crate door
Petman
For some dogs, just taking the introductory steps will be enough to convince them that the crate isn't just safe, it's a tiny, snuggly home all their own. If you find your dog going into the crate willingly, especially when no food is present, or staying there after the food is gone, you know you're on the right track. Now all you need to do is graduate to closing the door.
Begin by closing the door only when your dog is eating inside the crate. Open the door when they have finished the food.
Slowly increase the length of time your dog is closed inside the crate after the food or chewie is gone. For dogs that are settling into the crate easily, there's no real rule here, just don't move too quickly. Try increasing the period of time your dog stays inside the crate by 5 to 10 minutes every couple of days.
If your dog begins to bark and whine, you may have moved too fast. Try taking a step back and slowing down. If your dog is vocalizing, wait for a break in the noise before you return to the crate so you don't accidentally teach them that barking brings you running.
Never put your dog inside of the crate for longer than three hours during the day. Using a crate overnight is fine.
How to desensitize a dog to a crate
Kong
Some dogs need more work to help them learn to be comfortable inside the crate. For suspicious or fearful pups, you'll need to bring in the big guns training-wise. One technique dog trainers depend on for helping to ease a dog's fear is called desensitization or slow exposure to a scary or unfamiliar thing. Combine that with extra special food to help your dog to continue to form positive associations with the crate.
Throw a super-delicious treat inside the crate (think: hot dog, cheese, chicken or bacon, not just your average packaged dog treat). Encourage your dog to go inside the crate to retrieve it. Let them come back out on their own. If your dog isn't willing to go into the crate at all, begin by placing a treat right at the door, then slowly move it farther back as they get more comfortable. Repeat several times.
Once your pup is able to go fully inside the crate to get the treat, begin to close the door. Throw a treat in, let your dog enter, then close the door behind them. Hold it closed for five seconds, then open the door to release them. Repeat at least five times.
Next, begin to very slowly increase the length of time the door is closed. Throw a treat in the crate. Let your dog enter and close the door behind them. Hold it closed for 10 seconds then open the door to release them. Repeat at least five times, then try increasing your time again to 15 to 20 seconds, repeating the same sequence at least five times.
Continue to increase your time in small increments. At this stage, you want to only move the dial forward seconds at a time.
For this training to be effective, you have to move at your dog's pace, not at the pace you think they should go. If your dog becomes agitated or is digging or vocalizing inside the crate while the door is closed, you have likely pushed them too far too fast. Drop back to a previous level and practice some additional repetitions. When you're ready to move on again, try increasing by a smaller increment of time.
Once your dog can be inside the closed crate for 30 seconds, begin walking away from the crate each time you close the door. Every time you walk back into the room to release them, remain neutral. You can acknowledge your pup, but don't sit down for a snuggle session or playtime.
Continue to increase your time in small increments. Once your dog is able to be inside the crate for five minutes total, try increasing your increment to one minute, then two minutes, then more, at a time. How fast you go is all relative to how much your dog is already capable of. If they can only be inside the crate for 10 seconds, adding another 10 seconds is a huge jump. If they can be inside for 10 minutes, you can likely get away with adding two to five minutes without frightening your dog.
Continue to slowly desensitize your dog until you reach the maximum three-hour time period for which they can be left alone during the day. If you plan on having your dog sleep inside the crate, go ahead and attempt that next, giving them a middle-of-the-night potty break if they are 6 months of age or younger if needed.