At Kyoto’s Imperial Hotel, a New Stay in a Historic Space

When I first traveled to Japan a dozen years ago for my honeymoon, I had been so ensorcelled by the otherworldly appearance of Tokyo that I didn’t even think to add another stop on our itinerary in the country. Of course, once you’re in the country, it’s impossible to avoid billboards and advertisements everywhere for Kyoto, which is only a little over two hours away from Japan’s capital via the Shinkansen, or bullet train. Alas, by the time I realized how much we were missing of Japanese history, culture and cuisine by not visiting, it was too late to pivot and add a stop.

But, as I am nothing if not annoyingly determined, I’ve spent the last 12 years plotting both my return to the country and, finally, a stop at this dynamic and picturesque former capital.

While Tokyo overwhelms itinerary planning with its sheer size, organizing a trip to Kyoto requires attention to detail for different reasons—namely, that nearly all of its hotel stock and range of restaurants are, bafflingly, recommended. And even if you’re only eyeing the five-star range, the options are still extensive: Aman, Four Seasons and The Ritz-Carlton all have outposts here.

But in a city with as much concentrated history as Kyoto, and especially one that’s known for its beautifully preserved temples, shrines and palaces, I wanted to book a room somewhere that was infused with a similar sense of belonging. The Imperial Hotel, Kyoto ticked the boxes for a few reasons: it’s part of the small Imperial Hotel group that’s based in Japan as opposed to part of a larger, overseas conglomerate; this specific property is housed inside the historic Yasaka Kaikan, which was once a storied performing arts hall; and finally, its location in Gion, arguably the beating heart of all of Kyoto’s historic districts.

However, reserving a hotel barely two weeks after its opening is not without its perils: what if last-minute construction delays push back reservations? What if the service hasn’t hit its stride? Thankfully, I can report that after beginning to welcome guests only on March 5, the staff at Imperial Hotel, Kyoto, were already cohesive in a way that felt as if the property had been open for decades. 

Perhaps this has to do with the long history of the building in which it’s housed, which was designated a Tangible Cultural Property in 2001 (although it had been vacant for years due to concerns about seismic activity stability). Imperial, intent on preserving as much of the striking exterior as possible while building a new construction that could withstand earthquakes, then embarked on a nearly five-year renovation, ultimately finishing with a 55-room property with five different room categories, including a set of suites that all clock in at over 1,000 square feet.

But even the non-suite rooms, which start at 600-plus square feet, are spacious, and also notable for the multiple design options available to guests. Those looking for a space more historically Japanese and not unlike what would be found in Gion’s machiya (traditional wooden houses) on the streets below, can opt for a room in the North Wing, which features tatami flooring, cherrywood planks and a clean, minimalist design. But if a more Western style is preferred (and you can also keep your shoes on in these), then those in the Main Building, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a sleek, contemporary look, fit the bill. A special perk in all rooms is the soft, oversized cotton pajamas, stocked in the dresser, available for use during your stay. I can’t say for sure that they helped me sleep better, but I was certainly cozy, if not exactly fashion-forward, in them.

The hotel’s public spaces have a similar interior design to the rooms: restrained and minimalist, but never tipping into severe. Think rattan-backed cream armchairs, with brass and stone accents on the walls and ceiling in the lobby. This area is surprisingly quiet, thanks to the security protocol that requires you to swipe your key to open the main door. Similarly, the small, but elegant, rooftop is exclusive to hotel guests, so the 24-seat bar and patio are never crowded. But the showstopper space within the hotel is actually many floors below, in the basement. Here, you’ll find a sultry, cave-like heated indoor pool; an ideal spot to unwind after a day spent exploring temples and shrines.

Apart from the historical sites, a large draw to Kyoto is the concentration and caliber of its restaurants. As such, it’s not surprising that the Imperial itself is home to multiple concepts, including Ren, a chef’s counter-style French spot, and the Old Imperial Bar, a 20-seat classic cocktail lounge. But the meal that left even this food writer amazed was the included Japanese-style breakfast, which you can have served either in your room or at Yasaka, the hotel’s sunny, all-day dining option. I suggest the former, so you can eat the veritable feast in your hotel-approved jammies. The spread is so large, it comes with a menu so you can identify each component, which includes a three-tiered box filled with everything from prawns to green beans, plus fresh-squeezed juice, miso soup, a rolled omelet and more.

Whether during a casual breakfast in your room or while enjoying the calm of the lobby, I found there was a confident elegance to this property, despite the fact that it’s brand-new. While I had my 10-year-old daughter in tow, and the staff was more than happy to accommodate her, I would instead recommend this property more for solo or couple travelers rather than families, both due to the quiet nature of the hotel and the multiple bar spaces. With a starting rate of 164,500 JPY (which, at press time, is a little over $1,000), it’s not inexpensive. But compared to the pricing for some of the aforementioned luxury chains, it’s a relative bargain in the five-star hotel space—especially for Kyoto.