Sleepy Welsh village which was once a busy port has beautiful coastal paths and cosy pubs
SINKING into the snug sofa in our cottage, Welsh tea in hand, I let out a satisfied sigh after a weekend of coastal walks, delicious food, and the best company.
My partner Emily, our sausage dog Forrest and I had spent the past couple of days exploring the rugged Pembrokeshire coastline, sampling local delicacies, and uncovering the charms of the village of Solva.
We stayed in the dog-friendly Alma Cottage, one of the many luxury retreats offered by Coastal Cottages, which has more than 500 properties across Wales.
Set in a quiet no-through lane, the beautifully converted old fishing house combined traditional stone charm with modern comforts.
The spacious living room was perfect for unwinding after our adventures, with a sprawling sofa and two armchairs that were hard to get up from due to their outrageous comfort.
Upstairs, two big bedrooms offered stunning views of the coast, while the functional shower room completed the perfect cottage experience.
Plus, we were welcomed with a thoughtful touch: a dog bowl for Forrest that made us feel right at home.
On arrival, we were delighted by a Welsh hamper worth £40, filled with local treats including Welsh cakes from Tan Y Castell Bakery, Pembrokeshire black forest jam, and lemon sherbet white chocolate.
Solva itself is a picture-postcard coastal village with a fascinating history.
Formed in a “drowned valley” by a meltwater channel, the village was once a bustling port in the 1800s, with capacity for 30 vessels.
Though the industry has faded, reminders of Solva’s past remain, such as the stone lime kilns still visible at the head of the beach.
Today, the village has a relaxed, almost sleepy feel, with as many dogs as people, making it a perfect spot for Forrest to explore.
From the Cambrian Inn, where we had a hearty lunch of fish and chips washed down with Welsh beer Butty Bach, to the Print House Café, where we enjoyed a coffee, nearly every shop, pub, and restaurant welcomed Forrest with open arms.
A bracing two-and-a-half hour walk along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path took us to St Davids, the smallest city in the UK.
You wouldn’t know it was a city until you go round a corner and find the magnificent St Davids Cathedral, home to the shrine of St David, Wales’ patron saint.
We also visited Chapel Chocolates for some indulgent award-winning treats.
The convenient £1.60 T11 bus delivered us back to Solva in just ten minutes.
Back in the village, we stopped for a couple of London Prides at The Ship, a pub where we learned about the old dividing line that once separated sailors from their captains — still seen in the notch at the bar.
Cold-water swim
Later, a burger dinner at The Hats & Barrels, paired with Welsh Double Dragon beer, was the perfect way to round off the evening, followed by a rich raspberry cheesecake.
Solva also has a touch of class, evident in its quaint shops such as Window On Wales, a three-floor treasure trove of Welsh goods.
Art lovers should not miss the Raul Speek Gallery, located in a converted chapel, showcasing vibrant paintings by the Cuban-born artist who has called Solva home since the Nineties.
If you’re after history, a visit to the Solva Woollen Mill, just a ten-minute drive away, is a must.
It’s the oldest working woollen mill in Pembrokeshire and the only one in Wales specialising in flat woven carpets, rugs, and runners.
The restored waterwheel is a charming attraction, with King Charles and Queen Camilla choosing the mill to create carpets for their Welsh home.
In the early mornings, when the tide is in, a cold-water swim in the bay is a great way to kick off the day.
Solva’s charm is at its peak during the crisp, quiet mornings when the village feels almost untouched.
We ended our weekend with a memorable lunch at Crug Glas Country House, a 12th-century farmhouse just a short drive from Solva.
The beautifully decorated hotel made us feel as though we had stepped back in time.
I indulged in a squid starter, followed by an extraordinary roast duck main course, all rounded off with a sticky toffee pudding that was the perfect sweet ending to our trip.
GO: Pembrokeshire
STAYING THERE: Coastal Cottages of Pembrokeshire has hundreds of properties sleeping two to 30 guests and a concierge team offering experiences from chefs to yoga.
A week’s stay with up to three guests at Alma Cottage in Solva is from £490.
Two pets allowed at £15 per pet per week.
Visit coastalcottages.co.uk or call 01437 765 765.
OUT & ABOUT: visitpembrokeshire.com