Creo keeps quality on menu

Owners David and Brian White -- and then-partners Andrew Plummer and Mark Burgasser -- showed their aspirations with a massive investment in the physical plant, replacing the building with 6,000 square feet of recycled materials and energy-efficient design.

Creo is proof that White Management -- which also owns Cafe Mangia in Slingerlands, Central Steak in Colonie, Bountiful Bread and Cold Stone Creamery in Stuyvesant Plaza, and Kentucky Fried Chicken, Dunkin' Donuts and Subway stores in western New York -- can commit to diverse concepts and create something that feels organic and solid.

The standard menu prep (with frequent variations as specials) is tempura-fried cod with salsa verde, chipotle creme fraiche, lettuce and tomato.

An appetizer-sized portion of fried gnocchi ($14) was ethereal, with a light, buttery herb and white wine sauce and a judicious smattering of vegetables.

The glowing wood-fired oven visible from the dining room was as delightful to behold as the crispy flatbread wild mushroom pizza ($15) it spawned.

Lime-touched creme fraiche, fried onions with Creole remoulade and sweet potatoes whipped with goat cheese made for a hearty main course.

The salmon was nicely paired with black-eyed peas and sauteed garden veggies, the halibut with potatoes, spinach and a red pepper sauce.