Wine, etc.: Taking a leap of faith to become a successful winemaker | COMMENTARY
We are always inspired by people who leave established careers to pursue the art of making wine. On one hand, it seems reckless, but on the other hand it is a gutsy leap of faith that a better life awaits you. Sometimes it does.
The reasons always vary. We know of wealthy people who just wanted friends to see their name on a label or they wanted a house overlooking a vineyard. Lofty, ego-driven goals without good business plans are doomed to fail. But, for those who give up a solid career to dedicate themselves to becoming involved in making wine, as well as making a profit, persevere through hard work and diligence.
Such is the case with Raghni Naidu, who grew up in Punjab, India. Vineyards are scarce in India, so it’s improbable she would make this a business. However, she was influenced by her mother, who had an adventurous spirit for culinary experiences from around the world.
“My mother was passionate about global cuisine,” Naidu told us in a recent phone interview. “There were so many basic things that weren’t a part of the Indian diet. She traveled and brought back seeds for vegetables she grew and shared with family and friends.”
When her brother pursued a hospitality degree in Australia, he brought home wines to share with the family and that’s where her interest in wine began.
She moved with her husband to California in 2006 and the landscape quickly changed as those memories around the family dinner table flooded back. After some travel to southern France, Naidu turned her dreams to winemaking.
In 2018 she bought nearly five acres of an existing pinot noir vineyard close to Sebastopol, California, and began to fulfill her dream with hard work and a commitment to quality. Today, Naidu wines are in a three-star Michelin restaurant and are featured in many Indian restaurants.
Her new venture wasn’t without challenge. The COVID-19 pandemic brought operations to a near standstill. Then came the Sonoma Glass Fire in 2020, when she dropped fruit instead of sacrificing quality. But she was determined.
“I wanted to build a legacy for my children by making wines that are authentic and representing who I am,” she said.
Her story as the only Indian-born female winemaker and owner has served as inspiration to other women, particularly among minorities who see her commitment as a path that can be followed.
Naidu kept the original pinot noir vines, but looked to other grapes to expand her portfolio — viognier, cabernet franc, grenache blanc and chardonnay. She purchased grapes from other producers in Sonoma and Russian River Valley. She grew production from 75 cases in 2020 to 2,000 cases this year without reducing quality.
She admitted it was a “huge risk” to start Naidu in such a competitive environment but always remained confident of success. Like a vine struggles to get through hardpan and rock, a good producer can blossom into something great under duress.
“Stress often brings out the best in people. There is likeness in life and struggle,” she said.
Here are several of her wines we enjoyed:
Naidu Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2021 ($75). Using the two original vineyard clones, the pinot noir is aged in French oak barrels for 15 months to give it some nice texture and complexity. Raspberry and cherry flavors abound with hints of dried rosemary and spice.
Naidu Catie’s Corner Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2022 ($50). This single-vineyard chardonnay gets limited malolatic fermentation to preserve the acidity and bright fruit character. Ripe melon notes highlight a food-friendly wine.
Naidu Catie’s Corner Vineyard Russian River Valley Viognier 2022 ($50). Viognier is a challenge because it more about aromatics than flavor, but this version has both. Generous aromas of stone fruit followed by tropical fruit flavors and a dash of clove.
Naidu Cassata Vineyard Sonoma Valley Cabernet Franc 2022 ($65). Cabernet franc also can be one-dimensional and commonly plays a supporting role in red blends. But in the right soil and climate, it can blossom into something special. We enjoyed the blackberry, blueberry and cassis notes.
Rhys Vineyards
We recently tasted a series of pinot noirs and chardonnays from Rhys Vineyards, an extraordinary producer sourcing grapes throughout the Santa Cruz Mountains and Mendocino County under the direction of founder Kevin Harvey.
What was remarkable in our tasting is that these wines don’t follow the over-extracted, over-oaked, over-ripe style that has been a roadmap for many California producers in the past. The chardonnays are crisp and balanced; the pinot noirs are subtle and beguiling, much like a burgundy.
Harvey immersed himself in fine wine, viticulture, enology and geology before growing pinot noir in his backyard near the border of the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1995. Eventually, he expanded his vineyard and the rest is history, as they say. Instead of buying existing vineyards, he believed it was best to plant vineyards from scratch. He planted seven small estate vineyards.
In particular, we liked the Rhys Mt. Pajaro Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountain Chardonnay 2021 ($95). The vineyard is perched at 900 feet a few miles from Monterey Bay. The proximity to ocean breezes cools the grapes at night and lets them mature more evenly. We liked the citrus and lemon meringue notes in this balanced wine.
The 2021 pinot noir from this vineyard is equally stellar with young and fresh black cherry and raspberry fruit flavors.
Rhys also draws grapes from the Anderson Valley. Its Bearwallow Vineyard Pinot Noir ($105) is an extraordinary expression of this grape variety with aging potential. Full body with red fruit and earthy character.
Although expensive, the chardonnay and pinot noirs from the Horseshoe Vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains show intensity. The chardonnay has an intriguing honeysuckle component and a full body.
Wine picks
J. Lohr Syrah Estates South Ridge Syrah 2022 ($15). You can’t beat the price of this juicy and spicy wine with cherry notes.
Goosecross A Rosé for Lucy 2023 ($39). This enjoyable Carneros rosé made from pinot noir has strawberry and raspberry notes with a bit of citrus and balanced acidity.
Tenuta Calimaia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019 ($25). From Frescobaldi, this beautiful sangiovese is worth every penny. Generous red fruit aromas with dried herbs are followed by cherry flavors with a hint of spice. Very young and lively on the palate, it is a great match with grilled foods.
Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly, syndicated wine column since 1985. See their blog at moreaboutwine.com. They can be reached at marq1948@gmail.com.