News Every Day | 02 May 2024, 18:44

Una Bakery Review: A new weekend pilgrimage has entered the chat

Newly opened up the top of Ranelagh, this high-end bakery is a great addition to Dublin’s blooming bakery scene. Operating on a refreshing level of production and efficiency, we have no doubt that it will set the tone and up the stakes for others. Get prepared to get there early cos they sell out lippy-split and be prepared to queue for whatever is left.

The Deets

Opened in March, this contemporary neighbourhood bakery is a drop-in drop-out spot, with standing room only. Serving up a great selection of pastries, cookies, focaccia and sourdough bread (€6.75) alongside Imbibe coffee and teas. Pastries were handed to us still warm, clearly fresh out of the oven, and coffee was pretty inoffensive, definitely in that light roast style that’s so beloved of Dublin’s newer cafes. They were also doing ice coffees, which set us spiralling into a dry-mouthed space of regret at our decision to get a regular coffee. The team have plans to bring in their own range of syrups which would undoubtedly go down a slurpy treat. The pastries are displayed in a paired back glass case, potentially to prevent any mauling or dribbling from customers. Punters point to whichever pastry they want and it’s grabbed straight from the bakery in the back, where pretty late in the morning the team were working hard producing more pastries (undoubtedly to keep up with the demand).

The Pastries

The pastry line-up is super interesting, while they cover their basis with the classic croissants there are some unusual entries, which you wouldn’t normally see in too many bakeries (aside from Sceal or The Morning). We opted for the Bakewell (€5.00) which was as far away from a dry stodgy tart as you are likely to get, with gorgeous lamination with a lightly-sweeten rhubarb jam insert topped with a frangipane and crème diplomat blob with freeze-dried cherry powder. Brittle pastry that shatters in your mouth like a lightbulb, combined with the wonderfully soft lightly tart rhubarb, it’s the type of pastry you’ve half-finished without even realising you were eating. We also secured the lesser-spotted kouign-amann (€4.50), which is apparently always sold out, and for good reason. This rare creature is a buttery, sugary, flaky delight, with a slightly burnt caramel delicately layered on top of the already indulgent Breton pastry, because why the hell not?

The Background

Una is the bakery baby of John & Sandy Wyer from Forest Avenue and Tom and Finn Gleeson from Bunsen, so you know the quality is guaranteed. This venture is perhaps an unsurprising one for the hospitality powerhouses, as New Yorker Sandy previously worked as a pastry chef before becoming front of house, in their spots Forest Avenue and Forest & Marcy.

The Interior

Unlike a lot of bakeries, this spot is well set up for queues and hordes of caffeine-deprived people. Service is quick and efficient if a little clinical and abrupt, but that’s no doubt due to the number of punters they need to get through. It has a polished exterior and interior, which has some of that Bunsen utilitarian sheen splashed around, with the wipe-clean shiny countertops and the products as decoration. Every inch of the place has been considered and correctly utilised. There are some feminine features dropped around too, with the light pink accents dotted around. There are no seats inside, but there is a little bench outside which is a great place to watch the hustle and bustle of Ranelagh from.

The Accessibility

Una is ground-level throughout, with low countertops and appears to be fully accessible, just the queuing system might be a little narrow for some folks but it is easily removed.