Restaurant review: Servino still serving up exquisite Italian cuisine

Servino has returned to its original home on Ark Row in Tiburon after spending more than 20 years just around the corner on the bay. Kathryn and Angelo Servino opened the original spot in 1977. Their sons, Natale and Vittorio, now operate the new location. Servino occupies the space of two adjoining little buildings. One is the Enoteca Bar and the other is the Trattoria. They are more intimate than Servino’s former location and so charming. We parked on the street and walked down the few steps to the entrances. Or you can park in the lot below and walk in, avoiding the steps. We didn’t know which of the two entrances to take, but we were soon met by a lovely woman, reminiscent of a young Emma Thompson, who guided us to our table through the entrance to the south — the Trattoria. If we’d taken the other entrance, it would have led us into the Enoteca Bar, where Italian wines and cocktails are served with small bites from 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays. The full menu is available there from 5 to 9 p.m.

The primarily Italian beverage list features seasonal cocktails, several aperitifs that can be drunk neat or with soda, beer, ciders, some zero-proof drinks and Italian wines that alternate depending on the night’s dinner menu. Overall, the prices are between $10 and $26 a glass.

We began with a glass of Bisson Vermentino ($18 a glass, $72 a bottle) from Liguria, Italy, and a glass of I Custodi Pistus Etna Rosso ($17 a glass, $68 a bottle). Both were excellent.

The herringbone wood floors, leather banquettes, cane chairs and bare walnut tables create an open, relaxed space. The walls decorated with lovely olive and citrus branches were painted by Bay Area artist Caroline Lizarraga.

The Bruschetta Di Mare ($16) was comprised of four pieces of Pullman toast — made by Petaluma’s Della Fattoria bakery — topped with burrata, a few leaves of wild arugula and a crisscross of pickled white anchovies. We were off to a good start.

Natale Servino stopped by our table to discuss the menu. Tall, composed and attentive, he explained the menu was divided into thirds. One third remains consistent, such as a few of their pastas. One third is dictated by the season, such as the asparagus on that night’s menu, and the last third changes weekly and that night it was the local halibut that was seasonal but availability for it is on and off.

The Barbabietole Di Asparagi ($17) arrived in all its glistening glory. Chunks of both red and pink beets were tossed with pieces of asparagus, some fresh goat cheese and hazelnuts. There is a purity about the food at Servino. There’s a balance of flavors and quantity. There’s no pretention.

Another antipasti item was the Polpetine In Camicia ($16). Four two-bite-size beef meatballs were wrapped in savoy cabbage leaves and poached. Served in the juices, the meatballs were moist, firm and full of flavor. So many cuisines around the world feature variations of this — and for good reason. It’s delicious.

The primi menu offered the Gnocchi Di Spinaci ($24), which we ordered, six fresh pastas and one made with Torchio dry pasta ($25). We also ordered the Fettuccine Gamberi ($27).

The dimpled, sage green gnocchi were tossed with sugar peas, spring onions, Gorgonzola cheese and little squares of guanciale. The combination of the fresh spring flavors mixed with the deeper flavors of the meat and cheese was an accurate reflection of this transition time our Bay Area weather has been experiencing: a little bit of winter hanging on to the skirt tales of spring.

The Fettuccine Gamberi noodles were enticingly coated with ‘Nduja, a spreadable salami, and tossed with morsels of Pacific shrimp and chard. There’s lots of flavor in this dish with three distinct textures of the shrimp, chard and pasta.

That night’s special was Local Halibut in Crazy Water, Pesce all’Acqua Pazza. Is it called crazy since the sauce is just water and tomatoes and tastes so incredible? How do they do it? I was a little surprised it was a featured item since we’re not in tomato season yet. The top of the piece of halibut had been seared and then poached in the thin but extremely flavorful tomato water broth with a hint of chili and some fresh herbs including thyme. Garnished with a bundle of greens and a couple of cherry tomatoes, this dish was a perfect example of the delicious simplicity of Italian food.

The contorni, vegetable side dishes, on the menu, like the Cannellini Al Balsamico, white beans with celery, red onions and balsamic, ($10) and Brussels Sprouts with speck prosciutto and Parmesan ($11) could make a light or full meal.

All the desserts are house-made, including the Panna Cotta ($8), but we wanted to end with some crunch so we ordered the Cookie Plate ($8). Four biscotti half-dipped in chocolate begged for a glass of Vin Santo or amaro.

Servino is back home!

Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at ijfoodwalker@gmail.com.

Servino

Address: 114 and 116 Main St., Tiburon

Phone: 415-435-2676

Website: servino.com

Cuisine: Italian

Noise level: Moderate to loud

Seating: Bar stools and tables in the Enoteca Bar; tables outside and booths and tables in the Trattoria

Liquor selection: Full

Gluten-free selections: Yes

Vegetarian selections: Yes

Vegan selections: Yes

Dog friendly: Outside

Reservations: resy.com

Parking: On Main Street and in the lot behind

Hours: The Enoteca Bar is open from 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays and the Trattoria is open from 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays; full menu is available to seated guests in all areas during dinner service hours

Prices: $8 to $49

Summary: Servino offers a great place for a drink and some bites or a full meal.