A lemony salad that embraces the flavors of spring

Bulgur, common today in Middle Eastern cuisines, is believed to have been eaten in ancient Greece and is even mentioned in the Old Testament. It’s not actually a grain but a wheat berry that has been parboiled, dried and then cracked.

It’s often mistaken for couscous, which is also not a grain but a small ball-shaped pasta. Most of us would recognize bulgur’s nutty flavor in tabbouleh — a popular summer salad made with bulgur, tossed together with cucumbers, tomatoes and mint. If you make your own tabbouleh, you probably know that the process involves covering bulgur in water and lemon juice and letting it macerate for about an hour until it drinks up the liquid and softens. An even faster way to eat bulgur is to steam it in water or broth. Unlike many other members of the wheat family (farro and wheat berries to name two), bulgur is a fast food to cook.

Abra Berens, the author of “Grist: A Practical Guide to Cooking Grains, Beans, Seeds, and Legumes,” says of bulgur, “While technically a processed food, because the bran and germ are left intact, it is still a whole grain. It’s the most convenient food of the whole grain world.”

Now on to my favorite spring vegetable — asparagus.

The word asparagus comes from the Latin word Asparagus officinalis, meaning a plant with medicinal uses. Consisting of 93% water, asparagus also contains potassium, which is good for your heart and bones, asparagine, an amino acid, and an array of vitamins and minerals — though it’s probably not as good for you if you cover it in hollandaise sauce.

Initially grown in North Africa and Asia, asparagus was brought to the United States from France in the 1600s. It wasn’t grown commercially until the mid-1800s.There is high demand for asparagus not only because it’s delicious and good for you, but it has a short season, running from mid-April until the end of June. Maybe that’s why this popular spring vegetable fetches a considerable price.

This recipe is adapted from the recently revised “Essential New York Times Cookbook” by Amanda Hesser. The original recipe calls for preserved lemons. I substituted that with the versatile New York Shuk’s Preserved Lemon Paste that I bought at Whole Foods, also available online. When mixed with olive oil, this paste can add lots of umami flavor to a marinade or a dressing or as a topping for grilled vegetables — the choices are vast. I urge you not to skip toasting the bulgur because it gives the dish an extra nutty flavor and only takes an extra couple of minutes.

Claudia Alexander, a resident of Marin County, has been happily cooking for family and friends for more than three decades. She has a weekly blog, sweetbynurture.com. You can contact her at sweetbynurture@gmail.com.

Recipe

Asparagus and Bulgur Wheat with Preserved Lemon Paste Dressing

Serves 4 as a side dish

Ingredients

½ pound asparagus

½ teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/3 cup small diced red onion

1 cup bulgur wheat

2 cups water

Zest of ½ lemon

2 tablespoons parsley

Dressing

6 tablespoons olive oil

2 level tablespoons Preserved Lemon Paste

Directions

Over medium heat, bring 1 quart of water and ½ teaspoon of kosher salt to a boil. Fill a medium bowl with cold water and ice, and then set aside.

Prepare the asparagus by snaping the woody ends off the stalks and cutting them into ½-inch slices on the diagonal. Add to the boiling water and cook for three minutes; don’t overcook the asparagus, you want it with a bit of tooth. Using a spider strainer, scoop out the cooked asparagus and toss it into the ice bath to immediately stop the cooking. Place onto a kitchen towel to dry.

Next, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to a sauté pan. Over medium heat, toss the red onion to coat it with the oil and then add the bulgur wheat. Toast the wheat by shaking the pan for four minutes until fragrant. Slowly add 2 cups of water, then cover and steam for 14 minutes on medium heat, or until all the liquid has evaporated.

While the bulgur is steaming, make the salad dressing by placing the oil and lemon paste into a jar with a tightly fastened lid. Give it a vigorous shake.

When the bulgur is cooked, spoon it into a medium bowl and add ½ the dressing, toss to combine, taste and adjust if you want more dressing or salt. Add the asparagus, parsley, lemon zest and taste again. Bring the jar of the leftover dressing to the table in case anyone wants more.

This salad can be eaten warm or at room temperature.

— Adapted from “The Essential New York Times Cookbook” by Amanda Hesser