The best skin care routine for your 50s, according to dermatologists

I've been writing about skin care for nearly a decade, and while the anti-aging trends come and go, the advice I hear from the experts stays the same: Hydrate, wear sunscreen and target problem areas at the first sign. But even if their advice is solid, most women don't begin to notice the more dramatic signs of aging until perimenopause, when hormonal changes begin to take hold both inside and out.

Your 50s can be an especially complex time in your life, especially if you're experiencing menopause and all of the hormonal, mental, emotional and physical baggage that comes along with it. It's also the decade where much of your lived life begins to show up on your face, especially thanks to the plethora of changes going on below the surface of your skin. "The rapid drop in estrogen that occurs during perimenopause is a significant contributor to skin aging," said Dr. Hadley King, dermatologist and clinical instructor of Dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University. "This leads to reduced hydration and compromised barrier function, loss of elasticity and resiliency." 

The good news? You still have time to begin targeting those early signs of aging in your 50s when you first spot them, unlike in your 60s when it's often too late to reverse any of those signs of aging. Whether you're noticing new dark spots or more pronounced wrinkles and sagging skin, all of the hormonal changes you're going through could mean that your skin care routine needs an overhaul to tackle your skin's new normal.

To help you find the best products for your lifestyle and budget, I spoke with eight dermatologists and skin care experts about how menopause affects the skin, what ingredients are best for aging skin and how to build a skin care routine that actually works for your needs. There's a lot to dig into, so we'll jump right in.

In this article: Face Wash | Toners | Serums & Treatments | Retinoids | Eye Creams | Moisturizers | SPF | Chemical Exfoliators | Skin Care Devices

How does your skin change in your 50s? 

Menopause has a huge impact on your body. Not only are hormonal changes impacting you from the inside, but your skin is undergoing profound changes as well. 

"Oh man, it really changes," said Dr. Ashley Magovern of Manhattan Dermatology and resident dermatologist for Dermstore. "In particular, estrogen decreases, which causes a decrease in oil production and leads to skin dullness and dryness, which leads to texture changes and the loss of that 'glow,'" she said. "I’ve found that even using lights, lasers, skincare products, it becomes harder and harder to restore that glow without that estrogen."

The loss in estrogen due to menopause causes decreased skin elasticity, hydration, oil production, collagen production and even thickness. As skin thins, the fat pads within the face also diminish, which can highlight wrinkles, accentuate sagging skin and lead to a "hollowed look," according to Dr. Ahmad Chaudhry, dermatologist at Scandinavian Biolabs. If that wasn't enough, all of these hormonal changes can even trigger increased melanin production during menopause, which causes dark spots and blotchiness.

All of these changes can mean that the products and skin care routine that you might've stood behind for years may no longer work for you as you enter your 50s and beyond.

"Reevaluating your skin care in your 50s is all about adapting to your skin's evolving needs, ensuring that it stays healthy, protected and nourished," said Lindsay Holdorf, resident esthetician at Dermstore. "These changes mean that skin care products and routines that worked well in earlier decades might no longer be as effective."

What changes should you make to your skin care routine in your 50s?

All of the experts we spoke with agreed that transitioning your skin care routine for your 50s is all about hydration and investing in target treatments for your changing skin's specific needs. Swapping to hydrating cleansers, using moisture-boosting serums, and investing in stronger anti-aging ingredients like retinoids, niacinamides and ceramides should become a priority.

"As skin concerns become more pronounced, it's essential to incorporate targeted treatments to address issues such as loss of firmness, hyperpigmentation and dryness," said Dr. T. N. Rekha Singh, dermatologist at Oliva Skin and Hair Clinic.

Another important change to think about? Paying more attention to your nighttime routine generally. "I know we are all tired at night and sometimes find excuses to skip the nighttime routine, but it becomes even more important as you age," Dr. Magovern said. "Our skin regenerates, restores and repairs itself at night, so giving it all the nutrients it needs is critical."

What skin care ingredients should you look for in your 50s?

• Hyaluronic acid: A hydrating and plumping ingredient that draws in moisture and prevents moisture loss

• Retinoids: Potent anti-aging ingredients that increase cell turnover, boost collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and age spots

• Peptides: AKA amino acids that support proteins in the skin like collagen and elastin, which are needed for firmness and elasticity

• Niacinamide: AKA vitamin B3, which improves skin's elasticity, increases barrier function and tackles hyperpigmentation

• Ceramides: Lipid molecules that strengthen the skin’s barrier and prevent moisture loss

• AHAs: Chemical exfoliants, typically made of lactic acids or glycolic acids, that gently slough away dead skin and encourage new cell turnover for improved tone and texture

• BHAs: Chemical exfoliants, typically salicylic acid, that gently slough away dead skin and encourage new cell turnover for improved tone and texture

• Antioxidants: Vitamins C, E and ferulic acid, among others, that aid in protecting the skin from environmental damage, brighten skin and promote collagen production

• SPF: Sun protection, arguably the most important ingredient in your skin care routine to prevent the noticeable signs of aging such as wrinkles, fine lines and discoloration

Fortunately, there are several proven powerhouse ingredients — and products! — that dermatologists and skin care experts agree should be part of your arsenal as you build an anti-aging skin care routine. Take a look at their recommendations below.

Face Wash & Cleansers

Toners

Serums & Treatments

Retinoids 

Eye Creams

Moisturizers

SPF

Gentle Chemical Exfoliators

Skin Care Devices

Sources:

• Dr. Hadley King, dermatologist and clinical instructor of dermatology at Cornell University

• Dr. Anna Chacon, M.D. and dermatologist in Miami

• Lindsay Holdorf, resident esthetician, Dermstore

• Dr. T. N. Rekha Singh, dermatologist at Oliva Skin and Hair Clinic

• Dr. Ahmad Chaudhry, dermatologist at Scandinavian Biolabs

• Dr. Simran Sethi, dermatologist and founder of skin By Dr. Simran Sethi

• Dr. Ashley Magovern of Manhattan Dermatology 

• Dr. Joshua Zeichner of Zeichner Dermatology in New York City