Big surf roared into Southern California on Thursday as a winter swell built up through the day, which is expected to stick around through Friday.
And another new swell is expected to arrive right behind it on Saturday with even bigger waves anticipated, creating hazardous conditions throughout the weekend, but a thrilling end for expert surfers enjoying the last waves of 2023.
A bodyboarder looks on as a large wave crashes on shore in Seal Beach on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast.(Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
A surfer rides a large wave near the Huntington Beach Pier in Huntington Beach on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast. (Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
A surfer jumps off his board while riding a large wave in Seal Beach on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast.(Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
A bodyboarder rides inside a large wave in Seal Beach on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast.(Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Large waves hit the bottom of the Huntington Beach Pier in Huntington Beach on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast. (Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
A bodyboarder rides a large wave in Seal Beach on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast.(Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Bodyboarders share a large wave in Seal Beach on Thursday morning, Dec. 28, 2023. Along with the big waves, high early morning tides moved water into low lying areas along the coast.(Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Los Angeles area coastlines are beginning to get hit with high surf. Lunda Bay in Palos Verdes Estates drew both surf watchers and surfers Thursday morning Dec. 28,2023. (Contributing photographer Chuck Bennett)
Los Angeles area coastlines are beginning to get hit with high surf. Lunda Bay in Palos Verdes Estates drew both surf watchers and surfers Thursday morning Dec. 28,2023. (Contributing photographer Chuck Bennett)
Los Angeles area coastlines are beginning to get hit with high surf. Lunda Bay in Palos Verdes Estates drew both surf watchers and surfers Thursday morning Dec. 28,2023. (Contributing photographer Chuck Bennett)
Los Angeles area coastlines are beginning to get hit with high surf. Lunda Bay in Palos Verdes Estates drew both surf watchers and surfers Thursday morning Dec. 28,2023. (Contributing photographer Chuck Bennett)
Los Angeles area coastlines are beginning to get hit with high surf. Lunda Bay in Palos Verdes Estates drew both surf watchers and surfers Thursday morning Dec. 28,2023. (Contributing photographer Chuck Bennett)
Los Angeles area coastlines are beginning to get hit with high surf. Lunda Bay in Palos Verdes Estates drew both surf watchers and surfers Thursday morning Dec. 28,2023. (Contributing photographer Chuck Bennett)
Los Angeles area coastlines are beginning to get hit with high surf. Lunda Bay in Palos Verdes Estates drew both surf watchers and surfers Thursday morning Dec. 28,2023. (Contributing photographer Chuck Bennett)
Los Angeles area coastlines are beginning to get hit with high surf. Lunda Bay in Palos Verdes Estates drew both surf watchers and surfers Thursday morning Dec. 28,2023. (Contributing photographer Chuck Bennett)
Los Angeles area coastlines are beginning to get hit with high surf. Lunda Bay in Palos Verdes Estates drew both surf watchers and surfers Thursday morning Dec. 28,2023. (Contributing photographer Chuck Bennett)
Surfers flocked to beaches from San Diego to Seal Beach to the South Bay on Thursday; in some areas the punchy, strong surf reached upward 10 feet. By Saturday, waves could be in the 15- to 18-foot range in some areas, such as Huntington Beach.
In Northern California, even larger waves were slamming the coast, with big-wave surfers flocking to the famed Mavericks surf break near Santa Cruz.
Novices be warned: This isn’t the time to try out the new surfboard you got for Christmas.
Despite morning high tides, the waves were not yet big enough in the early hours Thursday to cause flooding damage in low-lying areas, but officials are on standby throughout the weekend.
Beach cities have built up sand berms as reinforcements against the battering waves to try to safeguard structures, streets and parking lots. Lifeguards up and down the coast also beefed up their staffing, calling in seasonal guards, knowing many people were still visiting or on holiday break.
“We’ve been tracking the swell, we’ll have a four-day, XXL swell period,” Huntington Beach Marine Safety Battalion Chief Trevor McDonald said.
“We’re letting surfers, bodyboarders and swimmers know it’s experts only – and even then we like them to check with lifeguards,” he said.
Guards were working hard through the morning Thursday warning people of hazards and taking preventative steps to keep people safe before they hit the water, McDonald said. In addition to big waves, strong currents were sweeping people down the beach.
“Lifeguards want people to have a great time at the beach, but the No. 1 priority is safety,” McDonald said.
In South Redondo Beach, dozens of wave watchers and photographers stood along the esplanade early Thursday as a handful of surfers battled nature.
One of those surfers — the only one in his set to stand up to a massive wave — wound up wiping out with the swell cracking his board in two.
Further south, at RAT beach, the access mat that helps those with wheelchairs get across the sand and closer to the water was buckled from the high tides.
Mark Herman, Newport Beach’s lifeguard captain, said crowds came out to ride waves north of the pier and between jetties in West Newport, where waves were in the 6- to 8-foot range by the afternoon.
He warned that in addition to big waves, strong currents were pulling laterally, so surfers and swimmers should watch nearby rock structures.
There’s also a danger of being knocked off of rock jetties and beachgoers should also stay clear of caves where they can get trapped.