Vendors burdened by rising costs as Chicago farmers market season ramps up

A rainy and nippy morning did not deter Chicagoans from kicking off farmers market season at Green City Market Lincoln Park on Saturday.

Dozens of loyal customers — and some James Beard-nominated chefs — trudged through wet grass and muddy puddles to purchase eggs, apples, baked goods and the most coveted item of the day: ramps, or wild leeks, which are only in season for a few weeks.

“The ramps are the champs,” said Bob Benenson, 70, of Lake View, who publishes the Local Food Forum blog. “Ten years or so ago, it became a real craze with the area chefs, and they would go foraging downstate. Then, they started filtering into the farmers markets. As you can see, they fly off the table.”

That passion is par for the course at the market, which features 65 vendors, including first-time sellers: Nude Dude Food, La Cosecha Tortilla Co., Banter Marketplace and North Sky Farm. It will remain open through November. Last year, Green City Market drew approximately 600,000 people across its multiple markets. The nonprofit also plans to open a year-round farmers market in a North Center building at 2457 W. Montrose Ave. later this year.

The community support comes at a crucial time, as vendors are navigating financial burdens brought rising costs under the Trump administration, which proposed nearly $5 billion in cuts to the Agriculture Department for fiscal year 2027 on Friday. Both farmers and retail owners say they not only have been impacted by federal funding cuts, but rising gas prices amid the Iran war.

“Things feel really scary, and people sometimes feel paralysis, like, ‘What can I do?’” said Grace Hauser, market and vendor relations manager at Green City Market. “A big way that people can help is to spend their money at the farmers market. It goes directly into the pockets of our farmers and our vendors who are at the front lines.”

Sandy Eich, 59, of Kankakee Valley Homestead, lost funding last year when the USDA canceled $1 billion in programs enabling schools and food banks to purchase food from local farmers and ranchers. Eich’s Indiana farm was awarded a $90,000 contract to provide fresh fruits and vegetables to nearby schools. When the agreement was terminated, she had already purchased $20,000 worth of seeds.

“It was a loss to us as a small family,” Eich said. “It was a loss to all the kids and the families in the school system that are now getting frozen stuff.”

Eich said vending at farmers markets helped her get out of debt.

“It's the people of Chicago who are coming here, stopping at this little blue tent and saying, ‘Hey, what do you have today?’” she said. “That truly is our support.”

Other vendors like newcomer Jonathan Correa, 36, say they are being squeezed by gas prices. The owner of La Cosecha Tortilla Co. travels from Wisconsin to sell at Green City Market. He now pays about $70 instead of $45 to fill up at the pump. Additionally, the prices of bags and containers for salsa have increased by 15%, he said.

“We've had it raise our prices a little bit to kind of help cover some of those costs,” he said. “I really try to be as cost-effective with my products as possible. We're an artisan product, but I want tortillas to be like bread to people. It's something that people eat every single day.”

Marcial Kajer, owner of Kajers Greens, said he pays $2 more per gallon to fill up in Indiana, where his farm is based.

"If it stays up, we're definitely going to have to reconsider looking over our prices," he said.

But Kajer said he finds plenty of support at the market.

"The customers here really respect farmers and show a lot of gratitude," he said. "I was doing six markets a week prior to coming to Green City just to make ends meet. They run it so well that it took a lot of stress off my shoulders."

While providing a way for out-of-town farmers to expand their business, the Green City Market also fosters the growth of Chicago-based businesses. Nude Dude Food, a private chef and corporate catering company, joined the market this year to sell its sourdough pizza directly to customers.

"We've actually sold more than I thought we would considering the rain," said co-owner Seth Bradley, 44, of West Town. "The Chicago food community is very supportive."

Community engagement is another draw for Green City Market, which executive director Leticia Steele calls a "third place," or a social environment outside of home and work.

"It's not just accessing the food, it's accessing the community and the connection," Steele said. "This market is for everyone. And it's just been so great to see so many new people feel like, 'I belong here. This is my market.'"