Restaurant review: The very best of Cypriot cuisine
Sometimes you wonder if some restaurants are not meant to be in your life, and this was certainly the case with the new Artio Symposium at Elinn Traditional Suites. Over two consecutive weekends, we made reservations and then, for a variety of genuine reasons, had to cancel. However, it was third time lucky, and we followed through on a reservation for Sunday lunch.
The restaurant is part of a beautiful new set-up in Kathikas, an excellent place to escape the humidity of summer. The new Elinn Suites is a variety of stone buildings which have been refurbished to a very high standard. At the heart of the complex is Artio Symposium, with a lovely outdoor terrace and a warm, cosy and stylish interior. It is tucked down the back streets of the village, but well signposted from the main road.
Upon our arrival, the welcome was one of the most professional and friendly I have ever received at a restaurant. The menu is extensive, offering the very best of Cypriot cuisine, obviously designed to be shared, which is increasingly becoming my favourite way to dine. For wine lovers, there is a great selection of both Cypriot and international wines, many from vineyards just down the road.
The menu offers salads, dips and vegetable dishes in many forms, all designed and thankfully large enough to be shared. Without question, the menu is very much Cypriot, with an Italian influence, ad there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Meat eaters too have some unusual choices including pork knuckle and roasted bone marrow.
After our order was taken, the charming waiter arrived with a beautifully presented breadboard of warm traditional bread and excellent olive oil and Trahanas Halloumi Soup on the house, which made a very nice introduction to the meal with a subtle flavour.
The Spicy Hummus, of course, we have tried many times, but this one was just that little bit different, with a nice little kick, together with caramelised carrots and smoked olive oil. Next was a Smoked Eggplant dip, which is often on menus, but this was the very best of the best, with feta, chilli flakes, and fried, crispy pitta pieces for dipping. We also had Sweet Potato and feta, which was a gorgeous combination of flavours with the addition of honey, almonds and fennel seeds. The standout sharing plate, though, was the very decadent Imam Bayaldi, an eggplant dish in a supremely rich tomato sauce with feta and almond flakes.
From the meat selection, we chose the Beef Ribs, which came with potato and truffle purée, red wine sauce, and fried carrot shavings. They could not have been improved upon, either with ingredient combinations or quality. They were cooked to perfection, slid off the bone, and so generous that the three of us could enjoy seconds from a single portion.
You can tell they take their desserts very seriously at Artio, and offer a modern take on traditional desserts. We chose two to share, starting with Tiramisu Pistachio, which arrived in a camembert-style box. Unlike an Italian one, it was not creamy but more solid with a firmer consistency. The knockout dessert, though, was the Baklava Cheesecake. Basically, two desserts in one. The cheesecake part was very similar to a Basque burnt cheesecake, topped with nuts and honey between layers of Beirut Phyllo pastry.
Artio Symposium is already a Cypriot gem and stands as a reminder of what true hospitality should be. For anyone who loves Cypriot food, you have found your new home. At the moment, the restaurant has limited opening hours on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, but plans are to open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY Cypriot
WHERE Artio Symposium at Elinn Traditonal Suites, Ticharion 31, Kathikas, Paphos
WHEN Currently Friday and Saturday 2-11 pm, Sunday 12-6 pm. Plans to open 7 days a week from April for breakfast, lunch, and dinner
CONTACT Booking is essential. 26 622777, www.elinntraditionalsuites.com
HOW MUCH Salads from €11, Dips from €8, Mains/meat from €19, Desserts all €8