Cyprus wineries finding the new in something old

When I arrive for a trade tasting it has me wondering how much thought goes into conceptualising such events. Importers these days are increasingly searching for a theme to support and justify events. Many are themed around the wines they import with a strong pairing with the deli food that sometimes they may also provide. Here are some Cypriot wines I have tasted in recent trade tastings.

2024 Vasilikon Winery Pithos, PDO Laona Akamas, ABV 12.5%

The rebirth of amphora wines is taking over Vasilikon Winery. Everything old seems to be new. Just one generation ago, amphorae were something winemakers saw in museums. Today, they are the latest must-have for trendy wineries. Amphorae give something to wine that other vessels do not: barrel-like oxygenation without additional tannins from wood. The Xynisteri in this wine is sourced from a 700m altitude of a single vineyards Kampos tis Feizous at Arodes village, which was planted in 1920. Aged for six months in clay amphora, in the glass there is a pale golden colour. You breathe in white and yellow flowers, herbal, chamomile and earthy notes, mineral stone fruit as in apricot and peach as well as dry pineapple, with honey, nutmeg and bergamot. The palate is oily with refreshing acidity, subtle tannins, honey and white flowers, while citrus and grapefruit mingle with spiciness, white pepper and ginger. Enjoy with roast pork and orange glaze or risotto with pumpkin, hazelnut and sage. Limited and available at the winery. €14

2025 Symeon Winery Anna, White Varietal ABV 13%

The new label of Symeon features the indigenous Morokanella varietal. Absence of oak ageing combines with extravagant lees contact and exclusion of oxygen in stainless steel to protect and concentrate welcoming aromatics and luscious flavours, fine for cellaring. Juicy and bright pear, passion fruit, peach, mango, nectarine and hints of citrus, Mediterranean herbs and spices, with thyme, white blossoms on the nose. Enjoy with grilled octopus, chicken salad with apricot, peach or mango, or baked herb crusted salmon. €12.90

2012 Kyperounda Winery Akti, PGI Lemesos, ABV 12.5%

The majority of this exceptional rosé are the indigenous Lefkada and Mavro, at least 20%. The wine reveals a beautiful light peach hue, reminiscent of rose gold. The nose is enveloping with aromas of candied citrus, evolving towards lemon verbena leaves. On the palate, the wine is clean and reveals notes of red fruits. The midpalate is tight, fresh and very harmonious. The wine is delicious, right up to the delicately balanced finish, perfumed with a hint of pomelo. Complexity and shear depth make the Akti impossible to ignore. This versatile wine is excellent with seafood, light and fragrant dishes like heirloom salads, fresh herb tabbouleh, grilled fish or lamb skewers. €17

2025 Tsiakkas Winery Mouklos Mavro, PGI Lemesos, ABV 14%

This refreshing red is made from the Mavro grape variety that grows at 920m near Pelendri village in sandy and volcanic soils from 80-year-old ungrafted vines. It undergoes a semi-carbonic maceration. Deep garnet red, very cool, silky and precise in spite of the impressive old-vine depth. Cherry, strawberry, blackcurrant and blackberry, field herbs and chocolate. It has a personality that is gentle and polite. The fine-grained texture on the medium-bodied palate makes you feel like you are licking the granite soil of the site. I love the delicate spicy aromas and touch of red roses. There is a dramatic mineral freshness in the emphatically dry finish. A superb match for sharp cheddar on a toasted baguette, or for a classic French bistro favourite like steak tartare. €10

2022 Tsiakkas Winery Giannoudi, PGI Lemesos, ABV 13.5%

The 2022 Tsiakkas Giannoudi brings together vineyards from Pelendri, Kato Milos and Krasochoria to capture the best of sandy, clayey soils that are up to 1,200m. Pelendri’s generous, supple tannins and Krasochoria’s juicy, fresh fruit are an excellent combination for this red. Aged for up to 11 months in French and American oak, this wine is the essence of a new wave of reds coming from this region made with indigenous varieties. Dark red colour, intense aromas of fresh plum, forest fruit and delicate balsamic notes float over oak and a floral hint in the background with nutmeg and black pepper. With indulgent depth and a juicy flow, the 2022 balances plush tannins with refined texture to produce a long and sapid palate with a touch of intensity, elegant acidity and subtle concentration. This is a rich wine that raises the bar for Pitsilia and Krasochoria regions. Its robust flavours will complement the smoky and savoury notes of grilled meats or try this with rice and wild mushrooms stuffed peppers. €25

2023 Symeon Winery Topos, Red Dry Blend ABV 14.5%

Composed of approximately 55% Mavro, the 2023 still has a generous and focused nose with delightful, red-fruited notions that sway with fresh, rich and spicy florals and hazelnuts, the result of ageing in French and Slovenian oak. Medium to full-bodied, the wine is spicy yet balanced with a fresh and plush mouthfeel, revealing balance and finesse with elegant oak tones, succulent acidity and lifting tannins. The wine concludes with a long, focused and spicy finish. Roast lamb is a specialty for this wine, also enjoy with pork chop or duck confit. €16.50

2025 Symeon Winery Maratheftiko, Red dry ABV 13.5%

This lush and alluring fresh Maratheftiko is fermented in concrete tanks and draws you in with aromas of ripe blueberry, raspberry jam, red cherries and dark cherries. On the palate, it is silky and medium-bodied, with a robust texture that frames the luxurious dark berry flavours as they glide to a long blackberry pie and cracked pepper finish. The wine’s acidity and fruitiness pair nicely with seafood, also excellent with chicken thighs and light sauce or grilled mignon steak. Serve slightly cold, enjoy while young. €12.90