I travelled to the Masai Mara 30 years after my first visit – this is what’s changed

Arguable the most famous reserve in the world for safaris, the Masai Mara has been plagued by overtourism – including the arrival of a highly controversial Ritz Carlton that is widely believed to block a migration corridor. On her most recent visit, Kate Wickers explored whether it’s still possible to travel responsibly in the region