Janeiro Hotel: a sleek Brazilian stay on Rio’s famous beachfront

Set right opposite the beach in the heart of chic Leblon – Rio’s glossiest, most exclusive neighbourhood – Janeiro Hotel is all about the style.

Housed in a 19-storey tower with an elegant rooftop pool and bar overlooking the ocean, it’s the brainchild of Brazilian artist, fashion designer and environmental activist Oskar Metsavaht. He apparently wanted to recreate the ‘Carioca lifestyle’, echoing Rio’s swishest residences – meaning clean whites, leafy plants, natural wood furnishings and Brazilian artworks throughout.

It feels like the place to be seen with a youthful, stylish crowd, but luxury here isn’t overt or in-your-face. It’s more of a sleek, minimalist aesthetic with a laid-back, modern feel.

Why stay here?

First off, the location is excellent. It’s just across the road from the beach and a few minutes’ walk from Leblon’s cobbled lanes, where glamorous Cariocas gather at some of the city’s trendiest bars and restaurants. Upscale Ipanema and its namesake beach are also close by, while Copacabana is around a 15-minute drive along the coast.

I was welcomed with a warm, friendly smile as soon as I walked in; service here is smooth, intimate and personalised, with a small, boutique vibe (there are 51 rooms, but it feels like fewer).

Every room overlooks the sea, and they’re all immaculate in design, with custom-made furnishings, handcrafted light fixtures – made in southern Brazil from recycled glass, I’m told – and a light, airy palette.

I was staying in an Oceanfront Suite, which was huge and came with a very comfy king bed, standalone bathtub, sofa, desk, large TV and quirky, egg-shaped swinging chair, made from natural rattan. The walk-in double shower was ultra-powerful, and a yoga mat was a nod to the bohemian vibe. Large windows offered bright blue sea views as light poured in, with sunbathers dotting the sand below and the Cagarras Islands floating in green blobs on the horizon beyond.

Alongside the slick accommodation, the rooftop here is a key draw; it’s not huge and the pool is a bit too small for swimming lengths, but it offered a sweeping sea view, and a spiral staircase led to an extra terrace with more space and daybeds.

In a bid to be sustainable – and in keeping with Metsavaht’s background in environmental activism – drinking water is provided in reusable glass bottles, solar panels supply part of the hotel’s energy and smart systems are used to reduce water consumption. The hotel also supports various local conservation projects, including Restinga, aimed at preserving the surrounding coastline through rewilding.

Eating and drinking

There are two main dining spots here: the Janeiro Restaurant, where breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in a light, cosy space with big, sea-view windows; and the bistro-inspired Cedilha Bar, which sits on the ground floor with a handful of outdoor, streetside tables.

Breakfast was excellent and felt elegant rather than wasteful. An à la carte menu offered the likes of avocado toast, pancakes and made-to-order omelettes as well as more local dishes (think artisanal cheeses, tapioca wraps and acai bowls). I tried the eggs benedict and it was light and perfectly done, while the oatmeal with peanut butter, banana and sugar cane molasses felt like a healthy treat.

A small, delicate side buffet featured sourdough and other just-baked breads alongside fresh, flaky pastries (including one of the best almond croissants I’ve had). Healthy options like chia seed pots and freshly squeezed juices were also on hand, as gentle, chilled music played in the background.

The restaurant was closed for lunch and dinner when I was there, so I didn’t get to sample it, but Brazilian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes were the focus of the menu. Starters featured the likes of burrata with almonds, dill and honey; grilled scallops with edamame and hazelnut; and beef tartar with charcoal oil, salsa rubra and radish. Mains included shrimp ravioli, pumpkin agnolotti, braised ribeye, arroz de polvo (octopus rice) with artisanal sausage and a changing fish of the day, and they were all reasonably priced (averaging around £14).

I did eat at the Cedilha Bar, tucking into ultra-tender, fall-at-the-fork braised ribs and the MCM sandwich – a satisfyingly chunky brioche burger filled with panko-breaded fish filet and tartar sauce. I topped it off with a decadent chocolate mousse that was silky-smooth.

Complimentary room service is also included, and the Little Pool Bar on the rooftop served salads and sandwiches alongside classic caipirinhas and more creative cocktails. I sipped on an Aurora – made with vermouth, cashew compote, sugarcane molasses and allspice – as the sky turned peach and gold at sunset, and it was paradise.

Things to do

Guests aren’t short of things to do here – I whiled away an afternoon exploring Leblon (if you want to eat outside the hotel, I’d especially recommend Nola, which draws a crowd of well-heeled locals; try the hummus tahini).

The hotel also offers beach service, although it’s fairly low-key – you’ll be given deckchairs and a parasol, but be prepared for it to be a little busy, as it’s on a public beach (and there aren’t sunbeds).

A big plus for me, though, was the complimentary bike hire, with a cycle path that goes all the way along the waterfront. I hired one and ambled along past Ipanema and on to Copacabana, which I’d highly recommend doing.

There isn’t a fitness centre on site, but guests get free day passes to the swish Bodytech gym, which is a 10-minute walk away. Complimentary fitness sessions are also offered on the beach certain mornings of the week, and the hotel offers massages from its mini-spa treatment room.

For a lavish experience, you can also book a day’s sailing tour around the surrounding coastline and Guanabara Bay, with lunch prepared by Janeiro’s chefs.

If you fancy exploring wider Rio, Christ the Redeemer is a must-visit, although I recommend going early to avoid the crowds. I especially enjoyed ambling to the top of Sugarloaf Mountain by cable car, watching views of the city and surrounding sea shrink beneath. I also loved the bohemian hilltop neighbourhood of Santa Teresa, with its quaint restaurants and colourful street art.

The verdict

This is a sleek, stylish spot that’s perfectly located if you want a beachfront stay in one of Rio’s swankiest neighbourhoods. It might not be the place to head if you want all the facilities of a large-scale resort, but if you’re looking for a fashionable base from which to explore the city with excellent service, standout food and a laid-back, easy-living approach, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it. I’m still dreaming of the view from my all-white suite, and I felt incredibly relaxed and reinvigorated after a few heavenly days here.

Laura French was a guest of the Janeiro Hotel; janeirohotel.rio