This 700-Mile Ski Road Trip Might Be the Best Powder Chase in the World

This is the year to level up your ski trip with a road trip around British Columbia’s aptly named Powder Highway. Along this 700-mile route, there are oodles of ways to experience some of the best snow in the world by skiing or snowboarding inbounds at seven incredible resorts, earning your turns with backcountry touring, taking a snowcat to untouched powder, and going big with a heli day deep in the Kootenay Mountains. I’ve visited more than 50 different ski resorts around North America and Europe and nothing tops the experience of riding the Powder Highway. Use my itinerary, which includes resort and backcountry intel, and the best restaurants, bars, hotels, and hot spring stops along the way, to plan your own epic adventure.

Start Steep at Fernie Alpine Resort

I started my trip with a flight into Calgary’s international airport, followed by three and a half hours of driving to Fernie Alpine Resort in Fernie, British Columbia. This is the longest driving section of the trip, which I did in the dark, and I felt every bit of it without the views of Alberta’s Rocky Mountains out the windows. The road is remote, and I realized I didn’t grab enough snacks near the airport before leaving civilization. Don't make my mistake—get fueled up for the drive. Exhausted, my husband and I pulled into Fernie, and all we could do was drag our gear inside and flop on the beds at Fernie 901. It can be tempting to hit the town, but you’d be wise to rest up—the five bowls of the resort demand your full attention and energy. Another great lodging option is Fernie Stanford Resort. All the action is on the mountain during the daytime and back in town in the evenings.

I hopped on the shuttle to the base to catch the first chair. From town and almost everywhere in the resort, there’s a view of the imposing headwall, a sheer cliff of rocks, ice, and snow that makes up the iconic backdrop of Fernie. I eased in with warmup laps through Siberia and Timber Bowls before grabbing a quick lunch on mountain at Lost Boys Café. Bears Den is another speedy option depending on where you end up in the middle of the day. The rest of the afternoon, I carved through the remaining bowls, finding pockets of snow from the previous day’s storm. Energy fully zapped, I headed to Griz Bar for après and an early dinner, where nachos and cold beer are a must. 

There are blue and black runs scattered throughout each of the five bowls, so a wide range of abilities can explore the far reaches of terrain, and you’ll likely find one or two that you prefer. On day two, my eyes were focused on the Polar Peak lift, and the 16 double black and six extreme triple black runs cascading from the top. I eagerly jumped aboard, only to start shaking immediately at the top. Only consider loading the lift in good visibility and soft snow conditions and if you can confidently hit runs like Knot Chutes (Timber Bowl Run #107) and the Saddles in Lizard Bowl (Runs #93 to #96). It’s okay if your skills aren’t quite up to Polar Peak, and you can watch from afar while skiing within your ability in less consequential terrain. Recover with a Spa 901 massage and hot tub soak after all those steep runs and a full dinner at Nevados right on the main street.

Cruise the Blues at Kimberley Alpine Resort

After I had my fill of Fernie, I drove one and half hours up to Kimberley, British Columbia, where I stayed at the resort's base at Trickle Creek Lodge, and dined at Pedal & Tap, where you can enjoy cedar plank salmon, fried spaghetti balls, and loaded fries with craft cocktails, local draft beer, and BC wines. I almost skipped the smaller, beginner-focused Kimberley Alpine Resort, but snow was falling, so I gave it shot. I was rewarded with lap after cruise-y lap of fresh tracks and a hearty lunch at Stemwinder Bar and Grill at the base. I left just enough time to stroll through the quirky town, popping into specialty shops for gear and souvenirs, cafes for coffee, and art galleries to fill the rest of the day.

Then, I hit the road again for another hour drive up to Fairmont Hot Springs, which is the largest natural mineral hot springs in Canada and also has a mini ski hill ideal for kids. No lifts for me—this overnight stop was all about soaking up the healing waters to help my legs recuperate and prep for the next big resort. The 102°F, 89°F, and 86°F water in the pools is completely odorless, and there was plenty of space to soak in peace and stare out at the mountains across the valley before heading to bed in the hotel next door.

Ride the Snowcat to Untouched Terrain at Panorama Mountain Resort

I set another early alarm to drive the remaining 45 minutes to Panorama, with time for a stop at the grocery store (Sobey’s) in Invermere to stock up the fridge in the village condo. You can stay at either Peaks Lodge or Summit Lodge, where all but The Approach Hotel includes a kitchen. I delayed breakfast and headed straight to the on-mountain Summit Hut for egg sandwiches and coffee. Fueled up, I had the full day to explore as much of the 3,000 acres of terrain as I could with a stop for traditional Swiss raclette midday at Elkhorn Cabin. I followed the sun as it moved across the slopes to snow softened to a playful, carve-able consistency. Soon, the lifts stopped and it was time for happy hour and a casual pizza dinner at Alto Kitchen and Bar at the base. A walk back to the condo isn’t complete without a stop at the Candy Cabin and a nostalgic sweet treat.

I woke up eager to get back on the mountain with a ticket to ride the Monster X Snowcat, which is a snow shuttle to double black diamond terrain and untouched turns in the 750 acres of previously heli-access-only runs in Taynton Bowl. Fueled by a breakfast burrito and latte from Fireside Café, I was ready to turn up the adrenaline. Hiking the same area is free, but the short ride saves your leg muscles for the steep downhill turns and natural features. The snow was so good, I hiked it two more times to savor the view and hunt down more powder stashes. While I was happy to add more miles to my board, Panorama is a great spot to trade skis for fat bikes at Nordic Centre at Greywolf. There are guided tours that take you to Hale Hut (two hours round trip) or Placer Hut (one hour round trip).

After a full day tearing up the bowl, I was craving a proper dinner of Canadian fare at Cliffhanger Restaurant (Note: It's only open Thursday through Sunday), which overlooks the Panorama Nordic Centre and Greywolf Golf Course. Start with a salad or chicken wings and move on to a burger, striploin steak, or seafood, with a local beer or classic cocktail to complement. Wiped out again, I opted for a dip in the hot pools and early bedtime to rest up for another morning of driving. 

Hike and Heli Off-Piste At Kicking Horse Mountain Resort

Right in Golden, before the winding road to the base of Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, there are delicious breakfast options, like Ethos Café or Bluebird Café. Kicking Horse is known as the “Champagne Powder Capital of Canada,” encompassing 3,500 acres of skiable terrain. There's one main gondola up the center of the resort and four lifts, but I found myself lapping one upper mountain lift (aptly named the Stairway to Heaven Chair) most of the day and hiking to reach the best snow and lines that feel like backcountry. I rested up with a midday meal at Eagle's Eye at the top of the gondola. Most noteworthy runs and lines require a hike (anywhere from a short stair climb to a lengthy and more technical route that involves scaling rocky ridges). The chutes and steep open bowls, where powder stashes last days after a storm, are well worth the extra effort. With one day done, I had barely scratched the surface of Kicking Horse.

After the gondola stops spinning, Peaks Grill is an après magnet for skiers and riders with music on the lively patio, local beers, and bar fare. With a full belly, I settled in to one of the convenient condos at the base. 

In the morning, I dipped into Double Black Café on the way to the gondola. As I headed up the mountain, I spotted Boo, the grizzly bear that lives in refuge below. With so much left to explore, I focused on lookers' right in the resort, tackling drops off Whitewall in Feuz Bowl, Ozone’s steep alpine face, and Rudi’s rugged glades. I warmed up with lunch at Heaven’s Door Yurt Café, and got back into the snow quick. If storms have been scarce, you'll want to head the other direction to tackle T1, T2, and Super Bowl, where snow tends to linger longer. I headed back to Golden for tacos, burritos, and world-class margs at Reposados, where all the taco shells and tortilla chips are made fresh.

For once-in-a-lifetime lines, skip the lifts for a day and take flight with CMH Purcell, which offers otherworldly heli-skiing just to the east of Kicking Horse. The early wakeup call is worth it. I met up with my group for breakfast and safety demos at the Purcell Lodge, then it was time to take off and get into the 495,000-acre tenure. Surrounded by towering, snowcapped peaks, I surfed alpine bowls, glaciers, and more, over and over. Guides set up a picnic lunch heli-side. 

After a hefty après of charcuterie and drinks at the heli lodge, I headed to the nearby Whitetooth Brewing Co. for small batch Belgian-inspired and West Coast-influenced beers. This and bar snacks were the perfect nightcap for the last day at Kicking Horse.

Rack Up Vert at Revelstoke Mountain Resort

In the morning I drove west, headed to Revelstoke Mountain Resort, my fifth stop on the Powder Highway. It’s a two-plus hour drive along the TransCanada Highway, BC 1, which can close down with heavy snow, even with the many snow sheds built to protect the road from avalanches. I checked the DriveBC and TransCanada Highway websites before heading out and thankfully, conditions allowed me to continue with my itinerary on schedule. The views of the Monashee and Selkirk Ranges and Rogers Pass along the route were spectacular, and I fulfilled my copilot duty by taking photos of every angle. Even though it was a stunning drive, it was a relief to pull into the town of Revelstoke, known as Revy to locals and regulars. 

Naturally, I booked it straight to the gondola to rack up as many turns as I could from the top of the mountain. There’s plenty of history down in town, but Revy is a young ski resort, with less than 20 years operating, so lifts and facilities still feel fresh and new. Before dinner, there was just enough time to stroll around the main streets of town to choose a restaurant. I went for something casual with character: Village Idiot Bar & Grill. My husband and I shared a pile of nachos and pizza, and knocked back a local cider before heading to the hotel for shuteye. 

I skipped the late-night Revy revelry, but there’s plenty around town at The Last Drop, The River City Pub, and Traverse. I rested up at The Sutton Place Hotel right at the base for the best mountain access. Alternatively, The Stoke Hotel (a renovated motel with more personality than other chains) or budget-friendly Best Western in town are great options with convenient resort shuttles to the mountain. 

The first full day on Revy started with food and coffee at La Petite Baguette. After, I rode the gondola to the aptly named Stoke Chair to get to the very top of the resort. I ascended through the clouds to a whole new snowy wonderland above. Revelstoke has the highest vertical drop in North America and the runs seemed truly endless, whether I was playing in alpine bowls, glades, or on steep groomers. I couldn’t get enough of the snow ghosts lining the short sub-peak hike and the powder-filled lines of North Bowl. I made a quick lunch stop at Mackenzie Outpost at the top of the gondola, before heading out and up for more vert.

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Just steps from the gondola is Rockford Bar & Grill, so I didn’t have to walk far for a refreshing drink and friendly atmosphere that's perfect for sharing apps and swapping ski stories with new friends. Once again, my energy level was zero so I sent myself straight to bed.

There’s no way to tour all Revelstoke Mountain has to offer in a single day, so I geared up to repeat it all again, making a stop at Spilt Milk for breakfast in town before loading the gondola. I stayed up high exploring the many glades around Ripper Chair, only dropping down to mid-mountain for lunch at Revelation Lodge. After more laps around North Bowl, the après scene greeted me at the bottom. The square is filled with good vibes, drinks, a DJ, and snacks. From there, I grabbed a cocktail at Monashee Spirits Distillery before hitting Craft Bierhaus to rehash the turns of the day over hearty bar food.

I didn’t have time on this tour, but Revy is the perfect spot to add a single guided day with K3 Cat Ski, Eagle Pass Heli, or Selkirk Tangiers Heliskiing to get into the backcountry, where mountains regularly receive a whopping 700 inches of snow annually. Interior BC is the birthplace of heli-skiing after all, so it’s only fitting to experience the thrill in the OG spot.

Related: Pro Explains How to Turn a Ski Day Into a Full-Body Workout

Wander the Wilderness of Whitewater Mountain Resort

After five days of snowboarding in a row, I took a much-needed day off the slopes. This is also a longer travel day on the Powder Highway. There are a few ways to get to your next destination, Whitewater Mountain Resort in Nelson, British Columbia. I drove 30 minutes south to the free ferry crossing at Shelter Bay Ferry Terminal. The 20-minute cruise across Arrow Lake runs every half hour from 5 a.m. to midnight and holds 80 vehicles and 250 passengers. You could also try the beautiful, three-hour driving option to reach Nelson along the shores of Lake Kootenay.

Nelson is a year-round adventure hub with an artsy heart and funky vibe. With more than 50 different restaurants and cafes, it has more dining outlets per capita than San Francisco. It’s hard to make a wrong choice food-wise, and farmer-owned Pitchfork Eatery—with cocktails and dishes incorporating seasonal and local ingredients—was a perfect intro to the town. After dinner, I walked back through the mural-clad alleys and settled in at the spacious Stirling All Suites Hotel.

As fascinating as the town is, the real thrill is in the mountains beyond. I started the next day with a sandwich and latte from Oso Negro with my sights set on the steep, wild inbounds terrain at Whitewater Mountain Resort, just 25 minutes away. It’s an all-natural playground of steeps, gullies, glades, and high-alpine bowls with no snowmaking or cell-service throughout the 3,000+ acres. The made-from-scratch Pow Chow lunch at Coal Oil Jonny’s Pub was well worth the stop after quad-burning turns through Glory Chair and powder stashes in Backside Bowl. I savored my noodle bowl and local cider. It’s no surprise the resort cookbook has a cult following. In the afternoon, I stayed closer to the base with Summit Chair laps through Catch Basin and the ABC shafts below.

I got back to town famished and beelined for Big Dee’s ice cream shop for a piled high cone. I still had plenty of room for a feast of Neapolitan pizza with hand-stretched dough and homemade pasta at Marzano in Nelson. Next, I popped over to Torchlight Brewing for a pint. I turned in after one stop, but I’d recommend adding the Nelson Brewing Company and Backroads Nelson for a proper taproom crawl.

For day two in Nelson, I went right back up to Whitewater for more turns and wild terrain. The snow storm I hoped for didn’t come, so I explored and searched for powder stashes from the last dump. It’s just as easy to access true wilderness with one of five local cat ski operators here: Baldface, Selkirk Snowcat Skiing, Retallack, White Grizzly, and Valhalla Powder Cats. Nelson is known as the "Cat Ski Capital of the World," but that’s an adventure I’ll happily come back another time to enjoy. After a day at the resort, I went for more nourishing noodles at locally-owned Red Light Ramen.

Related: Jim Morrison Waited a Month to Climb One of the World’s Tallest Vertical Cliffs—Then Skied 20,000 Feet Down Its Untouched Face

Soak in the Après Vibes at Red Mountain Resort

The hour drive to western Canada’s oldest resort, Red Mountain, flew by. I pulled into The Josie Hotel at the base as flakes piled up. I hopped on the Silverlode lift to warm up with groomers and dabble in the trees before heading to the top of Granite Mountain. Up there, all aspects of the peak are ridable and offer progressively steeper glades loaded with fluffy snow. I only stopped for a brief lunch break at Paradise Lodge before repeating the powder-filled drops off Granite Mountain to Beer Belly and Booty’s Run countless times. I didn’t even mind the relaxed road that looped around back to the lift. It just kept snowing and tracks refilled, so I didn’t leave the slopes until lifts closed. Thankfully, The Velvet Restaurant right at the base had just what I craved for a first dinner (seasonal salad, a burger, and local beer).

Filled with a hearty breakfast buffet from The Velvet, I made the final day count by diving deeper into Red’s 3,800 acres. I explored more glades on Granite Mountain and a few chill runs off Grey Mountain. Somehow my Jello legs kept turning and reloading the lift. I couldn’t leave the bottomless powder turns early.

No visit to Red is complete without an evening at Rafters Bar for BC craft beers on tap. All ages are welcome to hang at this base area watering hole that was voted "#1 Après Spot in the World" by Powder Magazine. They also pour world-class Caesars (the Canadian bloody Mary) and serve nacho platters as big as the table. 

After another restful night at The Josie, I drove the last two and a half hours to Spokane, Washington, to fly back home. The border crossing here is open 24/7 so there’s no closure to worry about en route to the airport.

There’s a reason Shaun White called out British Columbia for the best snow in the world while commentating on the Milan Cortina Winter Olympics. It really is that incredible. That snow covers all the resorts and surrounding mountains along the Powder Highway. Even though I live in Colorado, with access to some of the best resorts in the world, it won't be long before I'm booking another trip to Canada's mountains.

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