Restaurant review: Nostalgia served it better

One of the downsides of always chasing somewhere new to try is that old favourites quietly fall off the radar. You don’t mean for it to happen, but suddenly you realise it’s been years. That was exactly the case with Lush in the Makenzy area.

One afternoon we’d planned to head into town for lunch, but at the last minute decided we wanted to be right by the sea instead. So, we changed course and drove towards Makenzy. As we pulled up outside the grand looking building where Lush is located, I did wonder if not calling ahead to reserve might have been a mistake.

Luckily, there were a few tables free inside. The outdoor tables were full, and had we wanted to sit outside, we might have struggled. As it was, we were shown to a comfortable table indoors with a lovely view.

Before even opening the menu, we both remembered the warm, fluffy loaf of bread that used to arrive at the table with a small round ball of herbed butter. It had been one of those simple but memorable touches. As we opened the menu, we spotted it right at the top. Still there, but now listed at €4.

The space itself still feels polished and modern. Open plan, sleek finishes, a slightly luxurious edge without being over the top. The menu matches that feel. It looks smart and contemporary, though we did notice a couple of spelling mistakes, which felt a little unfortunate in an otherwise refined setting.

At first glance, the menu seems extensive, almost overwhelming. On closer inspection, though, I realised that while there was plenty of choice, not much was truly calling out to me that day. Eventually, my options narrowed to either the pork chop or the ‘Exceptional burger’. Not the most adventurous choices, but I was extremely hungry and wanted something filling and reliable. I chose the pork chop.

My dad went for the lobster ravioli, after checking with the waitress that the portion was generous. She assured him it was. My partner was torn between the chicken orzotto and the shiitake chicken kefalotyri spaghetti. The waitress mentioned that the latter was noticeably saltier, so she opted for the orzotto instead.

To make things a little more interesting, and because we remembered the sushi being good in the past, we ordered spicy tuna maki to share as a starter.

The maki arrived first and immediately reassured us. It was beautifully presented, tightly rolled, fresh and full of flavour, with just the right amount of heat at the end of each bite. It was genuinely excellent and set our expectations high for what was to follow.

The mains didn’t take too long. The ravioli was placed in front of my dad, and his expression said quite a lot before he even spoke. It didn’t look especially generous. The orzotto came in a bowl that appeared small at first glance, though it was well filled, with two pieces of chicken resting on top.

Then my pork chop arrived. I had been picturing a large, Cyprus-style chop, the kind that dominates the plate. This was noticeably smaller. When you build something up in your head, especially on an empty stomach, and it arrives differently, there is an instant flicker of disappointment.

Sadly, the food didn’t quite live up to our memories. My dad described the lobster ravioli as “okay” and not enough. My partner was relieved she hadn’t chosen the saltier dish, as even her orzotto leaned heavily on the seasoning. As for my pork chop, it was inconsistent. The main meaty section was overcooked and dry, while the rind near the bone was underdone. The juicy section in between felt slightly too rich without enough balance. The chips, however, were very good.

After finishing, we asked to see the dessert menu, hoping something might tempt us to stay a little longer. Nothing really stood out, and we decided to call it there.

I had gone in hoping Lush would match the very fond memories I had of it. The location remains fantastic, right by the sea. The design is elegant. The atmosphere still has that polished feel. The service was largely warm and professional. And the spicy tuna maki was superb. Beyond that, though, the food did not quite meet the standard we had hoped for, and it left me wondering whether some places are best left as good memories.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY International

WHERE Tasou Mitsopoulou, Makenzy, Larnaca

WHEN 9am to 2am (Lunch and dinner menu, kitchen open 12-11pm)

CONTACT 70008089

HOW MUCH Chicken Orzotto €20.40. Crab-Lobster ravioli €22.70. Pork chop €18.80