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I took a $185 lie-flat overnight bus across Europe instead of the train. It was slower — but I slept better.

Megan Carnegie was able to get good sleep on the bus.
  • Megan Carnegie paid $185 for a new overnight bus across Europe.
  • Twiliner, a Swiss startup, is trying to revive overnight land travel with lie-flat beds on luxury buses.
  • The pillow and duvet made the bed extra comfortable.

I've sat on many butt-numbing daytime bus journeys across Europe, but I'd never braved a night bus. That is, until Swiss transport startup Twiliner launched its lie-flat fleet, aiming to reinvent overland travel.

Since late 2025, it has been running two routes — Amsterdam to Zurich and Zurich to Barcelona — with several departures each week.

Designed to echo sleep-friendly airplane seating, founder Luca Bortolani told Business Insider that he's been surprised by the breadth of travelers on board, from 18 to 85, using it for everything from business trips to leisure — and even day trips.

The company also touts its use of a renewable fuel made from waste fats and vegetable oils.

I boarded the bus in January for its longest route yet, starting in Amsterdam and traveling around 1,000 kilometers through Rotterdam, Brussels, Luxembourg, Basel, and finally ending in Zurich. It took 12 hours.

Here's why it was better than the train.

1. There's no reason to get to the terminal early
The bus departed from Amsterdam Centraal station.

My bus from Amsterdam Sloterdijk bus station was scheduled to depart at 8 p.m., and the ticket noted that passengers should arrive 10 minutes early. I gave myself far too much time to get there from Amsterdam Central Station, so I had a very cold 20-minute wait on the concourse.

The station had no amenities, so I was glad I'd eaten dinner and picked up snacks and water in advance. Unlike a train or plane, there's almost zero pre-departure admin, so even that 10-minute window is generous.

Once the bus had arrived and my ticket had been scanned, I was on board and ready to roll in seconds. Plus, because we were traveling through the Schengen Area, a border-free travel zone comprising 29 European countries, there were no internal border passport checks, so no interruptions.

2. Room to spread out without disturbing fellow passengers
There are 21 seats on the bus.

While I aspire to be a minimalist traveler, limited baggage allowance is my worst nightmare, so I was pleased I could bring a large suitcase and a carry-on bag for no extra cost.

There are 21 seats on the bus — 18 up top and three on the bottom — and I was seated at the front of the top deck.

I was blown away by how much room I had. As well as overhead shelving, there was plenty of space to leave my bag, shoes, and assortment of belongings on the carpeted floor.

3. Changing into and out of PJs for the night is a genuinely pleasant experience
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On a seated night bus or train, I'd never dream of changing into proper PJs. I just board in something comfortable and hope for decent bathrooms on the other side so I can freshen up.

Not on this bus.

The hotel-grade bathroom was roomy, well-lit, and plush enough for a nighttime routine — yes, even skincare. There was space to rest my toiletries bag, change, and brush my teeth, all in motion. Bonus points for the fancy hand soap.

4. Free hot drinks and an honesty kiosk for snacks
The kiosk is stocked with Swiss snacks.

I'd eaten a proper meal before boarding, but there was also a kiosk stocked with Swiss snacks: chips, cookies, and energy bars. It was all reasonably priced and could be paid for via a QR code.

My delicious Cailler hazelnut chocolate was less than $5. I also had many refills of herbal tea from the hot drink station. We all received a bottle of water in our kit bag, and there was a freshwater tap.

Although it was too early for me to have a coffee when we pulled into Zurich bus station, a Nespresso machine and pods were available too.

5. The beds are seriously comfortable
She found the seats comfortable and easy to sleep on.

After I settled in and streamed a show on my iPad, I touched a button to have the seat glide from upright to fully flat in around 30 seconds.

For safety, I had to strap my feet into a mesh sling clipped to the seat. It sounds fiddly, but I forgot it was there once I'd settled down.

The high sides helped block out fellow travelers, and I was given a bottom sheet, pillow, and duvet, with extras available from the steward. There's also USB and standard electrical outlets, as well as individual reading lights.

With my earplugs in, lulled by the dimmed purple lighting and gentle road hum, I was asleep by 11 p.m. and woke just after 6 a.m., feeling cocooned and rested.

6. More expensive than the train, but much cozier and less stressful.
The bus traveled through Rotterdam, Brussels, Luxembourg, Basel, ending in Zurich

The same journey by train would have cost around $130, or more if booked at the last minute, versus Twiliner's fixed price of €160, or $185.

Most night buses just have a driver, who swaps out at rest stops.

On the ride, we had a customer steward on hand. He showed me to my seat, explained the safety features, and answered passengers' questions throughout.

We arrived in Zurich almost 1.5 hours early, and he gently woke passengers, so we had time to dress and gather our things.

During the day, the train would have taken 8 hours; overnight, closer to 11, often requiring changes. That means broken sleep and constant checks to make sure you're on the right platform, with the right ticket, and with all your belongings.

I'll always love trains, but I'd happily book this bus again.

Read the original article on Business Insider
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