Restaurant review: Food that matches stunning location

Phos is one of the latest additions to the Paphos dining scene. Located above the beautiful Ayios Georgios harbour, the area has seen major redevelopment over recent years, with the demolition of the former taverna and refurbishment of the entire plateau. My partner and I decided to meet there for lunch, and I was excited to try it having also heard good reports from friends.

Once parked up, I was slightly confused about how to get to the restaurant, as there is a distinct lack of signs indicating the openings to get through. Walking up to the building, all they have is a sign saying Phos, part of the Cap St George hotel, which most people would miss as they drive past and not even realise that a restaurant is there. It might be that more signs are coming.

Going into the building, again, I was not sure where to go, but after a few wrong turns and a good old nosey, I eventually found Phos. The charming manager was on hand to help me choose a table, which was quite hard because all the window tables were full and I wanted a sea view. The design of the restaurant is subtle with extensive use of stone and wood, which is an obvious choice, so that the interior does not compete with the landscape and sea views. And wow, what views. Thankfully, they have incorporated huge picture windows that take your breath away. In particular, the one on the right, looking down on the Akamas, is quite possibly the most stunning view from a restaurant in Cyprus.

Looking through the menu, I was relieved to see it was not quite as expensive as I had feared. Some of the dishes were comparable in price to those at less smart restaurants in a far inferior location. I was also delighted to find an exquisite printed menu rather than a QR code. The menu is divided into a selection of premium starters, salads, hot and cold starters, and mains. So many tempting Mediterranean options.

In the end, we decided to start with a selection of the house spreads (I call them dips): Tzatziki, Taramas, Spicy Feta and Charred Eggplant with pitta bread for dipping. I am a huge fan of dips, and these were the next level, being some of the best I have tasted in Cyprus. The spicy feta, made with charcoal-roasted Florina peppers, had a real kick, and the charred eggplant was exceptional, with the flavours of feta, mint and garlic coming through. With strips of pitta, there was easily enough for four people to enjoy as an entrée.

For the main course, we were tempted by the Deconstructed Pastitisio but, in the end, decided to go with Greek Giouvetsi, slow-cooked beef cheeks and smoked Greek Metsovone cheese. As we were sharing, we ordered a Calamari starter with a side of broccolini. When the food arrived at the table, we realised we had ordered too much as the portions were very generous, especially the beef cheeks served in a huge copper dish with orzo pasta. There were about seven pieces of the most tender and tasty beef, on a bed of rich, creamy tomato sauce, with the strong flavours of Metsovone cheese coming through. It was excellent and truly memorable.

The calamari with breadcrumbs was served with a lime and sweet chilli mayonnaise, and while the main event was excellent, being wonderfully crispy, the dip lacked a little spice. The only other slight disappointment was the side dish, which, having been told there was no broccolini and they only had broccoli, which was fine but it arrived without the described lemon-infused olive oil with chilli and mint.

While Phos is very much about the location, they have cleverly got all the other details just right, from the attentive staff to the outstanding food. We will definitely return and look forward to the opening of the outdoor terrace in April. Phos is certainly a testament to the fact that ‘location, location, location’ is true, but wow, what an escape location for dining.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Mediterranean

WHERE Ayiou Georgiou 224, Peyia, Paphos

WHEN Daily 12 -11 pm

CONTACT 97 828828 – Reservations advised and request a window table!

PRICES Starters from €7, Hot Starters from €14, Salads from €14, Mains from €20, Sides from €6, Desserts from €12