Hog Island Oyster Co. teams up with winery to help save white abalone

Can the consumption of one mollusk actually help another? Hog Island Oyster Co. and McPrice Myers Wines seem to think so. They have banded together to release Sea Legacy, a 100% clairette blanche wine sourced from Paso Robles and served exclusively at all Hog Island locations throughout Marin, Sonoma, Napa and San Francisco counties. Twenty-five percent of the proceeds will go toward the White Abalone Project and its efforts to restore the functionally extinct native white abalone to the California coast.

“This was a natural fit,” McPrice Myers said. “Sustainability is at the heart of everything we do. As a land-based company that thrives on feeding the land organically for future generations, we saw a clear parallel with Hog Island, their ethos and this focused campaign.”

Nicasio resident Patrick McNeil, the former proprietor of Wines that Deliver, which at one time produced more Marin County varietals than any other company, now serves as McPrice Myers Wines’ director of sales. He was instrumental in creating the partnership between the two companies.

“I’ve been working with Patrick for over 20 years, and bringing people together is something that he does very well. This conversation is no exception,” Myers said. “We were able to support a cause that originated with Hog Island in Marin County but is very relevant and near to us in Paso Robles.”

The clairette blanche in Sea Legacy might already be familiar to some Marin residents. The grapes from this vineyard had been previously used to make McPrice Myers Wines’ Arrived!, which had long been featured on Larkspur restaurant Farmshop’s wine list. Sea Legacy is composed of 100% clairette blanche from the Paper Street Vineyard. Clairette blanche is also known as the primary grape — used in its oxidized form — to make Noilly Prat’s iconic “dry” French vermouth. In a still wine it’s neither quite as sharp as a Sancerre nor as robust as Chablis — two classic pairings with oysters — and is subtle, allowing more of the seafood to shine. If ocean-fresh seafood is the star of your show, then perhaps this varietal might be the “best supporting actor.”

“Clairette blanche has a broader base to it, along with very high natural acidity, which is a unique place on any shellfish-driven wine list,” McNeil said. “Oysters? Sure. Clam chowder? Even better.”

Sea Legacy is $13 a glass and $52 a bottle at Hog Island locations, and the wine can also be purchased to go.

Recently, we caught up with Hog Island Beverage Director Saul Ranella to get more details.

Q: Clairette blanche is unusual for most Americans. Why did you select this varietal, and what attributes were you looking for?

A: Clairette blanche isn’t common here, which is exactly why we chose it. We strive to challenge our guests’ perception of wine and introduce them to grapes that are a little off the beaten path. With Sea Legacy, you get Bosc pear, tangerine blossom, verbena, lemon zest and mandarin layered with white honey, miso broth and a subtle sea salinity. There’s generous oak, but it shows up differently than chardonnay. The oak builds texture and structure rather than dominating the wine. We were looking for versatility. The grape was chosen for its range, not just its pairing precision.

Q: How did the partnership with McPrice Myers Wines come about, and what was your input?

A: We’ve long admired McPrice Myers Wines, and the partnership felt natural. Patrick McNeil, who represents McPrice, is part of the extended Hog Island family, so there was already a strong relationship and shared values around sustainability and craftsmanship. For years we’ve carried their Beautiful Earth blend of clairette blanche and grenache blanc, and we consistently found ourselves drawn to the clairette component. We knew we wanted clairette to be the focal point of this project. The winemaking was entirely handled by the McPrice team. We shared our vision for style and range, and they executed it flawlessly. Sea Legacy is not just a conservation wine; it is part of our larger philosophy of broadening the narrative around coastal wine.

Q: What is the plight of the white abalone?

A: White abalone were once abundant along the California coast but were devastated by overfishing and their naturally slow reproduction rate. Listed as endangered in 2001, they are now considered functionally extinct in the wild. As foundational grazers that help maintain kelp forests, their loss has had cascading impacts on marine ecosystems. The White Abalone Project is working to breed and restore sustainable wild populations.

Q: How does Hog Island navigate between conservation and consumerism?

A: It’s a real tension, harvesting from one mollusk to help save another, but that is the reality of modern conservation. At Hog Island, we ensure our farming is regenerative rather than extractive. Oysters are filter feeders that improve water quality and create habitat, so responsible aquaculture can strengthen ecosystems. We operate within strict environmental oversight and reinvest in science-based restoration efforts. The goal is to turn consumption into participation, where enjoying the ocean also helps rebuild it.

Q: Sum it all up for us?

A: This project reflects Hog Island’s broader commitment to showcasing wine regions and grape varieties that don’t always appear on traditional seafood menus. Coastal dining often defaults to a narrow set of familiar whites, but we believe oysters deserve a wider conversation. By highlighting expressive, site-driven and sometimes overlooked grapes, we expand our guests’ perception of what pairs with seafood while supporting producers and regions that may not always have the spotlight.

Jeff Burkhart is the author of “Twenty Years Behind Bars: The Spirited Adventures of a Real Bartender, Vol. I and II,” the host of the Barfly Podcast on iTunes (as seen in the New York Times) and an award-winning bartender at a local restaurant. Follow him at jeffburkhart.net and contact him at jeffbarflyIJ@outlook.com