3 of the hottest — and most exclusive — indie watch brands collectors are clamoring for

• Independent watch brands like F.P. Journe attract collectors with their high resale value.
• Famous enthusiasts like Mark Zuckerberg and Jay-Z also collect rare indie watches.
• Akrivia's Rexhep Rexhepi is celebrated for minimalist designs and nearly unattainable watches.

Big watch names are sure to catch the attention of the masses, but several smaller brands are reserved for those in the know.

Pieces made by independent watchmakers can retail on the high end of six figures. Some have skyrocketed in resale price, making them highly coveted in the watch world. For example, a Rexhep Rexhepi, which can retail for around $60,000, sold at auction for nearly $900,000 less than 10 years after it was made.

While leading Swiss brands like Rolex still dominate the luxury watch market, indie brands are becoming more appealing to some higher-end collectors, SwissWatchExpo CEO Eugene Tutunikov told Business Insider.

These smaller brands have found fans among famous (and wealthy) watch collectors, including Meta CEO Mark Zuckerberg, rapper and mogul Jay-Z, and "Shark Tank" investor Kevin O'Leary.

"The independent brands are capturing outsized attention right now because they represent true, physical scarcity in an increasingly mass-produced world," Tutunikov said.

The resale market for indie watches can be especially competitive. Some brands are instantly snapped up once they become available because they're produced in limited quantities, making it rare for collectors to put them up for sale.

These are the independent watchmakers that collectors and dealers can't stop talking about, according to dealers.

F.P. Journe

F.P. Journe was founded in 1999 by designer François-Paul Journe. Like most independent brands, F.P. Journe produces watches in limited quantities. Tutunikov described them as "micro-batch masterpieces."

The craftsmanship has attracted the attention of Zuckerberg, O'Leary, and Jay-Z — all three have been spotted in rare models. Eric Wind, who owns vintage watch site Wind Vintage, said collectors stand to gain as much as a 700% return on their investment in an F.P. Journe.

F.P. Journe's entry-level Élégante watch, which Wind said retails for around $19,000, can go for well over $100,000 on the pre-owned market.

If you're serious about owning one, secondhand is a more reliable route than shopping retail. Like other luxury status symbols, such as the Hermès Birkin, customers must first establish a relationship with the brand to purchase an F.P. Journe, Wind said.

"F.P. Journe hasn't just outperformed the watch market," said Joshua Ganjei, CEO of European Watch Company, which sells pre-owned and vintage watches. "It has redefined what watch market outperformance looks like."

Greubel Forsey

Greubel Forsey was founded in 2004 by Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey. Wind described its complicated watches as "unbelievably expensive" and large.

The watches are also hard to come by. The brand's chief executive, Antonio Calce, revealed a 10-year plan in 2021 that included kicking production up from just 100 timepieces a year to 400 to 500, he told The New York Times in 2023.

Zuckerberg previously flexed his Nano Foudroyante, Greubel Forsey's 10th "fundamental invention," which was limited to 22 timepieces at launch. The retail price is around $585,000, according to watch collector blogs.

Unlike brands like Rolex, Wind said Greubel Forsey watches are more for collecting than flipping for a higher price. However, he said that hasn't stopped them from catching the eyes of finance bros and anyone else who has the cash to spend on a six-figure watch.

Akrivia (Rexhep Rexhepi)

Rexhep Rexhepi, 39, is often regarded as a prodigy in Swiss watchmaking. He founded Akrivia in Geneva in 2012 before launching his eponymous line in 2018.

Rexhepi is known for the minimalist design of his Chronomètre Contemporain watch, which sold at a 2023 auction for nearly $900,000.

He's amassed a following over the years that Wind said makes it nearly impossible to get a watch from him. That hasn't stopped avid collectors with deep pockets from trying, even as they face competitive auctions and years-long waitlists.

"The collectors we see jumping into this space already respect the big houses, but they are turning to independents for that hit of pure, unfiltered horological rebellion," Tutunikov said.