Travel: Winter in Vienna is the season for music and fancy balls

It started like most of my trips do, by coming across a cheap airfare. I’d only been to Vienna once, decades ago, loved it and always meant to go back. But did I really want to go in winter, when it’s bone-chilling cold, even if I could fly there for only $400 roundtrip? I’m a California girl, after all.

The answer was yes, of course it would be worth it. I pondered going for the elaborate Christmas markets for which the city is famous, but it’s too hard to get away in December, what with the holidays and all.

Then, I remembered I’d always wanted to see the famed snow-white Lippizaner stallions at the Spanish Riding School, and I’d read about the hundreds of balls that take place each winter. Plus, Vienna is considered the world’s best city for classical music, and winter is when the scene is in high gear. Not all that surprising, really, considering it’s too cold to do much else.

In fact, my love of grand opera began there some 40 years ago, when my friend and I discovered we could buy standing room tickets for that night’s performance of “Salome” at the box office for the Staatsoper, the Vienna Opera House. We paid the equivalent of 91 cents. The evening was enchanting and unforgettable.

Nowadays, there’s no way I’m standing for three hours, but I’m still cheap, so I paid 16 Euros (around $20) for obstructed view tickets to “The Marriage of Figaro.” Mozart wrote the opera in his house nearby and it premiered in Vienna in 1786. We were in our cheap seats in the third row of a box, so couldn’t see the whole stage, but we saw enough to enjoy the show. It’s definitely worth going to see this Renaissance and Gothic revival palace of music, opened in 1869, even if you’re not an opera fan, but it’s essential to get advance tickets online, although you can still get standing room tickets at the box office on the same day. They’re not 91 cents anymore, but still pretty cheap.

Back when we bought our plane tickets in September, I couldn’t stop the ridiculous thoughts of going to a ball. I’m 69 years old — a little long in the tooth to pretend to be Cinderella. I live in T-shirts and mom jeans. I owned nothing that could be worn to a fancy occasion, let alone a ball. But the idea kept growing on me, until finally it popped out, fully grown. I needed to go to a ball. Any ball. No one was inviting me back home, so I clearly needed to go to Vienna.

Luckily, my friend Lori agreed to come with me (She’s weird too).  I went online and bought tickets for 210 Euros each to the Coffee Brewers Ball — supposedly one of the best in the city. (Don’t laugh, coffee is a religion there.) Then, of course, we had to go buy formal evening gowns, shoes, stockings, clutches and gloves. I found The Dress Outlet in the downtown L.A. garment district that had plus size dresses, and scored a silver sequined gown on sale for $59. We also bought enough cold weather clothing to outfit a polar expedition — and we needed it.

On arrival, we checked into the lovely 130-year-old Hotel Kaiserhof, an antique-filled place with a kind, helpful staff.

On our first morning, we headed to the Belvedere Museum, a baroque former palace that retains its grandeur. The acres of gorgeous gardens were frozen in January, but the palace retains its massive crystal chandeliers, painted ceilings, gilt trim and all its imperial splendor.

Our destination was the collection of paintings by Gustav Klimt, including his most famous, “The Kiss.” The artist used real gold in their construction they glow even today. This did not disappoint.

Afterward, we headed to the Hofburg Palace, where we’d reserved a walking tourof the Imperial Apartments, including the Sisi Museum. Sisi was the nickname of Empress Elisabeth of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. We’d recently watched an engrossing PBS series about her life. In a story that is possibly apocryphal, she was 16 years old when she accompanied her aristocratic Bavarian family to Vienna, where her sister Helene was to meet Emperor Franz Joseph, to whom she was already engaged to be married. But when they arrived, the emperor was so smitten with Sisi that he broke his engagement to her older sister, and married her instead. That was only the beginning of a thoroughly unique life for a royal wife.

After touring the excessively grand Imperial Apartments, I felt my little tract house at home was a little lacking. But then I don’t need dozens of servants to take care of it.

Our next big adventure was visiting the Spanish Riding School, which has been famous for its pure white “dancing” Lippizaner stallions for hundreds of years. The name dates back to a former emperor, a Habsburg from Spain, who brought his horses with him. The first mention of a riding arena on the site dates back to 1565. And, to this day, they are meticulously trained from colts to perform spectacular feats of dressage, including some who can lift their front legs and seem to prance off the ground.

For horse lovers, it’s a breathtaking treat to see them. After the performance, we took a guided tour of their stables, where the equines are treated like the stars they truly are. Each horse has its own rider, who trains it from a young age and stays with the horse until it retires. We got a look at their fancy show tack, including bridles and saddles, and learned about their lives. We weren’t allowed to pet them, which I understand because strangers could make them sick, but it was hard to keep my hands in my pockets. The tour was supposed to last an hour but actually was only 37 minutes, which was annoying, but still worthwhile.

And then there were the balls. I was able to get press tickets to see the annual Vienna Philharmonic Ball, which is one of the most sought-after and prestigious in the city. Tickets go on sale in January. This year, the 100-year-old event sold out in only 80 minutes, according to the ball director, Paul Halwax.

Each year, workers remove all the seating from the elegant, gilded Musikverein — the concert hall where the famed Vienna Philharmonic plays — and turn it into a ballroom that can hold some 2,600 people. And we felt like we encountered all of them, as the elegantly attired guests were crammed cheek-to-jowl in the huge space. In addition to the main ballroom, there were bars and other places to hear music and dance the night away, and I mean that literally. Vienna balls generally start around 9 p.m. with a processional of white-clad debutantes dancing, and then continue all night until 4:30 or 5 a.m. punctuated by special events such as ballet or opera performances.  Afterward, attendees ignore their sore feet and head out to get traditional Vienna sausages for breakfast before going home.

The most elegant balls, like the Philharmonic, are unyielding about their dress codes: White tie and tails for men and long evening gowns for ladies. Some balls allow tuxedos as well. People who turn up underdressed are turned away with regrets. Every year, some ladies show up in short cocktail dresses, and are sometimes irate at being refused entry, even though every venue, often even the tickets themselves, describe the dress code in advance. The Philharmonic ball, ever solicitous of its elite guests, provides seamstresses, hairdressers and cosmeticians on site for emergency repairs.

Vienna is known as the city of balls, and some 400 are held annually, sponsored by trade associations or other groups. The official ball season starts on Nov. 11 at 11:11 a.m. Most of the balls are held in carnival season of January and February, ending by Ash Wednesday, but there are some outliers at other times as well. Generally, anyone can buy a ticket to a ball, but be warned that they typically sell out.

For this trip, I had to break my cardinal cheapskate rule of never paying to check a bag at the airport, because bringing an evening gown (actually two, because I bought one for the opera as well)- was impossible in my tiny carry-on bag.

Keep this in mind, though: Regular tickets only get you in the door, to watch and dance. If you want a place to sit, you need to reserve a seat at a table. This will cost considerably more, but it’s well worth it when your tootsies are sore and you need a break. Waiters are also on hand to bring food and drink, at additional cost. Champagne is by far the most popular option. Tickets for table seats are often for sale before regular tickets. There are typically also fancy boxes for sale, with as you can imagine, higher prices.

Being cheapskates, we didn’t have seats, so by 1:30 a.m. our dogs were barking. But, surprisingly, the fairy tale atmosphere was so enchanting that I didn’t even feel tired, but our bodies couldn’t take any more.

The following night, we repeated the magical experience, this time in the Hofburg Palace. The Coffeehouse Owners Ball is so vast that it takes over all the ballrooms in the palace. With more space, it was less crowded than the night before, so cooler. The orchestra in the main ballroom, which accomodated thousands of dancers, played waltzes and also other dances, even sedate rock ‘n’ roll. Other smaller ballrooms offered more dancing, including sambas, tangos, swing and more. Later in the evening, a jazz club and disco opened. The entire place remained buzzing until the wee hours, but again we had to reluctantly leave as our aching feet disappointed us.

Incidentally, Vienna was the first place I ever drank real, delicious dark roast coffee all those years ago, long before it became popular in the U.S. In fact, the aromatic beverage is practically a sacrament in Vienna, which is why there’s a ball dedicated to it. The menu at our hotel breakfast offered us nine different varieties, with lattes, espressos and other drinks with which I wasn’t acquainted.

The next day, after two balls in a row, I scarcely got out of my comfy hotel bed except to get downstairs in time for free breakfast. I’m old, after all. Even in my sleep, I was still humming the waltzes I’d heard. In fact, I’m still humming them to this day.

When I planned this adventure, I presumed it would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. But now, I’m even considering doing it again. The balls were so grand and overwhelmingly beautiful. The winter season in January means no crowds at any tourist attraction. We walked right into museums that have long lines in the summer.

But brrrr…it’s so darn cold! There’s no lingering strolls and window shopping, at least not for these weenie California girls. And Vienna is a city of beautiful gardens, all of which were cold and dead in January.

This is something I must contemplate further, although I know I’ll be back to Vienna again, and hopefully soon. It is a magical place.

If you go:

• What’s in a name? Vienna is the city’s English name, but it’s called Wien (pronounced veen) in German. Also note that nearly all Austrian tourism websites have a toggle at the top that will allow you to translate them into English.
• Spanish Riding School: Make sure you have advance reservations to see the stallions. Buy tickets here: srs.at/en
• Music: The main opera house is the Wiener Staatsoper, a spectacular palace of music that has performances of various types most every night. wiener-staatsoper.at, The other main opera house is the Volksoper Wien, which hosts operas, operettas and musicals. volksoper.at There are too many music venues to list here, but the most famous is the Vienna Philharmonic, one of the world’s greatest orchestras, which performs at the Musikverein.
• Balls: Vienna is known as the city of balls, and its estimated that some 400 are held annually. Generally, anyone can buy a ticket to a ball, which does not include seating. Tickets are already on sale for next January’s Coffeehouse Owners Ball. at kaffeesiederball.at.
• Museums: Vienna has a dizzying number of museums, including spectacular former palaces. You can also visit the homes of famous people, including Mozart, Beethoven, Haydn, Strauss and Sigmund Freud.
• Where to stay: We liked the mid-priced boutique Hotel Kaiserhof, which has an elevator, bar, room service, breakfast buffet and friendly staff. It’s located in the Fourth District, close to public transportation and the historic attractions in the First District. hotel-kaiserhof.at/wien