Black History Month Recipe: Macaroni and Cheese
Another popular American dish that owes its popularity to Black chefs of the past is macaroni and cheese.
“Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States, is often credited with popularizing macaroni and cheese, and French cuisine in general, in the country. However, it was actually enslaved chef James Hemings, who, through his skills and labor, enabled Jefferson to serve fine French cuisine, including macaroni and cheese, to his guests,” writes Anela Malik, author of “American Soul: The Black History of Food in the United States” (National Geographic, $40).Hemings, who was enslaved under Jefferson, trained in France for three years and was considered to be one of the best-trained chefs in America at the time. He returned and worked as a chef for Jefferson, who was then Secretary of State, and received his freedom in 1796, only after training someone else in the household to cook well.
“Based on historical records, macaroni and cheese was a frequent meal served at Monticello; Jefferson imported dozens of pounds of macaroni between the 1790s and his death in 1826,” Malik writes.
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Macaroni and Cheese
Yield: Serves 8
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound elbow macaroni
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder
1 teaspoon mustard powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of nutmeg
3 cups whole milk
1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk
6 ounces smoked Gouda, shredded
8 ounces extra-sharp cheddar, shredded
8 ounces Gruyère, shredded
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Coat a 3 1/2-quart casserole dish with cooking spray. In a large pot, cook macaroni in boiling salted water until al dente, according to package instructions. Drain macaroni and return noodles to pot. Add 1 tablespoon butter and stir until melted.
Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add flour and stir until well incorporated, 2 to 4 minutes. Add garlic powder, mustard powder, onion powder, smoked paprika, pepper and nutmeg and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Whisk in whole and evaporated milks and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, until thickened, 3 to 5 minutes.
In a medium bowl, toss Gouda, cheddar and Gruyère. Measure 2/3 cup of cheese mixture and set aside. Add remaining cheese to the saucepan and stir until melted, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir macaroni into the cheese sauce, then transfer to the prepared casserole dish. Top everything with the reserved 2/3 cup of cheese. Bake until the edges are bubbly and the top is golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes.
— Recipe reprinted with permission from “American Soul: The Black History of Food in the United States” by Anela Malik and Renae Wilson (National Geographic, $40)