Restaurant review: Welcoming traditional Cyprus food on a cold night
Minutes before we walked into Gourmet Taverna, we had tasted disappointment elsewhere, having visited a different, much-hyped restaurant, only to find out that the only seating they had available was as comfortable and well-situated as a granite park bench in a supermarket parking lot. Back out into the wind and rain we went, in search of something better.
Mercifully, it did not take long. A short walk brought us outside the quaint Gourmet tavern, where we perused the menu and chatted with the host. Perhaps it was the Cockney accent, which, admittedly, lends itself to good salesmanship, or maybe it was the food on offer. Whatever it was, we stepped into the restaurant.
The tavern, on more than one level, blends tradition with modernity. The aesthetics unequivocally befit a local restaurant: wood, stone, soft lighting, decorative items that harken back to older, simpler times. But there’s a newness to it all, a neatness that is more reminiscent of contemporary establishments. It works. And the crowd? A blend of international and local, although I imagine this balance may change during the peak summer months.
We started simple. A village salad, some kolokithokeftedes (zucchini fritters for the uninitiated) and a glass of house red. The restaurant also brought out some bread and butter, which will never be sent away from this writer’s table. For a base option, the wine was lovely. We found out after the fact that it was called Saint Fotios, a maratheftiko from Kolios, a winery from the Paphos district. You can’t go wrong with these ingredients, can you? Special mention for the fritters, which were excellent. Served with Greek yogurt sauce, they were flavourful, fluffy, and light for a fried item. And honestly? Add some fries as a side and they could make a nice vegetarian main, if you’re not feeling too ravenous.
Onto the mains, we were told that the special of the day was duck à l;orange, while the suckling pig was described as one of the restaurant’s best sellers. Nevertheless, we opted for the stifado, a slow-cooked Cypriot stew, and the kleftiko, again, an item that takes patience to cook.
The kleftiko, however, was not all-the-way traditional. Instead of several small or medium-sized chunks of meat and potatoes, it was served as one large lamb shank over mashed potatoes, vegetables and a generous serving of gravy. The gravy is definitely not in line with Cypriot cooking but it was delectable and a welcome twist on a classic dish.
The stifado, which we were told is cooked using Irish beef (sláinte mhaith), was similarly excellent; tender, rich and very comforting on a cold winter night. It is also served with vegetables and mashed potatoes (albeit on a separate plate), although you can ask the restaurant for substitutes.
Finally, we decided to share a dessert, and opted for what they call Maria’s cake. A traditional, siropiasto (syrup-soaked) cake with orange sauce. Even without the sauce, the flavour profile is dominated by orange zest and semolina. It is topped with vanilla ice cream, itself garnished with mint. If you like soft, sweet cakes with strong citrus scents, this is for you. And yes, it is rich enough to share.
As for the service, staff were warm, friendly and polite, happy to answer any questions about ingredients and allergens. All in all, an excellent experience. Would definitely revisit.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY: Cyprus cuisine
WHERE: Gourmet Taverna, Dionysou 1-2, Paphos
WHEN: Daily, 2pm-10pm
CONTACT: 26 933626
HOW MUCH: €6-19 for appetizers, €17-38 for mains