Learn how to make dumplings for Lunar New Year with Minyoli's Rich Wang

Minyoli in Andersonville does not typically offer dumplings on its menu.

“It’s a labor-intensive process, which is not sustainable for us,” said chef Rich Wang, owner of the 50-seat Taiwanese restaurant at 5420 N. Clark St. in Andersonville. “But for one day, I'm able to stay up until three in the morning to make it happen.”

For one night only, on Feb. 17 — the first day of Lunar New Year — Minyoli will serve dumplings while hosting a special collaboration with Chicago-based Cantonese American pastry chef Jaye Fong of Maa Maa Dei, in celebration of the Year of the Horse. The special menu will blend Cantonese-style Lunar New Year pastries with Minyoli’s juancun (the name given to military family settlements retreating from mainland China and settling in Taiwan) dishes and be complemented by holiday-inspired cocktails.

Though eaten throughout the year, dumplings have become synonymous with Lunar New Year celebrations. Z.J. Tong, founder and president of the Chicago Chinese Cultural Institute, points to its shape as one reason why.

“It’s very similar to the ancient Chinese gold currency called jin yuanbao,” said Tong, “which is shaped like a boat and is referred to as gold ingot. When people make dumplings, it’s like they’re making money. And when people are eating the dumpling in the shape of an ingot, it’s like they’re bringing wealth into their system.”

Dumplings have become a symbol for wealth, good luck and prosperity.

Wang, who has worked at critically acclaimed kitchens such as Boka, will begin prep a few days before the Lunar New Year dinner to ensure 300 handmade dumplings are ready in time. The process breaks down into four parts: dough preparation, filling preparation, rolling and folding, and cooking.

From start to finish, Wang estimates the process takes two to three hours, not including the overnight rest for the filling. It’s a food item he has spent more than 30 years perfecting. Beginners unfamiliar with how to make and fold the dough will take longer to create those warm pouches known for wrapping juicy bits of minced meat, tender seafood and crunchy vegetables into bite-sized pockets of flavor. Wang says dumpling making is not seen as a chore but rather as a social event where the whole family participates.

It’s also a family tradition for Tong.

“In my family, I’m always the one making the dough because I'm the youngest out of three children, so nobody else wanted to,” said Tong with a laugh. “My mom always made the fillings because that’s the most important part of the dumpling. My brother was a master wrapper maker. They’re round, even, and he does it very fast. My sister and aunt make it into the shape of that jin yuanbao. Once done, my father is usually the one in the kitchen cooking it and then calling everybody to eat. It’s very much a family tradition.”

The process can move along faster when more people are involved. “The more the better,” said Wang. “It's akin to the Mexican tradition of making tamales.”

There are two types of dumplings: tangyuan, which resembles ping-pong balls, and jiaozi, a coin-purse-type shape. Wang’s dinner menu will feature the latter, colloquially known as a Chinese dumpling, which is common in northern China. The stuffing will be seasoned beef and shredded daikon radish.

“I learned to make jiaozi from my family, specifically family from my dad’s side,” said Wang. “My dad’s family were northern Chinese war refugees from Henan. They were in the military and followed KMT [the Chinese Nationalist Party] to Taiwan after the Chinese civil war. The dumplings we make at home are of northern Chinese style, specially from the Henan area. But we don't just eat jiaozi exclusively; we eat tangyuan as well.”

Along with dumplings, guests can expect Henanese vegan croquettes made of fried greens, and a Chinese borscht noodle soup. For dessert, salted egg yolk shortbread cookies and nian gao, a traditional Chinese sweet, sticky rice cake symbolizing prosperity and growth for the new year, round out the meal. Guests can order à la carte or opt for the full set menu at a discounted price.

“After immigrating to Chicago, Taiwanese cuisine and people have low visibility and representation,” said Wang. “This is my desire to create the flavor that I remember from my childhood and share that with my neighbors in Chicago. This is home now.”

Beef Dumplings

Yield: Makes 100

For the filling
2 pounds ground beef
1 cup boiling water
1 ½ ounces Sichuan peppercorn
Four bunches scallion white, diced
1 ½ ounces ginger, rough chopped
2 pounds napa cabbage
4 teaspoons salt, divided into 2 teaspoons and 2 teaspoons
4 bunches scallion greens, diced
4 teaspoons ground white pepper
1/2 cup soy sauce
½ cup sesame oil

For the wrappers*
12 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup potato starch
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 cup neutral oil
3 1/4 cups cold water

For serving
Soy sauce
Rice vinegar
Minced garlic

Directions

To make the filling, make allium water by soaking Sichuan peppercorn, scallion white and ginger in hot water for 30 minutes. Hand squeeze the allium intermittently to release more flavor compounds. Strain to get allium water. Discard the solids.

Peel and rough small dice napa cabbage, salt with the first batch of salt and mix well. After 30 minutes, squeeze out excess water with cheesecloth.

Mix ground beef, second batch of salt, and white pepper evenly. Add in allium water in three batches. Mix until water is completely absorbed.

Add soy sauce and mix evenly, then add sesame oil and mix evenly.

Lastly add scallion green and napa cabbage and mix evenly. Store filling in fridge overnight.

To make the wrapper dough, mix all dry ingredients evenly.

Add oil and mix well.

Add water in three batches and mix well in between.

Once all the water is added, knead until the mixing bowl is clear of all dry ingredients. Divide the dough to 4 equal portions (for easy kneading) and rest doughs for 10 minutes

Knead briefly to make the doughs more uniform and smoother (takes no longer than 1 minute of kneading for each dough).

Knead the doughs two more times. Rest the doughs one last time for 10 minutes.

Roll the dough into a long rope, then cut into individual 3/4 inch portions (you should have about 25 portions).

Roll out individual wrapper with rolling pin in dominant hand and rotate the dough with the other hand. You want a round wrapper with roughly 4 inches in diameter, with thinner sides and a thicker dimple in the middle. That way when the dumpling is made, the pleats on top will have even thicknesses of dough and have an even texture. Sprinkle a little cornstarch on the wrappers to prevent sticking. (You can use a pasta sheeter and ring mold to achieve similar results, but you won't be able to get the thicker dimple in the middle, and my ancestors will be rolling in their graves.)

To make the dumpling, place a wrapper in hand and dab the perimeter with a little water. Use a tablespoon to scoop the filling into the dough and seal the dumplings with pleats. There are no right or wrong ways to fold a dumpling. What I do is fold in half and close the top point first, and start from the edge to go towards the middle, making about two or three pleats each side, 4-6 pleats total per dumpling. The important part is to make sure the pleats are actually sealed.

They are now ready to cook or can be frozen to be steamed at a later time.

To cook the dumplings, simmer the freshly made dumplings for 5 minutes (6 minutes if cook from frozen).

Mix 1 parts soy sauce and rice vinegar and minced garlic to your preference and serve.

*You can cut this recipe down proportionately (to make a quarter batch or half batch if you don't want to make 100 dumplings at one time). While fresh dumplings are best, my family always makes extra and freezes the rest for future enjoyment; just make sure to freeze in a single layer with extra space in between dumplings on a sheet pan before transferring to a freezer bag after it's completely frozen. You can also use store-bought wrappers, which are widely available in Chinese supermarkets, if you don't want to make the dough from scratch, but the quality difference is obvious.