Restaurant review: Generous brunch with a view

Saturday brunch was meant to be simple. Sunshine, outdoor seating, a slow start to the weekend. Then the dust rolled in, and the idea of sitting outside became far less appealing. With a mild sense of panic we needed somewhere indoors that could seat five of us at short notice.

The rooftop at the Rise Hotel has clearly been reimagined. What was once a quiet, almost empty buffet space has been transformed into something called Memories, and the difference was immediate. Walking in, the place was buzzing. Every indoor table was taken, the outdoor section was full too, and the room was alive.

The menu arrived in the form of a large placemat, packed with options. Almost too many. This is the kind of menu that makes you pause, scan, go back to the top, and then start again. I’d already seen a few dishes online that had caught my eye, so I went hunting for those first. Everything sounded good, and narrowing it down was harder than expected.

I’m always tempted by Eggs Benedict, but I’ve had it enough times to want something different when the opportunity arises. The koulouri Thessaloniki with poached egg, cream cheese and smoked turkey sounded excellent. The waffle section was equally tempting, though committing to something sweet as a main always gives me pause. My in-laws and my dad didn’t hesitate for a second. All three went straight for the English breakfast, advertised as the real deal with bacon, eggs, sausages, mushrooms, beans and hash browns.

What really caught my attention was one of the newer additions to the menu. A bacon cinnamon waffle topped with cinnamon-glazed chestnuts, forest fruits, flavoured cream and bacon. It sounded completely chaotic on paper, but also strangely brilliant. In the end, though, I landed on the Strawberry Madame. I’m not usually drawn to croque madame-style dishes, but this one was different. Toasted bread layered with strawberry jam, bacon, cheddar, edam, béchamel, aromatic herbed oil and a fried egg. Sweet and savoury together, multiple cheeses, and enough going on to hold my interest. I did ask to swap the fried egg for a poached one. Almost immediately after ordering, I glanced back at the menu and regretted not choosing the bacon cinnamon waffle instead. My partner ordered the Emerald Benedict with crispy bacon.

The food didn’t take long to arrive, considering how busy it was. The first thing to hit the table was what we assumed was a sharing English breakfast, served in a two-handled pan and piled high with bacon, mushrooms, sausages and eggs. Then another arrived. And another. It was an enormous amount of food, and if you arrive truly hungry and want to leave completely full, this is the thing to order. The bacon, in particular, stood out for its quality.

Next came my Strawberry Madame. It arrived stacked high, almost tower-like, with the béchamel and melted cheese sitting perfectly on top and my poached egg balanced neatly in the centre. It looked impressive without being overdone. The Emerald Benedict was equally photogenic, neatly assembled and glossy with sauce.

I cut into my poached egg slowly and was rewarded with exactly what I’d hoped for. A rich, golden yolk spilling down the sides and pooling on the plate. The contrast of sweet strawberry jam with salty bacon and savoury cheese worked beautifully. The béchamel was used with restraint, and the whole thing felt indulgent without being heavy. The Benedict eggs were slightly more jammy than runny, but still enjoyable.

To my left, I noticed an empty pan where my dad’s English breakfast had been. He’d offered me some bacon earlier and now sat back, completely content, announcing that this was officially his new favourite brunch spot. Plates were cleared. The only disappointment was that there was absolutely no room left to try any of the waffles or pancakes we’d been eyeing earlier.

If there was one thing that stopped the experience from being flawless, it was the noise. With the place so full and the ceilings so high, the chatter really carried. The background music was pleasant enough, but it was competing with the volume of the room rather than complementing it.

That said, between the food, the excellent service, and the sea view just beyond the windows, it was a fantastic brunch and one I’d happily repeat. At least one good thing came out of that dust storm!

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Brunch – international

WHERE Memories, The Rise Hotel, Kimonos 1, Larnaca

WHEN Wednesday to Monday 11am to 3pm

CONTACT 96 022000 (or book online via their website)

HOW MUCH English breakfast, Strawberry Madame and Emerald benedict all €11