Miami Beach still knows how to celebrate

I’m a Capricorn from Wisconsin, which means my birthday arrives at the coldest, darkest time of the year — when people stay close to home, not linger over dinner or celebrate anything at all. So this time around, after a hellish year for myself, and frankly, the entire country, I decided Vitamin D was a requirement: I needed to go somewhere warm.

Miami, where a friend of mine is based, seemed like the obvious choice.

The city delivered on spectacle. I celebrated my birthday at a gold-flecked restaurant where bananas were fried and layered with horseradish cream, topped with loads of caviar, and served alongside plantain waffles — an indulgence that (despite not being my cup of tea) certainly was celebratory in every way.

I’d passed through the Miami area before — briefly, on the way to or from cruises — enjoying the food and warmth without ever settling in. This time, I had a whole week to spend with two of my favorite humans. We stayed in Miami Beach but ventured into the city and the greater Miami area. Miami is bursting with things to do, from nature escapades to lazy days spent poolside, with a wide range of restaurants offering indulgence after indulgence to spendthrift patrons, plus some of the best customer service you’ll experience.

There were oceanfront balconies, endless rain, and spectacular adventures with my wife and our friend, which will provide lasting memories. Even when the weather didn’t cooperate, Miami did.

What follows is a guide to where we stayed, ate and wandered — and why Miami, even when it rains, is a place that knows how to celebrate.

Where to stay

Maison Felix – Tucked into quieter North Beach, this recently opened 29-room boutique hotel feels like a private oasis. Lush trees, flowering plants, and shaded courtyards frame the two-story property, whose centerpiece is a sparkling walk-in pool with direct access from lower-floor rooms and balconies overlooking the courtyard.

Our bed was comfortable, bathroom spacious, with double sinks and a rainshower, and the room spacious. Interiors are moody yet playful: turquoise accents, burnt-orange walls, and curated furnishings and art. The beach is just a few blocks away, and the hotel can arrange umbrellas and chairs if you prefer a day in the sun.

Loews Miami Beach – At the heart of bustling South Beach, Loews recently completed a major renovation, redesigning its 790 rooms across two towers and introducing new dining concepts. Our rooms were outfitted in calm, airy colors, with a super comfortable bed and a unique standout: an oceanfront balcony that feels secure even if you’re afraid of heights like I am, offering expansive views of the pool and Atlantic beyond.

Rao’s Miami Beach is the most famous on-site option — reserve early if you want a table — but The Sushi Bar, Bistro Collins, and Preston’s Market for breakfast round out the dining offerings.

For some much-needed downtime with friends, book an adults-only SOAK cabana: a private air-conditioned indoor space with your own personal bathroom and shower, a semi-private hot tub, rooftop sun lounge, and on-demand drinks delivered straight to you. We loved the whole coconut, spiked with rum, and the beautiful burger we quickly demolished.

Le Particulier Miami – This newly opened Mid-Beach gem embraces Art Deco whimsy with pastel pinks and purples, brass accents and flamingo-covered wallpaper. Rooms are modest but comfortable, offering a quiet base for days spent on the water or wandering the city. The hotel is still ironing out minor kinks—sticky door codes, a slippery entrance in the rain, an unfinished on-site restaurant—but its location and attentive service make it a practical, stylish and affordable alternative to the flashier options.

Where to eat

Barra Vieja – Barra Vieja is a coastal Mexican restaurant in the heart of Doral, just outside of Miami. A seafood-forward menu is served in a beautiful dining room that continues the coastal theme, with blue walls, light-colored wood and an airy atmosphere. The drinks are excellent, whether you opt for a frozen margarita with a Tajin rim in an assortment of flavors or any of the other fruit-forward options on the menu.

It’s an excellent restaurant to enjoy with friends, allowing you to sample more of the extensive menu. We especially enjoyed the chunky guacamole served with crispy pork belly, the yellowfin tuna tostados served with a pepita salsa matcha, and the butterflied bronzino served with a tomato avocado salsa and house-made tortillas. Though the meal took a while, the service was excellent — and the wait was spent thoroughly enjoying the little bit of warmth we could and wonderful company.

Ikigai Sushi Bar -Ikigai Sushi Bar sits on a small, man-made island just off downtown Miami. No boat required — just a short walk or ride across a bridge, and you’re there. The restaurant is the latest from Grupo Ikigai, which operates 12 restaurants in Mexico City and is led by chef and partner Ignacio Carmona, who trained in Japan.

Inside, the dining room is light, modern, and airy—an easy place to settle in and feast. The nigiri is where Ikigai really shines, but start with the freshly grated wasabi, especially if you’ve never tried it before. It’s magical. Splurge on the ikura, marinated and served in half a lemon, which you squeeze into the roe for a bright, decadent bite. Other standouts included flamed A5 wagyu topped with foie gras and melt-in-your-mouth hamachi in yuzu and soy, finished with serrano and a dollop of sriracha.

Skip the maki and hand rolls and opt instead for the mixed tempura, featuring shrimp (no heads), fish and peppers. The batter is delightfully airy, everything perfectly cooked, and a delicious addition to the meal.

La Cañita Beach – Right across from the beach with a lovely outdoor seating area, the vibe and service at La Cañita Beach are immaculate. It’s open for lunch, which we enjoyed, but I do wish we had gone for dinner, when live music fills the restaurant. The menu takes inspiration from the Caribbean and South America, but really leans into the Cuban cuisine for which Miami is known.

We especially enjoyed the empanadas criollas, beef with olives and raisins and deboned whole-fried yellowtail, served with Haitian pikliz, a pickled vegetable condiment, and Guasacaca, a Venezuelan avocado salsa. We sat outside under a roof, enjoying the weather while being protected from the rain that followed us throughout our trip.

Uchiko Miami Beach – There’s nothing traditional about Uchiko Miami Beach. The Japanese-inspired restaurant offers an extensive sushi menu and much more, all set inside a striking space with ample seating, a green-tiled bar, layered textures, an open-concept kitchen, and plenty of greenery and warm wood.

Nigiri arrives already dressed, accompanied by specific instructions on how to enjoy it, and the fish truly melts in your mouth. The selection is impressive, too, including Tasmanian trout—something I haven’t seen elsewhere. The maki rolls are flavorful, the crudo bright and refreshing, and there are plenty of vegetable-forward dishes as well, like tempura eggplant and kombu carrots.

Don’t skip the hearth-charred steaks, even if the portions lean smaller. We loved the coulotte, served with roasted kale purée and bok choy, which felt positively decadent. Dessert rarely steals my heart, but the brûléed banana sundae—made with coconut banana sorbet and crisp plantain chips—was incredible, and the perfect way to end the meal.

ORO – I celebrated my birthday at ORO, where the experience—particularly the service—was as memorable as the setting itself. The restaurant is unapologetically gilded, from the walls to the Japanese kintsugi–inspired plates, which reference the tradition of repairing broken pottery with gold. There’s a rooftop terrace, as well as a sprawling second-floor dining room, where we soaked up one of the rare warm, dry evenings we had in Miami.

ORO delights in doing things a little differently. Its bananas-and-caviar service is a case in point: fried bananas layered with horseradish cream and topped with two ounces of ossetra caviar, served alongside plantain waffles and a fermented banana-peel butter. It was theatrical and unexpected—more successful for some at the table than others—but undeniably memorable.

The rest of the meal leaned indulgent and playful. Birria gyoza arrived swimming in bone marrow consommé, delivering a concentrated hit of richness. Ora King salmon crudo was dressed in passionfruit aguachile with Tabasco oil, while a uni carbonara used creamy sea urchin in place of guanciale, finished with smoked trout roe.

We ended the night with ORO’s dessert omakase, a sweeping sampling from the restaurant’s extensive pastry menu, complete with a candle. Desserts, sauces, fruit, and ice cream arrived arranged on a custom gold tray—equal parts presentation and practicality, holding each component neatly in place.

Apocalypse BBQ – What began as a side hustle at the start of the pandemic, Apocalypse BBQ brings Caribbean and South American flavors to the world of barbecue. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations, and the internet will warn you that weekend seating is nearly impossible. But at noon on a Wednesday, tables were open and diners were ushered right in.

The menu feels comfortingly familiar—smoked brisket, wings, pulled pork, sausage, and all the sides you’d expect—but it’s the sauces that really deliver the flavors Apocalypse is celebrating. We all loved the pork ribs, rubbed with cafecito, smoked to perfection, and finished with a sticky oro negro barbecue sauce. And I don’t usually like ribs.

Cornbread arrives shaped like the restaurant’s skull logo, studded with whole corn kernels and drizzled with honey (a step I’d personally skip). I’m a mac-and-cheese loyalist, and Apocalypse’s version—loaded with scallions and bacon bits—did not disappoint.

STK Steakhouse – STK Steakhouse is a dimly lit, high-glam space dressed in cherry blossoms and a black-and-white palette, anchored by white leather round booths. Located inside the 1 Hotel on South Beach, it’s a popular destination serving a classic steakhouse menu. While starters include salads, a raw bar, and more, it was the crab cake that truly delighted me—and it was excellent.

Steaks are the centerpiece here, arranged by size on the menu, with Australian and Japanese wagyu also on offer. We went with a ribeye, paired with macaroni and cheese, Brussels sprouts, and another standout: creamy mashed potatoes.

What really set STK apart, though, was the service. We laughed, joked, and genuinely enjoyed ourselves, but in a way that elevated the experience rather than distracting from it. Dessert was the Cloud, a cotton candy-based treat arriving with a flambéed, Instagram-worthy presentation—and it was just as tasty as it was shareable.

What to do

Unrivaled – Unrivaled in a relatively new women’s basketball league in its second season, primarily based in the Miami Metro area. All games are played at the newly minted “Sephora Arena” in a three-by-three configuration, resulting in high-energy, fast-paced games. If you love women’s sports, basketball — or can never get through a more traditional basketball game — you need to get tickets if you’re in the area. Frankly, I’ve never been much into basketball, but this was a blast.

Boat Charter – When in Miami, getting on the water is simply a non-negotiable. And if you’re traveling with friends, a private boat charter from GetYourGuide is in order (just pay close attention to the extra fees in the listing). The 27′ Crownline has enough seating for 10 people, both in the front and the back of the boat, along with a few seats under an awning, perfect for rain or hiding from the midday sun.

A cooler with ice is provided, so bring all the snacks and beverages your heart desires for a few hours on the water. Now, it was pouring rain when we went out, but that didn’t stop us, and we had a hell of a time.  We were determined to make it to Raccoon Island, and along the way spotted dolphins, iguanas, carnivorous birds and more, both coming and going.

Angel Nail Salon –  A spa day is always a good day, especially when you’re spending time with friends—and it doesn’t have to break the bank. Angel Nail Salon, just 10 minutes from Apocalypse BBQ, offers hair and nail services at a great price point, making it an ideal stop for manicures, pedicures, or even a blowout before a night out.

I rarely straighten my mop of thick, curly hair, and when I do, it’s not always a great experience. That wasn’t the case here. My hair was washed, blown out, and flat-ironed—and it lasted more than five days. My wife and friend both got manicures and left with perfectly polished nails. The pedicure was fine, though it was the one service I wasn’t completely thrilled with—but at such a reasonable price point, there wasn’t much to complain about. Bonus: they offer an impressive nail polish selection that’s easy to browse online, so you can choose your exact shade before you even arrive.

J’Adore Miami Beach – J’Adore serves dinner, but that’s not where the restaurant truly shines. It’s the music, the curated productions, the cocktails, and the standout service that make J’Adore a can’t-miss South Beach destination.

From Thursday through Sunday, J’Adore hosts themed, cabaret-style performances staged right on the bar at the center of the dining room. Each night brings a different vibe — Thursdays feature burlesque, Fridays transform into Havana Night with Latin music and dance, and the themes continue throughout the weekend. Sip on a cocktail, enjoy a bite (the perfectly seared scallops are a standout), and settle in as performers sing, twirl, and shimmy just inches from your seat.

The showmanship, glamour, costumes, and live vocals are genuinely breathtaking, and before long, you may find yourself invited to join the fun on the dance floor. Before you leave, don’t forget to look up — the ceiling is a masterpiece in its own right.

Everglades Airboat Ride – The Everglades are just 45 minutes from Miami Beach and absolutely worth the trip. On a previous visit, we booked seats on a public airboat and had a blast—but saw zero alligators, much to our disappointment. This time, we went with a private airboat through Viator, and wow—the experience was incredible. We spotted four alligators and a flurry of birds, including Great Blue Herons, Sandhill Cranes, and even Purple Gallinules. It was breezy, relaxing, and the perfect way to spend a morning immersed in nature.

Flamingo Gardens – If you don’t get a chance to see flamingos in the wild (and even if you do), Flamingo Gardens is a must. This 60-acre wildlife sanctuary and botanical garden is beautiful to wander, and you could easily spend a full day exploring. If time is tight, take the free narrated tram ride and stroll through the 25,000-square-foot open-air aviary, home to over 250 injured birds—including pelicans—that can’t be returned to the wild. Flamingo Gardens is just 20 minutes from Fort Lauderdale Airport, making it an excellent pit stop before heading home.

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