How to use cleanser properly – by an expert in skin science
Cleansing has long been an important part of hygiene rituals across cultures. Nowadays, cleansing remains an essential part of daily skincare routines, helping to remove sweat, makeup and old skin cells.
But with skincare routines becoming more and more extensive (and expensive), it can be difficult to know which cleanser to use – and how to use it. The right product can benefit skin health and overall wellbeing, while the wrong product could potentially damage the skin.
What does cleanser do?
Cleansers are designed to clean the surface of the skin. They remove excess oils, dirt and other products – such as makeup or sun cream.
Cleansers can be divided into four base ingredients: soap, detergent, surfactants and emulsifiers. These are all compounds with properties that allow them to solubilise particles – a process which allows particles (such as makeup or dirt) to be dissolved in water. This process separates these particles from the surface of the skin so they can be washed away – leaving the surface of the skin clean.
The first cleansers were soaps. These are relatively harsh on the skin as they strip away the skin’s natural oils, causing dryness or even irritation.
Most modern cleansers contain synthetic detergents, which are less irritating to the skin. Some cleansers also contain a higher proportion of lipids (fats). This prevents the skin from becoming dry by replacing the oils that are removed by cleansing.
When should we cleanse?
How often you should cleanse is a personal matter, depending on factors such as lifestyle, skin type and genetics.
For instance, if you have dry skin, cleansing less frequently or with milder products may suit your skin better. But if you’re someone with oily skin you may want to cleanse more often.
How do you pick the right cleanser?
The type of cleanser that works best for a specific person will vary depending on a whole host of factors such as skin type, age and lifestyle. So what works for one person doesn’t guarantee it will work well for the next.
Cleansers are typically made with a specific base ingredient – such as water or oil. Water-based cleansers remove water-soluble particles, such as dirt and sweat, while oil-based cleansers can remove oil-soluble particles, such as makeup and sun cream. Additional ingredients are also often added to cleansers to help provide specific results.
For example, salicylic acid is often found in cleansers for blemish control. It has anti-inflammatory properties and slows down cell growth.
Benzoyl peroxide, has anti-bacterial properties, which is why it’s useful in treating mild acne.
If you don’t have acne or a skin condition where these compounds have been proven useful, cleansers containing salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide may be unnecessarily harsh and could harm the skin.
Cleansers containing ceramides, which are naturally-occurring lipids that are an important component of the skin barrier, may be a good option for those looking to protect their skin. The addition of ceramides to a cleanser means less of the skin’s natural oils are lost during cleansing.
Why is using the right cleanser so important?
The skin is delicate. If you use ingredients that are too harsh, it could negatively affect the skin.
For instance, soaps and detergents can be harsh on the skin – specifically to the skin’s lipid components, which are key to the skin’s function as a protective barrier.
Harsh cleansers (or cleansing too often) could also potentially disrupt the skin microbiome – the many different types of bacteria, fungi and viruses that live on our skin and are essential to overall skin health. should be fixed now
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If the skin microbiome is disrupted, it could lead to a microbial imbalance, where one bacterial strain grows out of control. This could lead to breakouts or even exacerbate other skin issues, such as eczema.
Dry skin after cleansing may be a sign the skin barrier (the outer layer of dead skin cells that protect the underlying cells from harm) has been damaged. Moisturising after cleansing can combat this. Alternatively, using a cleanser that has a moisturising component – such as ceramides or a micellar water – may be helpful, though it’s still worth monitoring how your skin feels after cleansing.
How do you cleanse properly?
Washing your face with water alone won’t be enough to remove any oil, dirt or makeup that has built up.
Usually a single cleanse will work just fine for removing these things from the surface of the skin – including makeup.
Double cleansing is something that has been popularised by Korean beauty trends. This involves cleansing in two steps – first using an oil-based cleanser, which may work better to remove oily products (such as makeup or sunscreen), and following this up with a water-based cleanser. This procedure is meant to provide a deeper clean, which can be useful.
However, a water cleanser will not be very efficient at removing any residue that may be left behind from the oil cleanser. This could lead to a build-up of the oil-based cleanser which could lead to irritation or breakouts.
When deciding on how to cleanse and which products to use it’s important to consider what will be best for your lifestyle and your skin type. Just be sure your cleanser contains ingredients that allow you to clean your skin without destroying your skin barrier.
Rebecca Wagner receives funding from the Wenner Gren Foundation.