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How to Soften Leather Without Ruining It

Nothing quite has the look and feel of a genuine leather jacket, set of boots, or sofa, and once your leather outerwear is waterproof, getting outside in the snow and rain isn't a big deal. Leather can be luxurious and rugged, but it can also be painfully stiff. Leather jackets, boots, and even furniture can need breaking in before it gets that soft, comfortable feel. You can speed that process along by employing different leather softening techniques. Treating the leather with a conditioner or oil, manually working the leather, and even just wearing it around the house, can help break it in. But use the wrong technique and you can easily end up permanently damaging leather. We tapped Ben Schreiber of Latico Leathers, a New Jersey-based brand that specializes in leather bags and accessories, for advice on how to soften stiff leather safely.

Why Leather Becomes Stiff

Natural drying and moisture loss explained

Real leather is made out of natural animal hide that contains oil and moisture. Over time that moisture and oil will evaporate, causing the fibers in the hide to dry out and harden. “Leather stiffness is mainly caused by a loss of natural oils and moisture over time,” Schreiber says. “So as a piece ages, it's exposed to air, heat and other natural elements that cause these oils to gradually evaporate.”

Tanning methods and leather thickness

Leather’s stiffness is also directly related to the process used to tan the leather. Vegetable tanning, for example, uses natural tannins from plants to tan the leather. This method makes the leather more rigid, which is ideal for leather items that need to hold their shape, such as boots, belts and saddles. Chrome tanning, in comparison, is typically used for garments as it makes the leather softer and pliable.

Leather thickness will also impact stiffness. Thinner leathers that are between 0.4 and 1.2 mm are more pliable, making them ideal for gloves. Thicker leathers between 2.0 and 4.0 mm that are used for boots are stiffer.

Age, storage, and environmental exposure

While regular use can break in leather, causing it to soften, the fibers in leather can dry out and stiffen if not periodically treated with oils. Environmental factors can have a huge impact on leather stiffness. Low humidity, exposure to direct sunlight, and freezing temperatures can cause leather to dry out or stiffen. Poor storage can also impact leather. Storing leather in an airtight bag can cause stiffness. Storing leather in a way that forces it to fold can also create creases in the leather.

Can All Leather Be Softened?

While all leathers can be softened, some respond better to conditioning than others, according to Schreiber. “Full grain definitely responds best as it holds the complete hide structure with all the natural oils, whereas genuine leather and bonded leather have less of the natural structure to work with,” he says.

Full-grain vs top-grain vs bonded leather

All three of these leather types can be softened, but they all require different processes for softening them.

Full grain and top grain leather can be softened using oil-based conditioners, like coconut oil, vaseline, and mink oil.

Bonded leather is more delicate and should only be softened using a damp cloth.

It's important to know what kind of leather you're working with before you get started with conditioning or oiling it, since different types require different care.

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Finished, unfinished, suede, and nubuck leather

These leathers can be softened, but they require very specific techniques to do so effectively and without damaging the leather.

Finished leather already has a protective top coat that prevents conditioners from soaking into the grains. Use a leather cream and gently heat the leather with a hair dryer to allow the oil to penetrate the leather.

Suede and nubuck leather both have a soft napped feel to them and are easily damaged by traditional leather conditioners. Look for a spray conditioner specifically designed for these types of leather.

Unfinished leather can be softened with liquid conditioners or natural oils, but the process will likely darken the color of the leather.

When stiffness is permanent (and why)

Most stiff leather can be softened unless it’s been damaged, Schreiber says. “The key thing to look at is structural integrity,” he says. “If the leather is intact but stiff, it can be brought back to life. Once you see the grain cracking, unfortunately the damage is already done.”

Drying out. When the leather loses all of its moisture and natural oils, it becomes dry and brittle. At this point the leather is permanently damaged and there is no way to soften it.

Heat exposure can also damage the collagen fibers in the leather, effectively cooking them and causing permanent damage that makes the leather stiff.

Water damage can also permanently damage leather. When leather becomes completely saturated, the water washes away all oils in the leather. If it’s allowed to dry too quickly without being properly conditioned, the fibers can clump together and become permanently stiff.

Harsh cleaners can also damage leather by chemically burning it, removing the oils used in the tanning process and leaving the leather permanently damaged and stiff.

Leather Oil vs Leather Conditioner: What Actually Works Best

Neatsfoot oil, mink oil, and other leather oils

Leather oils like neatsfoot and mink oil offer some of the most comprehensive protection for leather. They penetrate deeply into the grain and are excellent at repelling water. They’re also very, very effective at softening leather but are more challenging to use. “Pure oils like neatsfoot or mink oil may work beautifully, but they also require more experience,” Schreiber says. “Too much can darken or oversoften the leather.”

Creams and conditioners

Conditioners and creams not only help to soften leather, but they also restore its natural color and won't darken or discolor it. Creams and conditioners also provide a protective barrier against dirt, water, and UV rays. Plus, they’re safe for a broad range of leather types and easy to apply. “High-quality conditioners are generally safer for at-home softening as they contain the right ratio of oils, waxes and other ingredients that work without over-saturating the leather,” Schreiber says.

Why over-oiling damages leather

Be cautious when oiling or conditioning your leather and avoid overdoing it. Over-conditioning leather can break down the fibers, causing tears and creases. Over-oiling can also clog the leather’s pores, causing it to rot from the inside out. It can even create a moist environment that’s a perfect place for mold growth.

How to Soften Leather Step-by-Step

These leather conditioning methods will help soften even the stiffest leather.

Step 1: Clean the leather first.

Start by dusting off the leather using a lint free cloth. If the leather is dirty, use a leather cleaner to clean away any grime. Allow the leather to dry completely before proceeding to the next step.

Step 2: Choose the right conditioner or oil.

Choosing the right conditioner or oil to soften your leather is key, otherwise you could damage the leather. See above for more details on what type of conditioner or oil to use.

Step 3: Apply sparingly and evenly.

Start by choosing a hidden spot on the leather and rub a small amount of the conditioner into it. Wait about a day and check to make sure the conditioner hasn’t discolored the leather before proceeding with cleaning the entire piece. Apply a small amount of conditioner to a lint free cloth and apply it to the leather. “Work the conditioner in with your hands in a circular motion,” Schreiber says.

Step 4: Let it absorb and rest.

Allow the leather to soak overnight, then wipe off any excess and buff the surface using a clean rag.

Step 5: Gently flex and repeat if needed.

Gently bend and twist the leather to break down internal fibers and work the oil deeper into its pores. Be gentle. Flexing the leather too aggressively can create permanent cracks in it.

How to Soften Specific Leather Items

How to soften leather boots and shoes

In addition to the above methods, you can also soften leather boots and shoes by manually twisting and bending the boot sole and upper with your hands. Put on an extra thick pair of socks and walk around in your house with them to help loosen the leather. “You should avoid forcing leather boots to break in too quickly,” Schreiber says. “Quality leather softens naturally after two to three weeks of regular wear.”

How to soften leather jackets and apparel

Along with using a leather conditioner or natural oil to treat the leather, wearing the leather garment is also very effective. “After conditioning, simply work the leather with your hands, roll the collar, bend the elbows and flex the shoulders,” Schreiber says. “Then your body heat and natural movement will continue the softening process as you wear it.”

How to soften bags, belts, and accessories

Leather bags in particular are susceptible to losing their stiffness if they see infrequent use. Use a high-quality conditioning cream and follow the above steps. After conditioning the bag, stuff it with paper or fabric to stretch the leather slightly, which will help to soften it. You can also hang a stiff leather bag in a steamy bathroom to help loosen the fibers.

Belts are made from thicker leather and can be softened by rolling them or simply wearing them and allowing your movement and body heat to loosen up the leather.

Smaller leather accessories like wallets and watch bands can be conditioned and loosened through use.

How to soften furniture and upholstery leather

Soften furniture by conditioning it using the above methods, then put it into use. Sitting and laying on the furniture helps to stretch the leather fibers while also warming them from your body heat. You can also help protect leather upholstery by keeping humidity between 40 and 60 percent with a humidifier during the winter when air is dryer. It also helps to keep leather upholstery away from heating vents and direct sunlight.

Methods to Avoid

Water soaking and heat

Soaking leather in water or using high heat to soften it can damage leather permanently, according to Schreiber. “If leather gets wet and dries too quickly then the fibers can bond together and create that rigid feel,” Schreiber says. While you’ll find online hacks that recommend using high heat to soften leather, doing so can quickly damage it. “Heat dries out leather even more and could cause irreversible cracking,” Schreiber says.

Alcohol, vinegar, and household chemicals

All three of these household products can cause serious damage to leather. Alcohol will draw moisture out of the leather, dehydrating the fibers while also causing fading and discoloration. Vinegar’s high acidity will strip the oils out of the leather and break down the protective layer on its surface. With their high acidity, commercial household cleaners can break down the fibers in leather and even cause leather to disintegrate. “Also avoid alcohol- and petroleum-based products as they can easily break down leather fibers,” Schreiber says.

Mechanical abuse (over-bending and twisting)

While gently kneading leather can help to make it softer, aggressively bending and twisting leather can mishapen it or even cause permanent cracks.

How Long Does Leather Take to Soften

How long it takes to soften leather depends on the technique and thickness of leather. Conditioning the leather can soften it in a matter of minutes or hours. You can also soften leather in minutes with manual flexing. If you’re trying to soften a leather jacket or pair of boots, the breaking-in period may take a few weeks of daily use for the leather to soften. Schreiber stresses patience when softening leather. “Leather is skin, so it's smart to think of it as you would your own,” he says. “Gentle, gradual care with high-quality products is always the answer.”

How to Keep Leather Soft Long-Term

Regular conditioning schedule

Periodically conditioning leather will help it retain its softness over time. You should condition leather about once every three to six months to help it stay soft.

Proper storage and humidity

When storing leather, make sure to keep it in a place with good air flow. Depriving leather of air will cause it to dry out and crack. You should also store leather in a place where humidity remains consistently between 40 and 60 percent to ensure the leather doesn’t dry out.