Gretchen’s table: Warm winter’s chill with a hot bowl of this tangy and traditional Mexican stew

By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Grocery stores might try to convince you otherwise, but it’s pretty tough to get a decent tomato in Western Pennsylvania in January.

The plump red fruit — preferably homegrown or sourced locally at your favorite farmers market — is at its juicy prime in late summer, forcing tomato lovers either to eat their fill before falls rolls around, and then pine for a “good tomato” all winter long, or roll up their sleeves to chop and freeze a few batches or turn a couple of pecks (or a bushel) into sauce.

But then there are husk tomatoes, or tomatillos. Because the small nightshade fruit is largely grown in its native sunny Mexico, they’re widely available year-round in most major grocery stores and Mexican markets.

Harvested when the fruits are still immature, tomatillos have a fresh tangy scent with hints of citrus (think limes or green tomatoes). They’re denser in minerals than red tomatoes and also a good source of fiber and vitamins A, C and K. A winter “super food,” tomatillos also are high in antioxidants, which help support your immune system and boost overall health.

Because they pair well with garlic, onions, cilantro and chiles, tomatillos are turned into green salsas, sauces or jams. The fruit also plays a starring role in the green version of one of Mexico’s most famous stews, pozole.

This one-pot version of the Mexican classic pulls together in about an hour. It’s made by simmering shredded chicken and canned hominy (dried corn kernels that have been treated with an alkali) in a flavorful broth of garlic, chilies and tomatillos.

I used jalapeño and poblano chiles, but you could swap in serranos for extra heat. The stew also can be made with shredded pork, and some also like to throw in some toasted pumpkin seeds for extra thickness and a velvety texture.

Traditional toppings include sliced radish and/or avocado, shredded cabbage and a salty, crumbly cheese like cotija or queso fresco.

After peeling off the papery husk, you’ll want to give the tomatillos a good rinse under cool water to remove the sticky sap. For extra flavor, slice and roast the fruit in a 400-degree oven until soft and slightly charred (about 15 minutes) or broil for 10 minutes.

Serve the pozole with warm tortillas; for a heartier meal, add a scoop of white or Mexican rice.

Pozole Verde

PG tested

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 large white onion, chopped
• 6 cloves garlic, crushed
• 2 poblano chiles, diced
• 2 jalapeño peppers, chopped
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 bay leaves
• Kosher salt, to taste
• 1/2 pound tomatillos, husked, rinsed and halved
• 1 tablespoon Mexican oregano
• 3/4 bunch fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
• 2 15-ounce cans hominy, rinsed and drained
• 32-ounce container chicken stock or broth
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 4 cups cooked and shredded chicken breast
• Shredded cabbage, to serve
• Queso fresco, to serve
• Sliced radishes, to serve, optional
• Diced avocado, to serve, optional
• Lime wedges, to serve
• Warm flour or corn tortillas, tortilla chips or tostadas, to serve

In a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering.

Add the onion, garlic, poblano peppers, jalapeño peppers, cumin and bay leaves and sauté until the onions are tender, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt.

Transfer the aromatic mixture to a blender and add the tomatillos, oregano and cilantro. Purée the ingredients until smooth.

Transfer the mixture back into the pot over medium-low heat.

Add the hominy and broth or stock, stirring to combine. Generously season the broth with salt and a few grinds of black pepper.

Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce it to a simmer.

Simmer the soup, partially covered, for 40 minutes. Add the shredded chicken and continue to simmer until just warm, about 5 more minutes. Season with additional salt and pepper to taste.

Ladle the pozole into bowls and serve topped with your preferred garnishes and warm tortillas.

Store leftover pozole in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Serves 8.

— Adapted from masterclass.com

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