Peter Lev Was a Climber, Snow Scientist, Father, and Steward of the Mountains

Every January, we share a tribute to members of our community who we lost last year. Some were legends, others were pillars of their community, all were climbers. Read the full tribute to Climbers We Lost in 2025 here.

Peter Lev, 85, April 27

Whether climbing or studying snow and weather, Peter Lev was unwaveringly dedicated to his craft. He often joked that he was a nerd who didn’t fit in with the cool kids, but he always felt at home in the mountains. That sense of belonging led to a 50+ year career as a guide and trusted mentor to many.

Peter passed away on April 27, 2025, at the age of 85, in Portland, Oregon. Born on March 4, 1940, he first discovered climbing while in high school in Los Angeles, California, an interest that led him to enroll at the University of Colorado in 1958.

In the summer of 1960, while still a student at CU, Peter hitchhiked to the Tetons with his climbing partner Dave Dornan. That summer proved to be a watershed moment, as he was introduced to Glenn Exum, owner of Exum Mountain Guides. Peter graduated from the University of Colorado in 1964 with a Bachelor of Arts in Philosophy and committed fully to an unconventional life as a mountain guide. In 1978, he purchased a portion of Exum Mountain Guides, later co-creating what is now Utah Mountain Adventures in 1993 before retiring from Exum in 2006.

Peter was eventually drawn to the granite spires of the Needles in South Dakota. After years of guiding in the Tetons, he grew weary of long approaches with heavy packs and was drawn instead to the lack of crowds and the deep history of the Lakota people (Paha Sapa), which he regarded as a place of spiritual power. He eventually moved to the Black Hills and guided for Sylvan Rocks well into his seventies.

Peter’s climbing took him all over the world and included some notable first ascents including Northwest Corner in 1959 and Vertigo in 1961 in Eldorado Canyon. In 1960, he established what became known as the Lev Route on the east face of the Grand Teton. He was part of the the first ascent of the East Buttress of Denali in 1963; the second ascent and a new direct variation on the north face of Mount Robson in 1969; and a new variation on Chulu West in Nepal in 1978. In the 1980s, he also guided trips to Island Peak and Tent Peak (Tharpu Chuli).

Reflecting on their many years of friends, fellow climber Jed Williamson recalled, “From the day I met Peter in Talkeetna, Alaska, in April of 1963, he was a trusted friend and rope-mate. I always respected his judgment—he was one of the best. Our East Buttress ascent was, we both agree, one of the best.”

Peter also participated in major international expeditions, including the American Dhaulagiri Expedition (1973) and the U.S.–USSR Pamir Expedition (1974), and the American–Indian Nanda Devi Expedition (1976).

Beyond climbing, Peter was deeply devoted to skiing, snow science, weather, and avalanche education. He worked as a ski patroller, instructor, forecaster, and heli-ski guide. His expertise made him a trusted leader in the Wasatch Mountains and on international expeditions.

He was known for his strong opinions, deep curiosity, and insistence on doing things the right way. He was a devoted father to his daughter, Alexandra, and in his later years, he delighted in being a grandfather.

Though he is gone from the peaks, Peter’s spirit lives on in the mountains he loved and in the countless climbers, guides, and friends he inspired. In recognition of his lifetime of service, the American Mountain Guides Association posthumously awarded him their President’s Award.

Read the full tribute to Climbers We Lost in 2025 here.

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