High altitude, new and aged

Kyperounda winery, in the Pitsilia area of Troodos, claims its gravity-fed winery, built on levels in time for the 2003 vintage at an altitude of 1,140m, is one of the highest in Europe. The winery owns a steep four-hectare vineyard around 1,400 to 1,500m above sea level, probably the second highest after a vineyard in the Canary Islands (1,700m).

At this altitude, nights can be so cool even in the hotter months of the year that the 70-plus year-old Xynisteri vines that supply Petritis are generally harvested in November. Kyperounda also grows Lefkada, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Almyra’s Notios Japanese-Mediterranean restaurant recently hosted a dinner for Cyprus Wine Society members at which four wines were used to pair the menu; two vintages of Xynisteri and two with Cabernet Sauvignon.

The dinner started with 2024 Akti Rosé, a blend of 80% Lefkada grape and 20% Mavro. A rosé that had been included in the 2025 Great Wine List, an institution that celebrates the quality and authenticity of Greek and Cypriot viticulture. With its delicate aromas of cherry, pomegranate and herbs and racy acidity, it was ideal as an aperitif. The new vintage is out now and soon readers will be able to find out how is the 2025.

2024 Petritis, Xynisteri, P.G.I. Lemesos, ABV 12.5%

Petrides Xynisteri is the creation of oenologist Minas Mina, now director of Kyperounda Winery. For many years, I supported that Petrides always made from Xynisteri grapes sourced from higher altitude vineyards. A third spends time in used oak, the rest on lees for up to six months. It does show better in older vintages. Its secret is that – do not drink me until I am almost a year old, I reveal myself at older vintages.

The current vintage has a pale yellow colour still with greenish highlights. It demonstrates all the characteristics of the variety with precise stone fruit aromas, a mélange of peach, apricot, pear, with citrus, candied lime, yellow apple and a touch of spice, toast and vanilla as a delicate bouquet of white flowers. Rich taste, almost oily, offering smooth approachable texture due to the oak ageing, with a lively acidity and long-lasting aftertaste and a lingering herbal and fruity finish. Vegan friendly. A versatile white, ideal for pairing with shellfish, fish and seafood-inspired rice dishes.

At Notios, we kept the theme of the Japanese-Mediterranean fusion and the 2024 Petritis was enjoyed with a sushi selection and Soba noodle salad, with Shitake mushroom, pumpkin, pickled red cabbage, chili, sesame soy dressing. €11.50

2018 Petritis, Xynisteri, P.G.I. Lemesos, ABV 12.5%

I have previously sung the praises of aged white wines, of which Kyperounda’s Petrides was the pioneer a few years back. It represents some of the best value Xynisteri wines today and is one of the most accessible entry points into aged white wines.

A pale golden colour. In the glass, the wine exudes a heady bouquet of white river rock, almonds, chamomile notes, white pepper, lemon rind, orange peel, ripe stone fruit in the background. In the mouth, the wine continued to show its complexities, refreshing citrusy acidity alongside savoury herbal notes, oily lemon rind, pear and sawdust. A lengthy finish and balanced alcohol mean this wine will continue to age well for at least another decade. This one is one of the most interesting and delicious white wines I have tried in a long time. Well matched also with Orzo pasta, yellow beetroot, tofu, jalapeno, apple and cashew nuts. Available only at the winery

2022 Kyperounda Winery Psila Klimata, Cabernet Sauvignon, P.G.I. Lemesos, ABV 15%

A dry red 100% from high altitude vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 18 months in 225 and 300 litre French oak. This monovarietal is part of the selected vineyards line produced by Kyperounda Winery. Deep, purple black in colour with expressive and vibrant aromas of ripe red fruits, blackcurrant, crushed blueberry, green peppercorn and leather that are typical of the variety. Well-rounded and complex in the mouth, full bodied, with wonderful richness and depth, a balanced acidity that gives intensity, personality and firm, ripe tannins. The long, savoury flavours provide generosity to the persistent finish.

It has sufficient tannins and structure to be aged for at least 10 more years. Excellent with gastro burger with aged Gouda and bacon, steak and roast or grilled lamb. At Notios, a USDA ribeye steak was marinated in a fragrant blend of fresh herbs and garlic. €15

2016 Kyperounda Winery Psila Klimata, Cabernet Sauvignon, P.G.I. Lemesos ABV 13.5%

Moving on to the last wine, many expected the delicious Kyperounda Commandaria to be served with the dessert, however, the after tasting the Psila Klimata 2016, the Chocolate Coconut Bounty with pineapple, white and bitter chocolate crème and pastellaki crumble was a perfect match. The wine is aged, like 2022, in French oak 225 and 300 litres. Ruby red colour, the nose’s notes include concentrated, savoury aromas of blackberry jam, wild strawberry, cherry, baking spices and creamy vanilla notes. The flavours from the ageing in barrel are well-integrated into the palate, with drying firm tannins, generously giving fruit balance of blackberry and cherry, and mouth-watering acidity to the finish.

Quite special and persuaded many to age some of their red wines longer. Excellent with aged Gouda and Gruyère as well as strong blue cheese, or mushroom ragu, risotto with Portobello mushrooms, roast lamb, ribeye or striploins. Available only at the winery

Kyperounda Winery Griva Digenis 102, Kyperounda, Tel 25 532043