Recipe: How to make a perfect leg of lamb for holiday entertaining

In my childhood home, we had a leg of lamb two Sundays a month. I loved those Sundays, as did my Shetland sheepdog who was the recipient of the leftover bone. Mom’s recipe was simple. The meat was topped with olive oil, salt and pepper prior to roasting.

This recipe takes it up a notch making it the perfect entrée for special occasion holiday entertaining. This approach studs the meat with little “bouquets” made of rosemary sprigs, slivered garlic and anchovies. Don’t be put off by the anchovies; they taste delicious, offering just-right saltiness. Plan ahead when making this version; it tastes best if it is seasoned 1 to 2 days in advance and stored in the refrigerator to let the flavors meld.

My local supermarket rarely carries leg of lamb. I guess it is because it is so darn expensive. Markets such as Whole Foods, Bristol Farms and Gelson’s have them. I tested the recipe using a smaller bone-in leg, one that weighed in at a little less than 4 pounds. I used 2/3 of the amount of garlic, anchovy, rosemary and salt, and reduced the roasting time by about 25 minutes (roasting it only 48 minutes after turning the oven temperature down).

Yes, my guests will get smaller servings, but I will make up for it by providing loads of vegetables.

Roast Leg of Lamb with Anchovy, Rosemary, Garlic and Piment d’Espelette

Yield: 8 to 10

INGREDIENTS

• 1 whole bone-in leg of lamb, 7 to 8 pounds, preferably with hip bone removed, with 1/8-inch layer of fat, see cook’s notes
• 5 large garlic cloves, peeled, cut into thin slivers
• 4 anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry and cut into 20 little pieces
• 4 leafy sprigs rosemary, cut into twenty pieces
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 2 teaspoons piment d’Espelette, see cook’s notes
• 1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 3/4 cup dry white wine or dry vermouth

Cook’s notes: My local supermarket rarely carries legs of lamb. I guess it is because it is so darn expensive. Markets such as Whole Foods, Bristol Farms and Gelson’s have them. I tested the recipe using a smaller bone-in leg for this recipe, one that is severed at the knee, weighing only a little less than 4 pounds. I use 2/3 of the amount of garlic, anchovy, rosemary and salt, and reduced the roasting time by about 25 minutes (roasting it only 48 minutes after turning the oven temperature down). Yes, my guests will get smaller servings, but I make up for it by providing loads of vegetables.

Piment d’Espelette is a brick-red powder made from chilies from the town of Espelette in the Basque region of France. It is milder than cayenne; its light heat is nuanced with sweetness. It is available at Savory Spice Shop in Corona del Mar (928 Avocado Ave.), or from several sources online. If you prefer, substitute hot paprika (not smoked paprika).

DIRECTIONS

1. Using the tip of a paring knife, make 20 small holes on all sides of lamb. Stuff each hole with a sliVer of garlic, a bit of anchovy and a small sprig of rosemary, leaving the tips of the rosemary sticking out. (It may help to gather the seasonings into a little “bouquet” and use the point of the knife to tuck a “bouquet” into each hole.) Season surface with salt and piment d’Espelette. Set in a large baking dish and refrigerate, uncovered or loosely covered, for 1 to 2 days. Let lamb come to room temperature for about 2 hours before roasting.

2. Arrange oven rack in the lower third of oven and heat to 450 degrees (425 degrees convection).

3. Roasting: Rub surface with olive oil. Place lamb with the rounder, meatier side up in roasting pan just large enough to accommodate it (it’s fine if the top of the shank rests on the edge of the roasting pan.) Roast 25 minutes and then pour wine over lamb. Lower temperature to 325 degrees (300 degrees convection). Roast until a meat thermometer inserted in the meatiest part of the leg reaches 120 to 125 degrees for rare, about 1 hour from the time you lowered the oven heat; or 130 to 135 degrees for medium rare, about 1 1/4 hours.

4. Remove lamb to carving board, preferably one with a trough, to rest for 20 to 35 minutes. Tilt roasting pan and spoon off as much of the clear fat as you can. Using a wooden spoon, scrape up the pan drippings (if they are too stuck to the pan to scrape up, add 1/4 cup water to dissolve them). Set aside the pan drippings to drizzle over the carved lamb. Carve and serve drizzled with the pan drippings, or layer the slices in the roasting pan so they soak up the pan juices and serve family style (I really like this soak-in-the-pan approach), from the roasting pan.

Source: Adapted from “All About Roasting” by Molly Stevens (W.W. Norton, $35)