Is there still joy in Nicosia pools?
By Philippa Tracy
The heat in Cyprus has been unbearable. At the start of the week, it was 42C in my car, five minutes after starting the engine, even though the car had been sat in the shade. After no respite for days on end, the temperature finally dropped to the mid 30s. The mid 30s is perhaps bearable here, if you have some decent air-conditioning and a nice pool to cool down in. But for anyone who does not have their own pool, or a house in Protaras, to escape to, it is good to see the Nicosia municipal pool in Ayios Andreas has now finally re-opened after being shut for the last few summers. This and the municipal pool of Lakatamia are the only publicly run pools currently open in Nicosia as the pool in Aglandjia remains closed pending upgrade work.
Right now, Nicosia is starting to feel a bit like Dubai, hot and humid, with very similar temperatures. Facilities wise, less so. Dubai is a place I visited for the first time earlier this year. A place with an urban master plan where a lot of money is spent to ensure a quality visitor experience, as well as offering lots of facilities, experiences and ways to cool down for those that live there. No idea how electricity bills compare, but as an experience, a fabulous infinity pool on the 50th floor of an air-conditioned building with impressive views and a cocktail bar was not too shabby at all (except for those with a fear of heights). Not cheap, but not excessive. Back in Nicosia, the municipal pool seems like a sensible, low-cost way to chill. Or is it?
I went to the Nicosia municipal pool twice in the same week, once on Friday afternoon and again on Sunday morning. The second excursion was not so much keenness to relive the first experience; rather, with a broken air-con in my living room, it was my only real alternative to sitting in a darkened, artificially chilled bedroom for much of the weekend watching reality TV on my laptop. Fortunately, I hadn’t attempted to go the previous Sunday when the pool had to temporarily close again, after “human waste was found” in the main pool. Even though it was apparently the product of a very young child, and the pool was subsequently professionally cleaned, it is still slightly off-putting. I resisted the urge to Google waterborne infectious diseases and public swimming pools.
On a positive note, the entry charges are still very cheap. Apparently, the municipality is keen to keep the costs low for the public and is maintaining 2021 prices. Children up to 5 years are allowed in for free. Students and soldiers can get in for €5 and single adults, as I was, only pay €6. There are also seasonal passes available, which all seem like pretty good value. Opening times are, however, somewhat disappointing. The pool does not open until 10am, even on a weekend, and at 6.30pm they start blowing a whistle to let you know it is time to pack up and go home. And in case you don’t get what the whistle means, a friendly municipal worker will come to put the umbrella down and explain. Don’t people want to go to the pool before work or in the evening for a sunset swim? In other places, these types of pools are often open from 6am until 9 or 10pm.
Even growing up in a deprived area of south east London, we spent all day at a public swimming pool. In fact, the one I used to go to is still there and was recently upgraded, which is just as well after this summer’s weather. Back then, we occasionally had a really hot summer too. In 1976, it actually got to over 35C according to the BBC. As a teenager at the time, I remember spending much of that awful summer hanging out with friends all day at the local council-run lido. It was packed with sweaty, teenage bodies, and wall-to-wall towels spread on every inch of floor space; people had to step over one another to get in and out of a very lukewarm, crowded pool. It definitely wasn’t my greatest pool experience. Not much compares to Dubai!
Fast forward 50 years to this summer, with temperatures in the UK also reaching 40C. Despite the distinct lack of progress in the UK on the air-conditioning front, fitness facilities are doing much better. That particular lido from my childhood has had some investment and a big upgrade; it now houses a gym, tennis courts, an outdoor cycle studio, an Olympic-sized heated outdoor pool that is open all year round, from early until late, and a sun terrace, that you can book, to relax. It is run by a not-for-profit social enterprise organisation in conjunction with the local authority for the good of the local community. And therefore, is still pretty cheap. It is amazing what can be done with a bit of investment and some creative thinking.
Back at the Nicosia municipal pool, nothing seems to have changed in the main building. It has been reported that there will be a tender for further renovations to include the main building, the showers, changing facilities and the café soon. I was going to suggest that they could perhaps invest in a few new sun-loungers and umbrellas, but then I read that apparently they already have. Perhaps they have not yet arrived? There definitely needs to be more beds too. While I didn’t mind other people’s hot sweaty bodies next to me at a public pool when I was 13, these days, I value my own space a bit more. The sunbed next to me disappeared before 11am on Sunday. And when a guy started a yoga mediation one side of me, and on the other side, another guy put down his towel, a bit too close for comfort, I decided it was time to get back to the laptop and the air-con.
Admittedly, Nicosia municipality doesn’t have the benefit of Olympic legacy funding but the budget for the refurbishment of the pool was not small; the renovation project reportedly cost about €6 million. And according to the municipality includes, “extensive renovation work” and a “full upgrade of all swimming facilities”. This includes the Olympic pool (for swim teams and lesson), with a new service building and, apparently, a new environmentally-friendly, energy efficient photovoltaic system. The pool has been closed for much of the last five years, with a brief opening during the Covid summer of 2021, that we would all rather forget. I therefore had great hopes for the post-renovation grand re-opening. The main pool is not as deep; it is now 2m at the deepest part. The baby pool is bigger, there are a few more lifeguards and definitely no diving or ball games. Other than that, not much seems to have changed. Forgive me for being underwhelmed.
The website for the pool itself is also still a work in progress. It says it is coming soon!