Taste-Off: The best frozen gyoza, potstickers — and the ones that didn’t pan out

When it comes to snacks, there are few bites more welcome than a savory, umami-packed dumpling that bursts with mushroom or chives, edamame or earthy greens — a melange of flavors that make you reach for one after another.

While frozen dumplings come in a many styles and are typically filled with pork or chicken, for this feature we stuck with vegetarian gyoza and potstickers, the kind of dumplings that are often fried, steamed and served with dipping sauce.

A quick scan of local markets suggests that vegetarian gyoza and potstickers are much less common than their protein-packed counterparts, but if you shop in the right place, a healthy array of options can be found. Tip: For the best selection of vegetarian gyoza and potstickers, try Asian markets.

Stuff to know when shopping for dumplings: Soup dumplings are just that, they are meant to be tossed into soup. Those labeled gyoza and potstickers can be cooked in soup, but they are typically served as appetizers, as the dough is formulated to survive a quick pan-fry. While both gyoza and potstickers are technically dumplings, they do have key differences. Gyoza are Japanese-inspired, and have thin wrappers, sometimes so thin you can see the filling inside. Potstickers, the Chinese version, are typically larger and are made with thicker dough.

Great gyoza and potstickers are made with moist dough that cooks up tender and chewy, and are filled with a savory dollop that’s moist, textural, and delights the taste buds with interesting layers of flavor. Bad dumplings are soggy or dry, or filled with bland mixes that beg for flavor. The worst are pockets of slime mixed with undercooked vegetables.

Here’s the scoop on the delicious bites of dumpling magic and the disgusting lumps of yuk that are an insult to the category. Nutrition info refers to 85 grams, or 3-6 pieces, depending on size.

Bibigo Vegetable Dumplings

The freshness of these generous-sized dumplings makes them one of the best on the shelf. Inside the carefully pleated pockets are whole edamame, bits of crunchy water chestnut and chewy pieces of shiitake. This is a good pick for those who prefer a light touch of garlic and onion. 155 calories, 5 g fat, 321 sodium, 2 g sugar, 4 g protein. $6.99 for 24 ounces at Lucky. (4 stars)

Wei Chuan Vegetable Gyoza Dumplings

A delicious mix of mushrooms and chives cooked up with handfuls of spinach, cabbage, water chestnuts and vermicelli make these gyoza a perfectly delicious mouthful — no dipping sauce needed. 160 calories, 4.5 g fat, 370 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 4 g protein. $7.99 for 23.4 ounces at 99 Ranch. (4 stars)

Chimei Edamame Gyoza Dumplings

The slightly thick wrapper on these is easy to forgive, as the filling is expertly balanced. It’s light on garlic and onion, relying on lots of mushroom, edamame, cabbage and celery for flavor. 178 calories, 4.5 g fat, 355 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 8 g protein. $4.29 for 15.53 ounces at 99 Ranch. (3½ stars)

Ajinamoto Vegetable Gyoza Dumplings

Those who don’t like vermicelli in their dumplings may not love these, but the wrappers are crispy, the filling salty and rich, if a bit pasty. 160 calories, 7 g fat, 320 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 4 g protein. $10.99 for 24.7 ounces at 99 Ranch. (3 stars)

Laoban Livin’ on the Vedge Dumplings

This brand gets the filling just right. The blend of bok choy, shiitake and scallions delivers a huge umami punch. Sadly, the same care wasn’t applied to the spinach-flavored dough that falls apart and sticks to the pan, nor to the assembly — nearly a third of these have holes or cracks in the dough. 180 calories, 2.5 g fat, 400 mg sodium, 2.5 g sugar, 6 g protein. $7.39 for 8 ounces at Raley’s. (2½ stars)

Synear Mushroom-Green Vegetable Dumplings

These bulbous little pouches are well sealed and are filled with a flavorful nob of chunky mushrooms and greens. The problem is that the dough is so dry that they simply don’t brown when cooked according to the directions on the bag. These should be labeled soup dumplings.140 calories, 3.5 g fat, 320 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 5 g protein. $4.69 for 17.64 ounces at 99 Ranch. (2 stars)

Trader Joe’s Thai Vegetable Gyoza

Edible? Yes. These have decently tender dough, but the filling has an overwhelming amount of green onion and garlic, and no Thai flavors per se. 160 calories, 4.5 g fat, 300 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 3 g protein. $4.79 for 16 ounces. (1½ stars)

Fortune Ave All Natural Vegetable Dumplings

Bitter, carrot-forward filling packed inside thick, tough dough makes these a disappointing bite. 170 calories, 3 g fat, 346 mg sodium, 3 g sugar, 5 g protein. $5.99 for 20 ounces at 99 Ranch. (½ a star)

Feel Good Foods Vegetable Potstickers

Those who fancy a mouthful of raw onions are welcome to these. Not only is the dough thick and tough, but the filling tastes like warmed onions stirred into mushy slop. 125 calories, 3 g fat, 404 mg sodium, 3.5 g sugar, 2 g protein. (Includes sauce) $8.99 for 10 ounces at Whole Foods. (no stars)

365 by Whole Foods Market Vegetable Potstickers

The gooey mush inside this dumpling is simply revolting. It hasn’t got a lot of flavor, and the slimy texture from ground oats is unforgivable. 140 calories, 2.5 g fat, 250 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 4 g protein. $4.39 for 8 ounces. (no stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.