The game-changing art of gun mounting

A consistent gun mount is the foundation on which shotgun marksmanship is built. It is critical to becoming a top-notch shot

Certain qualities identify a first-class shot: good, balanced stance (especially as the trigger is pulled), excellent vision and timing and, not least, consistent gun mounting. Many never learn to mount a gun really well. They may never realise their potential as a result. Too often the mount is rushed and performed with insufficient control of the muzzles. The common error is to ‘bash and slash’ – in other words, to slam the gun up to the shoulder too quickly and then slash at the bird. Wild, inconsistent shooting inevitably follows. And those who rush often rush to a stop and miss their mark behind with puzzlement. (Read clay pigeon shooting in the off-season.)

Gun mount is crucial

Unless you are shooting at a static pattern plate or a bird coming straight on or moving straight away, the gun mount will generally incorporate the act of swinging the gun too. Usually, moreover, the swing begins before the mount is completed, or should do. With that stated, let us consider the simple mount first – without the swing. Let us also note that mounting the gun well in any circumstance is dependent on having a gun that is appropriate for you in regard to weight, barrel length and, critically, fit. Knowledge of your eye dominance is also important (if in doubt, get it professionally checked).

The basics of gun mount

Moving on to the basics – to mount the gun well, you need to hold it properly first. The front hand, effectively points the barrels: it does not just support them. The front arm should not be excessively extended (unless compensating for a short stock), nor does it want to be too close to the action (unless compensating for a heavy gun or as a device to increase gun speed). With an over-and-under the chequering is usually a good guide as to where approximately your hand should be placed. With a side-by-side the front hand should be positioned so it makes contact with both the front part of the fore-end and a little barrel (assuming a traditional splinter fore-end and that you don’t have an established preference). The front index finger may be extended as a pointing aid too. Grip pressure should not be excessive: there must be adequate purchase (good contact with chequered wood or steel) but no excessive tension. (Read more on how to hold a gun correctly.)

Positioning the front hand

Take the closed, proven-empty gun in your strong hand, extend your weaker arm and hand in front, elbow slightly bent, arm relaxed but palm down. Now, rotate the palm up. Just let the fore-end gently drop into it. Close the fingers. A perfect front grip has been achieved. As for the rear hand, holding the gun with the forward hand now, just pat the side of the butt with the rear hand. Slide it forward on to the grip and close the fingers. Job done.

Some bring the web of the rear hand too high on the grip, which will impede the mount. Another common error is to ride the safety catch with the thumb. When practising the mount ‘dry’ the trigger finger should be extended forward on the stock wood, lockplate or on the trigger-guard, not on the trigger-blade. The safety should be engaged. When the finger is brought on to the trigger to actually shoot I favour the use of the pad or tip. When encountering a heavy trigger, however, the first joint may be used to good effect.

Performance of the mount should be unhurried yet precise. Both hands should work together. There must be economy of movement and the head should not move excessively (lest you doubt this, try pointing a finger at a bird or plane while moving  the head.) A good mount is always made easier when you focus on a spot or moving mark forward rather than blankly into space. Bad mounting (and shooting) often results from bringing focus back to the gun. As noted, the head must remain relatively still as mount and swing progress. Additionally, I sometimes advise lowering the chin slightly before starting the mount. This will help to achieve good cheek-to-comb contact and activates the primal hunter – a change of mindset and focus.

Face first

The gun should come up to the face first before the shoulder meets the butt sole. The comb locates underneath the cheekbone – the natural arch formed by the connection of zygomatic and temporal bones. It is an error to bring the gun to the shoulder and then bring the head down. There may be variation in individual technique, however. Some game shots may position the comb slightly lower (in other words, keep the head a little higher) than clay shots. The head should not be pressed down excessively but the cheek should be in positive contact with the comb as the mount completes. Also note that on completing the mount with normal cheek pressure, you should not lose sight of the muzzle bead. If you do, stock fit may be too low. Lifting the head off the stock as the shot is taken or otherwise lifting it prematurely or failing to get face-stock contact may be considered absolute errors. Some people (I don’t advise it) may mount the gun on the jaw, and you may also see higher, more erect/higher head positions in old sporting prints.

Having considered where the stock should end up, we might backtrack a little and consider where it should have begun. Robert Churchill advised placing the butt well back below the armpit while keeping barrels parallel to the line of sight (close to horizontal in many old photographs of him). The gun is pushed out from this position and lifted parallel to the line of sight. There is a distinct movement back to the shoulder following this parallel lift. Imagine a celestial puppet master with a strand of wire attached to both the front and back of the gun and lifting both ends simultaneously. Churchill also emphasised the importance of the front hand directing the barrels at the target ‘throughout the process of lifting and mounting’.

Stanbury technique

Percy Stanbury favoured a starting position with the stock further out and lower but with barrels held up more. The top of the comb begins in line with the top of the forearm (or even lower in some circumstances). The gun is pushed towards the target as the mount commences and the shoulder moves forward to meet the butt sole as the comb comes to the face. There is some rotation at the muzzles but this is controlled by the front hand, and the muzzles remain just under the line of sight throughout. They must not rise above this line or zigzag through it. It is a controlled movement like Churchill’s but conceptually different because this is not a parallel mount – the rear of the gun moves more than the front.

Arguing the merits of the two classic approaches, you might note that Stanbury’s technique is elegant and more generally applicable. It keeps the muzzles safely up. The Churchill method, however, is useful for those having issues with gun mounting (and also for ab initio training and those transitioning from shooting gun up to gun down). It provides a precise, easily repeatable reference point for the start of the mount. You have to try Churchill’s way to understand it. With the under-the-armpit start (which looks a bit cramped and ungainly) you effectively ensure good stock placement at both face and shoulder – the stock magically goes where it is meant to. Once this is felt and understood, the technique may be discarded for something more elegant or kept as an extra ‘club’ in the bag. I often use the Churchill method during teaching. In its pure, original form it can encourage a ready position that is too low for driven game shooting but, happily, it may be easily and usefully modified to incorporate a higher muzzle start.

Churchill and Stanbury are not the only options. Experiment leads to a ‘third way’ where the muzzles are held just below the line of sight – or, on a crossing bird, the line of flight. The butt starts in a natural, relaxed position just below and forward of the shoulder, gently nestling between tummy and forearm but not brought back artificially (as with Churchill) nor held out with ostentatious elegance. Let’s imagine shooting a crosser from the right on a skeet field. Start with the gun muzzles pointing under the impending line of flight as if you were hip-shooting at the line but not raised to the level of the line itself. This lower start ensures economy of movement as the mount and swing progress. If the gun starts on the line of flight (or above it), there will be more correctional rotation and potential windmilling. Starting even lower in Churchill fashion creates the need for more movement too. In all cases, the mount must not be dominated by the rear hand – both hands must act in concert, with the front hand leading/directing the muzzles as discussed.

Other tips? Many years ago in Norfolk I visited the establishment of Paddy Woods, a well-known gunsmith. Discussing gunfit, Woods invited me to mount a proven-empty gun towards him. “You shoot pretty well don’t you boy?” I glowed with pride, then came the sting: “But you need to learn to shoot with the tip of the gun.” He had detected too much uncontrolled muzzle movement in my mount Ever since, I have paid more attention to the front arm and hand control while still maintaining forward focus on the mark.

Speed of mount

Don’t rush. Gun down, the mount should always be performed to three beats – ONE, TWO, THREE – the speed and tempo changing depending on the situation but always three beats. Imagine yourself mounting the gun now (or better still pick up a proven-empty gun and try it). ONE, TWO, THREE. Remember to keep focus forward. Many shots rush, completing the mount far too early in their swing. Premature mounting reduces visibility and impedes timing and, potentially, smooth gun movement.

Anything else? Clothing should be mentioned. Excessively thick or heavy clothes impede the mount. I prefer to shoot in a tweed vest with a quilted layer underneath when conditions dictate. Shooting jackets, if required, must have free arm movement (and good pockets). We have not discussed elbow position yet either: I like to see both at about 45 degrees during and on completion of the mount. Some trap shooters – who routinely shoot with a pre-mounted gun – may raise the rear elbow (as do some target rifle shots standing). I don’t advise this because, like an extended front hand, it may impede fluent movement and check the swing.

This does not mean, however, that gun-up shooting is of itself a bad idea. It is the best way to shoot trap and may also be used for some sporting clay presentations (rules permitting). It works well for rabbit and teal targets (and double-target situations where time needs to be gained on the first shot). When trap shooting, I would begin by mounting the gun high at about 30 degrees above the horizontal and then bringing the muzzles down to the trap house or just above. It is also useful for beginners. With novices, it may be necessary to place the butt sole of the proven-empty gun at the shoulder for them. The easiest way to do this is to get them to fold their arms in front of them first.

The importance of practice

A good mount benefits from constant practice. Many great shots practise their mount every day to refine muscle memory and develop shooting strength. Some competition shots may even add weight to the gun for practice purposes, though the gun with which you normally shoot is probably preferable. Do not, meantime, underestimate the sheer muscular effort involved in repetitive mounting. You will soon feel it. Cross-training for shooting (and mounting) might include either swimming or tennis. Muscle bulk and excessive training with heavy weights may be detrimental, though.

As noted, you should practise the mount focusing on a fixed spot if possible. Some shots practise in front of a mirror, which may also give feedback on gunfit. It is also extremely useful to get someone to film your mount from the side – easily done now with a smartphone. As well as the simple forward mount at a static spot, try perfecting the combined swing and mount on imaginary driven and crossing targets. Note I say ‘swing and mount’ because the swing, as mentioned, should begin just before the mount in most situations. (Read more on shooting stance.)

In conclusion, do not mount early. Don’t rush. Use both hands effectively. The front hand controls the muzzles and points. Without getting too tied up in matters of forward allowance, mount on to the tail feathers, just behind or on the bird as per your preference but lift well up with the front hand as you do (failure to lift well often leads to misses behind on driven birds). Power for the swing should come primarily from body movement – the main engine of the swing – not the arms. Crossing shots are powered by body rotation, driven shots by body bending (especially from the hips but not forgetting coordinated hand and arm actions). Bring the gun to the face and shoulder decisively but without straining. Keep the shoulders level (unless you are deliberately inclining them to match the line of a driven bird coming in to right or left). Keep the head in contact with the stock as you complete the mount, shot and follow through. Do not unlock the face too early. Don’t check. Consider your timing as you mount – ONE, TWO, THREE – and always keep your vision forward as you mount, shoot and finish the shot.