3 of the most talked about new releases from the 'Super Bowl' of watches

• Watches and Wonders in Geneva has showcased new luxury timepieces from top brands like Rolex.
• Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin debuted new models this week.
• The event comes amid concern Swiss watches will face price hikes in the US from tariffs.

A much-anticipated event in the watch industry is underway, and the heavy hitters have been rolling out new models.

The Watches and Wonders event kicked off in Geneva, a hub for luxury watches, on Tuesday. These aren't your everyday accessories, with Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin among the brands to debut new products.

The event is the "Super Bowl" of watches, as Bob's Watches founder and CEO Paul Altieri put it.

The future of Swiss-made watches in the US is uncertain as President Donald Trump's 31% tariff on imports from Switzerland could hike prices. Surging gold prices have already caused Rolex to bump up prices on some of its most expensive products this year.

That hasn't stopped watch enthusiasts from enjoying their time at Watches and Wonders. Here are the three pieces that are wowing attendees the most, according to two experts.

Rolex Land-Dweller

The Rolex Land-Dweller is a "polarizing" drop from the brand, Linden Lazarus, founder and CEO at WatchCheck, said. The integrated bracelet design looks like it's meant to compete with rivals Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, and it calls back to a vintage design from Rolex, Lazarus said.

The dial features a white honeycomb motif for watches made of rose gold and Rolesor, Rolex's patented combination of steel and gold. For the platinum option, which costs $63,500, the honeycomb design is blue.

Swiss tennis star Roger Federer appeared in the ad campaign announcing the Land-Dweller, and Watches and Wonders attendees got a closer look in person. The 40-millimeter Land-Dweller starts at $14,900 on Rolex's website.

"They are going to be popular, no doubt, and it will be interesting to see how Rolex iterates on this line in the future," Lazarus said.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication — La Première

Vacheron Constantin dropped the "Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication — La Première," which it called the "most complicated wristwatch ever made," at Watches and Wonders 2025.

With 1,521 components and functions that can tell you the positions of the stars and the sun's trajectory, the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication — La Première is a "showstopper," Bob's Watches' Altieri said.

It took nearly a decade and 13 patent applications to develop the watch, Altieri said. It's expected to be one of the most expensive pieces to come out at Watches and Wonders, though experts BI spoke to declined to give an estimate. A Vacheron Constantin employee told BI that store associates haven't yet been told the price of the new watch.

Entry-level watches from Vacheron Constantin start at around $15,000, and the high-end pieces can reach well over $500,000.

Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6196P-001

The new Patek Philippe Calatrava is one of Lazarus' favorite releases from the brand "in a very long time." It gives a nod to a 1932 model and highlights the brand's history of functional designs that can hold up a century later.

With an alligator leather strap and a platinum case, its suggested retail price is around $47,130. The salmon dial seems to be a crowd-pleaser, Lazarus and Altieri both said.

"A winner, and a really good decision by the brand to keep their core supporters enthralled at a relatively digestible price point," Lazarus said.