Beyond his bright blue suits, Pete Hegseth's unconventional style is 'operator casual'

• Secretary of Defense Pete Hegseth seems to favor "operator casual" style on official trips.
• The style, popularized during the Global War on Terrorism, blends professionalism and tactical function.
• Hegseth's look contrasts with predecessors, reflecting a generational shift.

Secretary of Defense Pete Hegseth is known for steering clear of the traditional, somber attire expected in Washington, DC, playing the suit game by his own rules. But he's also got a second kind of unconventional look — operator casual.

It's a different vibe from the conspicuously bright blue suit he wore at the recent NATO summit, drawing criticism, but it shares some similarities to some of his other preferred flair, like flag-linings in his suits, patriotic socks, and a star-spangled pocket square.

The style gained momentum during the Global War on Terrorism, or GWOT, though earlier versions date back to the 1990s. US special operators deployed to areas away from support forces have, at times, needed to blend in. Lightweight, nonmilitary clothing that can convey professionalism while offering tactical features that allow the wearer to maneuver in a gunfight has come in handy.

And it's since given rise to this look.

Hegseth donned this kind of attire on recent trips to Guantánamo Bay in Cuba and the US-Mexico border. He wore the same style while addressing reporters in Hawaii this week as he disputed that he and other Trump administration officials discussed sensitive attack plans on an unsecured messaging app.

The travel look differs from previous defense secretaries. Hegseth has cultivated an image of "lethality" and having "dust on his boots," characterizing himself as a "change agent" with real, on-the-ground combat experience. That's meant to stand in contrast with his predecessors, many of whom not only had combat experience but significantly more leadership experience.

He may have taken notice of the comfortable "operator casual" style while serving in the Army National Guard, though it is unclear. The Office of the Secretary of Defense has not responded to Business Insider's request for comment on the secretary's attire.

The general vibe associated with this look is that someone, often soldiers or civilian first responders, could "be traveling at one minute, and then be on the range the next minute, and then be back in the professional office in the third instance," said Tim Jensen, cofounder of the clothing brand Grunt Style, in an interview with BI. The term "grunt" is used to describe infantry personnel.

What is operator casual?

The look usually includes five components, Jensen said. Normally, a baseball-style hat, maybe with a subdued American flag, sunglasses, a collared shirt or tee with a patriotic symbol, technical fabric pants (good in case you need to break into a sprint, Jensen explained), and hiking-style boots.

Early versions of this operator casual look can be seen in photos from the 1990s, like when elite US Delta Force personnel were photographed traveling with Operation Desert Storm leader, US Army General Norman Schwarzkopf, carrying rifles with button-down shirts.

Before the GWOT, special operations-coded words like "operator" weren't really part of the general American lexicon, Jensen observed. But after two decades of war and countless movies, books, and TV shows depicting niche SOF cultures, those preferences have seeped into other parts of American life, including into conventional corners of the US military.

Hegseth did not serve as a special operator, but he is known to enjoy working out with Army Green Berets and Navy SEALs.

Concurrent with the increased cultural popularity of special operations forces, as troops returned from deployments seeking more functional clothes to wear at home or to take on future overseas rotations, many were drawn to the new clothing styles, said Michael Standing, a marketing coordinator for the Zero Foxtrot clothing brand popular with veterans and first responders.

The demand for a more outdoorsy style, with plentiful pockets and a loose fit to help obscure pistols for concealed carry, arose as US special operations units also drafted lucrative contracts with brands like Patagonia, Salomon, and Arc'teryx.

A different look

Hegseth's travel look is a notable departure from some of the most recent secretaries. Jim Mattis, Trump's first defense secretary, was rarely seen in anything but dark formal suits. Leon Panetta dressed down in khakis and dress shirts while Ash Carter wore dress shirts and multiple holsters for devices. And Chuck Hagel favored a country club vibe and grandfatherly sweaters.

One predecessor, though, Gulf War combat veteran Mark Esper, was photographed in a casual operator style on several occasions while visiting Iraq and Afghanistan during his time as the US Army secretary.

While the off-duty operator look has surged in popularity with veterans and first responders over the past two decades, much of Hegseth's look can probably be chalked up to generational differences between him and his predecessors, said Derek Guy, a menswear expert and author of the blog Die, Workwear.

As men's tailored clothing has declined in popularity while technical fabrics become more ubiquitous, a collared, button-front shirt and khaki-adjacent pants can convey a modern professional image, Guy told BI. A polo shirt could also suffice for such official travel, though it might communicate a less rugged image, he said.

Hegseth is no stranger to tailored clothing, though his tightly fitted and brightly colored suits also distinguish him from other secretaries. But when visiting troops, especially in warm climates, it might make sense that he would gravitate toward a younger look, Guy said.

"If you're a 60 or 70-year-old guy, and you're going out to visit troops, you might still wear a tailored jacket because it is so ingrained in your behavior," he said. "I think generationally, these different types of men across different age groups have different ideas of what it means to look presentable."