San Rafael restaurant celebrates South Indian cuisine
A new addition to downtown San Rafael brings the bold, aromatic flavors of South India to the local dining scene. Suvai Taste of India, which opened in late November, showcases a broad menu of rice-based dishes, lentil stews, dosas and coconut-forward curries drawn from the region’s rich culinary traditions.
Owner Raja Ramdass took over the former Taj of Marin space in October and partnered with chef Ganesh Sankar to craft a menu inspired by the food of Tamil Nadu, the southeastern Indian state where they’re both from.
Ramdass, who moved to the United States in 2014 and earned a master’s degree in engineering management, also owns restaurants in the East Bay.
Sankar brings two decades of culinary experience, including time at India’s luxury ITC Hotels. His menu highlights dishes made with house-roasted and ground spices. Organic produce is sourced at the Thursday Marin Farmers Market, and regular and gluten-free naan are available.
The restaurant’s name, Suvai — meaning “taste” in Tamil — reflects the traditional balance of sweet, sour, salty, bitter and spicy elements. That concept shows up not only in the food but also in the placemats, décor and custom wallpaper, which depict the cultural significance of these flavors and the ingredients that shape them.
While the menu offers familiar items like butter chicken and tandoori platters, its heart lies in South Indian specialties. Dosas — crispy, crepe-like lentil and rice pancakes — come with a variety of fillings, from classic masala and spinach to spiced chicken and a fusion pizza version with vegetables and mozzarella.
Chettinad-style curries include Suvaiyana dal fry (lentils cooked with a house spice blend), ennai kathirikai kulambu (a spicy eggplant curry) and chintamani chicken (a chili-forward dry curry). Indo-Chinese options, such as chow mein and fried rice, both available with vegetables, chicken, egg or prawns, come with a side of house-made Schezwan sauce. Samosas, biryanis and a selection of vegetarian and non-vegetarian soups round out the menu.
Suvai is open from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays and 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Fridays through Sundays at 807 Fourth St. in San Rafael. For more information, visit suvaiusa.com.
Leanne Battelle is a freelance food writer and restaurant columnist. Email her at ij.lbattelle@gmail.com with comments and find more local food news at therealdealmarin.com.