Marin resident’s burritos land at San Anselmo wine bar

Voyage, downtown San Anselmo’s natural wine and low-proof cocktail bar, introduced a new food partner last month, yet another reason to visit the design-forward corner space housed in the historic Cheda Building.

Nicasio native Sam Neely of Sam’s Sonoran moved back to Marin last year after co-founding and operating Super Burrito in New York for six years. He introduced a Sonoran burrito concept at Voyage as a pop-up in January, and the positive response led to a full-time collaboration last month.

The northern Mexican Sonoran burrito is wrapped in a soft, stretchy wheat flour tortilla, known as harina de trigo, rather than the traditional corn masa used in other parts of the country. Fillings are simple — meat, a smear of beans and a touch of cheese — resulting in a more streamlined, plate-worthy version of what Neely served in New York, but without the heft.

“You can eat it and not feel like you have to lie down afterward,” said Neely, adding that the presentation fits the aesthetic of the space where they’re served.

The tight menu has a few starters such as pickled vegetables, hand-fried chips with cheddar-jack queso and a cucumber-avocado salad with cilantro, pickled red onions, lime and chile.

The four burrito selections are topped with salsa, crema, pickled onions, cotija cheese and cilantro, and filled with chile Colorado beef in red guajillo sauce; cubed pork in tomatillo-poblano sauce; roasted sweet potatoes with hatch green chiles; or sweet peppers and black beans. A bacon-wrapped Sonoran hot dog and pork and green chile stew were recently on the specials menu.

After moving to New York in 2006 to work in film and television, including a three-and-a-half-year stint at filmmaker Spike Lee’s production company, Neely and his friends often found themselves pining for the Mission-style burritos of their home state. He and a business partner launched Super Burrito in 2017, opening locations in Rockaway Beach and Williamsburg, Brooklyn. After deciding to return to Marin, Neely sold his share of the business to a mutual friend in 2023. A third outpost recently opened in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village.

Voyage is open from noon to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays at 500 San Anselmo Ave. in San Anselmo. The Sam’s Sonoran menu is served from 5 to 9 p.m. The wine bar is closed Sundays and Mondays.

Leanne Battelle is a freelance food writer and restaurant columnist. Email her at ij.lbattelle@gmail.com with comments and find more local food news at therealdealmarin.com.