I discovered one of Europe’s last remaining city break travel secrets – under 2 hours from the UK
WROCLAW might be one of Europe’s best-kept city-break secrets.
A Polish city of colourful market squares, history that zigzags between empires, and the charm of better-known Krakow, minus the crowds.
Its gothic town hall leads to cobbled streets lined with pastel townhouses, hidden courtyards buzzing with cafes, and a skyline punctuated by soaring church spires.
Along the way you can’t miss the hundreds of tiny bronze gnomes that are scattered around the city.
Whether you are there for the beer, museums, walks by the River Oder, or a dive into Polish history, Wroclaw will surprise you — in all the best ways.
And a key thing to remember: It’s pronounced “vrotz waff”.
WHY SHOULD I GO?
Visit if you have already enjoyed a long weekend in Krakow and want to experience somewhere new but just as attractive on a second visit to Poland.
Wroclaw is the capital of the region of Lower Silesia and has plenty to keep you occupied for a few days.
The historical centre is compact and walkable, and the city has a youthful feel thanks to the 20,000 students at its university, which was founded in 1702.
It’s known as a city of festivals and there’s something going on throughout the year, from films and jazz to classical music.
Wroclaw’s Christmas market is one of the largest in Poland.
STREETS MADE FOR WALKING?
Start off at the Instagram-friendly Rynek market square, which is packed with old merchants’ houses that are now shops, restaurants, and cafes.
The town hall has an astro-nomical clock that dates back to the 1500s.
The imposing Centennial Hall, near the historical centre, was built in the early 20th century to celebrate the centenary of Wroclaw’s liberation from Napoleon, when the city was known as Breslau and part of Germany.
Not far away is the National Museum, and the Raclawice Panorama, a 400ft-long, 50ft-high painting that Poles consider a national treasure.
Wroclaw is a city made for meandering and the university quarter, built on the south bank of the River Oder, has neoclassical and baroque buildings that were founded when the city was part of the Austrian Empire.
Popping into the main assembly hall is like stepping back 300 years, as you gaze up at the spectacular ceiling frescoes.
ANYTHING FOR THE BUCKET LIST?
Grab a map from the tourist office in the Rynek and hunt down the 350 bronze gnome figures that are spread out across the city.
They are now Wroclaw’s unofficial symbol and the trend began in the 1980s when they were painted on walls as a way of satirising life under communist rule.
St Mary Magdalene church has twin towers linked by a bridge 150ft above the ground that makes for a great vantage point over the city.
The River Oder is a short walk away, and on sunny summer days there are plenty of boat trips you can take.
Ostrow Tumski is another old neighbourhood dominated by gothic churches, and perfect for an evening stroll.
Time it right and you might see the gas-powered streetlamps being fired up by the lamp-lighter with his black cape and top hat.
WHERE SHOULD I EAT?
There are lots of options in and around the market square.
Whiskey In The Jar was buzzing on my visit and the “grill your own steak at the table” hit the spot.
Steak and two sides is from £30, burgers £11.
For more traditional fare, close is Piwnica Swidnicka, a brewery and restaurant that has existed since 1273, in the cellars of the old town hall.
A similar spot along the same street is Spiz, where you can drink wheat beers to accompany various hearty dishes.
Mains average £15.
Be aware in Poland, if you say thank you as the waiter takes your cash payment, it means “keep the change”, however much you’re expecting back.
I FANCY A DRINK!
If you want the gloopiest hot chocolate ever, go to Cafe Wedel on the market square. (Mleczna is milk, and gorzka is dark.) It’s heaven for £3.
This whole area is buzzing in the summer, with plenty of places to sit out and enjoy a drink.
When it’s beer o’clock, head to Kombinat just around the corner, where a half litre of draft lager is £2.80.
WHERE SHOULD I STAY?
Puro Hotel is a hip outpost of a local chain which has sites across Poland.
Rooms are compact but have all you need.
It’s just a five-minute walk from the centre and there’s a good smattering of restaurants and cafes close by.
GO: WROCLAW
GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies to Wroclaw from ten UK airports including Stansted, Bristol and Glasgow.
See ryanair.com.
STAYING THERE: A double room at Puro Hotel costs from £76.
See purohotel.pl.
OUT & ABOUT: For city information see visitwroclaw.eu.