Thailand’s northern city is spectacular to explore – and you’ll eat like a queen
THAILAND’S northern city is spectacular to explore – and you’ll eat like a queen for just a few quid too, says writer Qin Xie.
It’s an odd sensation to feel sick and exhilarated at the same time.
But having spent an hour huffing and puffing my way up Doi Suthep mountain on the well-trodden Monk’s Trail, I’m now wowed by an impossibly pretty view of Chiang Mai city.
My vantage point is a small waterfall just outside Wat Pha Lat temple, where there’s an ornamental infinity pool.
As I look out, I get a perfect mirror reflection of the blue sky above and jungly forest all around. The stuff of Instagrammers’ dreams, it’s bliss.
Even better, there are photogenic spots and short hikes like this all over northern Thailand, and many are within easy reach of Chiang Mai.
To get on the Monk’s Trail, for example, it’s a 30-minute cab ride from my hotel, the InterContinental Chiang Mai The Mae Ping.
And even though it’s on the other side of the city, the journey costs me less than £2.
Because that’s the other great thing about this destination: it’s super-affordable.
SPIRIT IN THE SKY
When I was planning my trip, Chiang Mai’s stunning Buddhist temples were what drew me in.
Between the 13th and 17th centuries, the city was the capital of the fantastically wealthy Lanna Kingdom, so all of its temples were richly decorated with gold.
I head for the most revered one, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.
Located at the highest point of its namesake mountain, the sprawling temple complex surrounds a golden chedi – a cone-shaped tower that shines so brightly in the sun, it looks like a beacon from the city below.
Legend has it that the temple was built after a white elephant carrying a piece of the Buddha’s shoulder bone stopped on this spot, trumpeted three times and then died.
That sacred relic is what the chedi protects and what draws pilgrims from all over the country, so while most temples are free to visit, this one charges 70p. What a bargain, especially as it comes with stunning panoramic views!
PLAY THE MARKET
At the fascinating Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre, £2 entry, I learn the thriving crafts scene is another legacy of the Lanna Kingdom (Cmocity.com).
Many craftsmen moved to Chiang Mai because the temples always needed decorative work doing.
Even today, there are enclaves of silversmiths, wood carvers and lantern-makers keeping traditions alive.
Instead of criss-crossing the city to find them all, I visit their pop-up stalls at one of the vibrant night markets.
Sunday Walking Street is the busiest, open from 5pm every Sunday.
I’d heard it starts from Tha Phae Gate, one of the ancient city gates guarding the Old Town, and extends down Rachadamnoen Road.
But, when I get there, I find it sprawls in every direction.
In no time, I’m completely lost. But, thankfully, there are so many stalls selling handmade products, such as comfy harem-style elephant trousers, £2.30, and purses, 50p, that I just follow the crowds.
There’s always a stall nearby selling banana-filled roti, 90p, khao soi curry noodles, £1.40, or fresh coconut water, £1.15, and you can even enjoy a 15-minute massage for just £3 – though it does mean being gawped at by passing tourists.
My hotel has a destination rooftop bar, Hong’s Sky Bar, that’s great for sundowners, and the buzzy neighbourhood around Nimmanhaeminda Road is a 20-minute cab ride away.
At On The Way cafe, I pick up an iced coffee, 80p, to start my day. Over the next couple of hours, I pop in and out of design-led boutiques, before the mustard exterior of JEAB Cafe catches my eye.
Even though it’s super-trendy, my Thai red curry costs just £1.35 (Facebook.com/jiabthaifood).
Later, I grab a drink at Real Good Pasta where I get lucky – there’s a Wednesday wine deal, so a small glass costs less than £1.50. It isn’t amazing wine, but it does the trick (Facebook.com/realgoodcnx).
BEACH DAZE
Of course, Thailand is known for its incredible beaches and I settle on Natai beach for some R&R time, catching a two-hour flight to Phuket.
I make Aleenta Phuket-Phang Nga my base – it’s on the mainland, a 30-minute drive north from Phuket airport.
When I walk down the pristine sands on my first morning, there’s not a soul to be seen for miles in either direction.
There is also zero judgement if you just want to cocoon at the resort, taking dips in the infinity pool and snacking on dishes such as the super-sized club sandwich at the hotel’s restaurant The Edge.
Rooms have their own plunge pool and the spa’s known for offering some of the best massages in the area.
One day, I splash out on Aleenta’s signature Nature & Culture half-day tour, from £149 for two people.
It includes a visit to a seaside temple and a turtle sanctuary, but the last stop, Lampi Waterfall, is my favourite.
Crystal-clear water gushes down the mountain into a swim-friendly plunge pool, while, further downstream, swings hang invitingly over the water for those who just want to dip their toes.
I take a deep breath and feel more refreshed than I have in ages.
FYI
Rooms at InterContinental Chiang Mai The Mae Ping cost from £150 per night (Chiangmai.intercontinental.com).
Pool villas at Aleenta Phuket cost from £262 B&B (Aleenta.com/phuket).
Flights from the UK to Chiang Mai via Bangkok cost from £717 return.
Internal flights cost from £40 including checked luggage.