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Gugu Peteni: A story of creativity, identity and breaking barriers in fashion

As the art calendar wound down in December, and we counted the days to the festive break, an invitation landed in my inbox. 

It was a chance to view the latest clothing collection by GuguByGugu at WeAreEgg in Rosebank, a vibrant retail platform and home to some of South Africa’s trendiest fashion brands.

I couldn’t resist this last event of the year and the opportunity to meet the creative force behind GuguByGugu — Gugu Peteni. 

She’s had an extraordinary year, showcasing at the New York and Paris fashion weeks, and winning the best young designer award at Paris Haute Couture Week. 

When we meet, her warm smile lights up the room and her vibrant personality mirrors the energy of her bold capsule collection. 

Both of us are weary from a long year but we agree to a coffee date in the new year to dive deeper into her story. 

Though schedules delay the coffee, a phone call gives me a glimpse into the life and vision of one of South Africa’s most promising designers. 

Growing up in a lively home with four siblings, including a twin sister, Peteni’s childhood was full of energy and creativity. 

Her parents’ dramatic personalities and the chaotic joy of a large family provided the perfect environment to spark her artistic instincts. 

“Expressing myself was second nature,” the 30-year-old shares, recalling how she turned to art, performance and experimenting with her surroundings as outlets for her creativity. However, being a twin had its challenges. 

“I often felt my individuality was overshadowed by our shared identity as ‘the Peteni sisters’,” she explains. 

This sense of being intertwined with her twin pushed Peteni to find ways to carve out her own identity. 

Fashion became her sanctuary — a space where she could be unapologetically herself. 

Peteni’s love for fashion began with dressing her dolls as a child. 

By her teenage years, she’d earned the nickname “Gugu with the funky dress sense” because of her bold, unique style. 

“That’s when I realised that fashion wasn’t just a hobby — it was my passion,” she says. 

Breaking barriers

Deciding to pursue fashion was not easy for Peteni. Brought up in a black South African family that valued traditional career paths like medicine and law, her dream of becoming a fashion designer met with resistance. 

“It was like trying to send my parents to their deathbed,” she recalls with a laugh. 

Her decision further challenged expectations because she was an academic achiever. 

Her father, however, eventually softened, revealing a family history that connected them — his mother had been a seamstress. 

Her mother’s support took longer to materialise. Initially, she would tell others Peteni was studying graphic design, uncertain about the viability of a career in fashion. 

But as her achievements grew — international runways, retail success and prestigious awards — her parents began to understand and celebrate her journey. 

Peteni’s fashion journey officially began at the Nelson Mandela University in Gqeberha, where she graduated cum laude in fashion and textiles in 2018. 

She then took on an internship with Mohair South Africa, which introduced her to the intricacies of knitwear and inspired her to start her brand GuguByGugu. 

“I always tell people that I never planned to have GuguByGugu. Through my internship with Mohair, and being exposed to the industry, I realised that I have a product that people really need.”

“It all happened so organically, and it made it worth it when people really wanted it, and were buying the product. 

“That’s what pushed it — without that initial support I don’t think I would have gone into it,” she says. 

The community in Gqeberha played a pivotal role in her early success, rallying behind her as she launched her business. 

“If it weren’t for the people of Gqeberha, I wonder where I’d be. Their support means everything to me,” she says. 

This sense of community is deeply embedded in her brand, which combines innovative design with cultural heritage. 

Knitwear, a cornerstone of her collections, reflects both her training and her South African identity. 

Breakthrough year

Last year was a whirlwind for Peteni. She showcased her work at New York and Paris Fashion Weeks, which she describes as surreal, yet affirming. 

In Paris, she participated in Africa Fashion Up, a programme spotlighting emerging African designers. 

Sharing the stage with industry icons such as Rich Mnisi, Peteni found herself in rooms once beyond her imagination. 

“When you are surrounded by people from Louis Vuitton and Gucci, the dream starts to feel real,” she reflects. 

Her journey continued to New York, where she was part of a groundbreaking collaboration between Jaguar and Give Her a Crown, a campaign aimed at uplifting women, featuring the largest group of African designers in the event’s history. 

“It felt like our time to shine — as young black creatives stepping into spaces we were historically excluded from,” she says. 

Adding to her achievements, Peteni began a mentorship with Balenciaga during Paris Fashion Week, gaining invaluable insights from one of the world’s most prestigious fashion houses. 

She’s also caught the attention of industry heavyweights such as the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton group, marking her as a designer to watch.

Peteni’s latest collection, Echoes of Self, delves into the complexities of identity. Inspiration struck during an Uber ride to the airport as she pondered the dual identities many South Africans navigate. 

“My dad’s name, Sakhekile, means ‘to build’, but his English name is Ivirn. I questioned how these dualities shape our identity,” she explains. 

Even her own name shifts in pronunciation, depending on the context, reflecting the layered realities of being South African. 

Echoes of Self embraces these contrasts, blending cultural significance with modern design. 

The collection resonated deeply, reflecting Peteni’s introspection and her ability to tell powerful stories through fashion. 

For her, fashion is more than a creative outlet — it’s a platform for storytelling, identity, and empowerment. Her designs merge contemporary aesthetics with traditional craftsmanship, creating a unique voice in the global fashion landscape. 

But her success isn’t just about personal achievement. Peteni is paving the way for other African designers, offering a blueprint for navigating an industry that can feel inaccessible. 

“When a young designer tells their parents they want to do this, I want them to hear, ‘Sure, we’ve seen the success of GuguByGugu,’” she says. 

Balancing modernity and heritage

At the heart of GuguByGugu is knitwear — rooted in traditional South African craftsmanship but reimagined for the contemporary fashion scene. 

Peteni’s ability to merge heritage with modernity has become a signature of her brand, setting it apart in a competitive industry. 

Her designs reflect the duality of her identity and experiences as a black South African woman navigating global spaces. 

Whether it’s incorporating cultural symbols or telling stories through textures and patterns, her work resonates deeply with those who value both innovation and tradition.

Despite her growing international acclaim, Peteni remains deeply connected to her roots. She says that her faith, resilience and the support of her community keep her grounded. 

“It’s no longer just about me. It’s about my team, my family, and everyone who believes in me,” she shares. 

As she continues to push boundaries, Peteni is not only reshaping the fashion world but also redefining what it means to be a South African designer on the global stage. 

Her journey is a celebration of self-expression, perseverance and the power of believing in one’s calling. 

Through GuguByGugu, she is building a legacy that inspires, uplifts, and transforms. 

Looking ahead, Peteni hopes to expand her brand globally while maintaining its roots in South African culture. 

She envisions a future where African designers are celebrated, not just for their uniqueness, but for their contributions to the broader fashion narrative. 

For Peteni, the road to success has been anything but easy but her unwavering determination and authenticity have carved out a space for her voice to be heard. 

As she steps boldly into the new year, she carries with her the hopes and dreams of many young Africans inspired by her journey. 

At just 30, Peteni has already proved the world of fashion is a better world with her in it. Her story is a testament to the transformative power of creativity, resilience, and community support — a reminder that dreams, no matter how unconventional, are always worth pursuing.

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