I get manicures every month, and I prefer structured nails when I don't do extensions.
I spent $110 on a structured Gel-X set, which included soft builder gel, nail art, and cuticle oil.
I liked the low maintenance of this manicure, and it lasted four weeks.
For most of 2024, I tested several different types of manicures, from Japanese and Russian to intricately painted press-ons and at-home gel. By the end of the year, I was thrilled to be going back to basics with my go-to Chicago nail tech.
For this appointment, I opted for a $110 structured Gel-X manicure with some added artistic flair.
A structured manicure is similar to a regular gel set, except there's an extra layer of soft or hard gel to build up your natural nail before applying the polish. This layer creates an apex, making for a stronger foundation that lessens the likelihood of breakage.
With nail health and manicure longevity at the top of my priorities list, here's how it went.
It was nice to return to my usual nail artists.
After months of experimental manicures, I went back to my usual licensed nail tech, Teresa "Tere" Rodriguez, a Chicago-based artist who specializes in gel extensions and structured manicures.
I get manicures once a month, which can really put a gamble on my nail health. I adore long, heavily decorated nails, but those tend to be more damaging — especially when I break one.
Whenever I'm looking for a break from extensions, I opt for structured manicures to (hopefully) better protect my nail health.
Plus, I like that they typically last three to four weeks as opposed to the standard two to three.
The manicure prep followed a pretty simple process.
Based on Rodriguez's website options, I booked a "Tier 3 Extra Intermediate" appointment for 6:30 p.m. That level included charms, textures, and nail art.
Rodriguez started the appointment by prepping my nails and conducting cuticle care like any standard manicure.
Next came the builder gel.
Once the nails were prepped, Rodriguez followed up by applying a slip layer, which is a thin layer of builder gel. They then added a thicker layer of soft builder gel, which created a solid apex.
After the builder came a base layer of black gel polish.
I opted for a flashy gold design.
I sent Rodriguez inspiration images for my manicure a week before my appointment. The main theme was gold glamor with lots of gemstones.
Since I'm only working with the size of my actual nail beds (as opposed to longer extensions), I had to be picky about the size, shape, and color I wanted the gemstones to be.
Rodriguez got to work adding 3D effects and rubbing gold chrome on top of the black gel on each nail. They then hand-placed a gemstone on nearly every open spot and secured them by curing the gel under the lamp.
Before curing each nail, the tech made sure I was happy with the design, which I really appreciated.
The set took about two hours in total.
With prep work, builder gel, curing, and designing, I knew I was in for the long haul.
Rodriguez and I usually chat to pass the time during the appointment, but they also offer silent appointment options, where clients can listen to a podcast or watch a show instead of talking.
I like to be involved in the design process of each nail, which can be time-consuming, so I wasn't surprised when my phone read 8:30 p.m. as Rodriguez applied cuticle oil to my finished nails.
After four weeks, I thought my nails still looked pretty decent.
Overall, I enjoyed how low-maintenance this set was. Although I feel more confident with long nails, I took comfort in the fact that I didn't have to worry much about breakage.
After four weeks, my manicure was still holding up — with the exception of a few wayward gemstones, which can be chalked up to my hands-on lifestyle. Because of the gold base, the missing gems didn't put much of a dent in the overall aesthetic.
Luckily, I didn't think the grow-out was too bad, which ultimately saved me money because I could skip a mid-month appointment. However, I was really interested in the health of my nails under the gel.
When I got the set removed, my nails looked a little thin but not as flimsy as I anticipated.
I wouldn't use a structured gel manicure as a way to grow out my natural nails, but I think it's great for low-maintenance upkeep.