EDINBURGH – If you like having a cup of  coffee in an old world setting, enjoy history dating back to the Anglo-Saxon invasions (all that raping and looting) and a perverse fascination with the macabre, then, welcome to Edinburgh.

You’re right there in the middle of it all when you visit Holyrood House and can almost see the blood stains on the floor where Mary Queen of Scots’ companion, David Rizzio, was stabbed to death by five Scottish noblemen. For some reason, I have always been fascinated by Mary Queen of Scots, finding her story both violent and fiercely romantic, laced with power struggles between herself, the Scottish nobility and Queen Elizabeth II, all with the breathtaking backdrop of the Scottish landscape and that foreboding wind from the Highlands.

Dominating the city, of course, is the Edinburgh Castle, built to intimidate any warrior who is ordered up that hill surely to be met with a rain of arrows, canon fire and boulders. That is, if you can get past the moat. Well maybe I’ve been watching too many movies with Scottish heroes like William Wallace (Brave Heart, Mel Gibson) and Rob Roy MacGregor (Liam Neeson) and, of course, Macbeth. Macabre. 

I won’t pretend to present anything on Scottish history; too vast and colorful. You will have to do your own research there. Although, an hour tour of Mary King’s Close on the Royal Mile, can give you a good slice of life in 16^th century Edinburgh. 

The Royal Exchange (1571) needed a location on the Royal Mile and the government expropriated the Close, cutting off the top of the buildings and constructing the Royal Exchange on top of what remained of the Close houses. People moved out, but some slowly moved back and lived in this dark, dank extremely unsanitary labyrinth of tunnels and houses. Perfect conditions for The Edinburgh Plague of 1645 which killed up to 90,000 in the borough of Leith alone (a few kilometers from the city center).

Then there’s the sandstone. Apart from the Edinburgh Castle, sandstone was used in Holyrood House, the City Chambers and Parliament Square. But the whole city features this elegant stone, keeps the cold out, and in my opinion, also keeps the cold in.

Then you look up and see the spires, the gargoyles, the massive city walls, and fall in love all over again. Whipping wind and all.

What to wear?

Prepare to experience all four seasons in a day, as they say. And it’s true. Be ready for light rain, heavier rain and a blustery wind nudging you along the otherwise charming streets of Edinburgh.

If you’re lucky, you’ll be visiting in August and can enjoy the Edinburgh Fringe Art Festival — better known as The Fringe which has a dizzying choice of over 3,400 acts ranging from single act stand-up comedians in a small ‘theatre’ that can take about 20 people max or opera at the most impressive Festival Theater.

The Fringe was established in 1947 to lift the spirits of the Scottish citizenry after World War II (well, isn’t that nice of them? Would our government ever think of something like that?) 

Five theater acts were officially invited but more artists flocked to Edinburgh and set up their own performances around the fringe of the main festival and the name stuck.

My walks mainly revolved around the Royal Mile, which starts from the Edinburgh Castle, down through Holyrood with side streets lined with pubs, chic restaurants, and touristy shopping opportunities. Plus the Fringe performances as well as street musicians,  jugglers, and a lone bagpiper in his kilt.

After decades of running the festival, the Fringe has everything down to a tee. Ticket sales are easy on site (as long as the act of interest is not fully booked). There are booklets that have schedules, venues, etc., tourist help centers with actual persons you can talk to and yes Boomers prefer hard copies since the website offers 200 pages of information. 

Just outside one of the main venues called  the Underbelly, there is a food court with several food trucks, bars under tents that protect you from any kind of weather. Kiddie acts are offered in the daytime with shows catering to adult audiences in the evening

And yes, there is the rain and wind — my constant companion. Keep it tight. Wear a jacket that can take wind and rain. I never needed an umbrella. Pubs are a good enough cover. Keep your essentials in a sling bag, debit/credit cards and your phone; a lip balm is a must. Cash is almost useless since most outdoor venues don’t take cash — more efficient, less potential for theft (streetwise Filipino antennae is always up).

If you say, “It’s raining, I won’t go out,” you will never go out. Then, when you’ve just about had it, you detect some sunshine outside and decide, “OK, time for another 12,000 steps,” and you walk out and there’s blustery again and you say, (I can only say this in Filipino), Anuba!!! – Rappler.com

Bing Caballero returns to the literary scene after a long hiatus. She may be remembered for Ishmael Bernal’s Broken Marriage (Urian best screenplay with Jose Carreon) and her Palanca Award for Poetry Songs in Three Continents.